Here are a few pictures of Marks GT-40 as of this morning. Mark is away until Friaday so I thoght I would post a few pictures for him. Rich where did you get that picture of the spider section?
Ron
Ron
Mark Reid RCR-40 Build
- Thread starter MReid
- Start date
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Thank Rich, as you know I'm much better with a spray gun than my computer. Some day you will have to show me how you get the pictures full size.
Big foot you should see this thing in person, the picture dont do it justice
Big foot you should see this thing in person, the picture dont do it justice
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Hot damn, that looks freaking awesome!! I love the white stripe. It really makes the orange and blue pop!! Now, something has to be done with those wheels. The need to be either all black like Ron's car, or have black centers and polished lips.
Congrats Mark and to you too Ron. Excellent job!!!
Congrats Mark and to you too Ron. Excellent job!!!
Ron McCall
Supporter
That car looks INCREDIBLE!!!! I LOVE it! If you want to see how it looks with black BRMs, we can swap them out at Carlisle on Sunday before they get loaded up to see how you like it .
Ron McCall
Supporter
Mark,
What are you using for tires????
What are you using for tires????
In a marathon session, we did everything possible to get ready for Carlisle, but unlike Boyd and crew, didn't get it all done. We are failures!
Actually, I was never going to finish by Carlisle, just have enough to look respectable. The biggest win was that I fixed the oil problem! I'm a complete dumb a$$. You rarely have any pressure when YOU DON'T PUT OIL IN THE ENGINE!!! It now has 50lbs. with no apparent damage to the engine.
I also fixed the coolant leak, but found another one (damn coolant necks). Spent two hours fixing a fuel leak at one of the carbs. Could have been 20 minutes if I had my special stainless flairing tool with me.
Lots of little issues, but one big one. Both of my carbs have all four throttle plates drilled! It looks factory, but I never knew Holley to factory drill the plates. What gives??? I can't get my idle below 1800 rpm, so the car is undrivable. I will have to replace the plates after Carlisle. This is a bummer as I can't drive it on and off the trailer.
Anyway, I am dead tired, but ready for the trip tomorrow.
Actually, I was never going to finish by Carlisle, just have enough to look respectable. The biggest win was that I fixed the oil problem! I'm a complete dumb a$$. You rarely have any pressure when YOU DON'T PUT OIL IN THE ENGINE!!! It now has 50lbs. with no apparent damage to the engine.
I also fixed the coolant leak, but found another one (damn coolant necks). Spent two hours fixing a fuel leak at one of the carbs. Could have been 20 minutes if I had my special stainless flairing tool with me.
Lots of little issues, but one big one. Both of my carbs have all four throttle plates drilled! It looks factory, but I never knew Holley to factory drill the plates. What gives??? I can't get my idle below 1800 rpm, so the car is undrivable. I will have to replace the plates after Carlisle. This is a bummer as I can't drive it on and off the trailer.
Anyway, I am dead tired, but ready for the trip tomorrow.
Glad to hear you've got the oil pressure problem licked...
Some competition Holley's did come with pre-drilled throttle plates.
I'm presuming that you've closed the idle speed screws all the way and the cable/linkage is not hanging up anywhere..
As temporary measures to slow it down You could;
1) back off the distributor timing a little
2) Turn the idle fuel mixture screws all the way in so it will have to get its fuel from the main metering system
Have a great time! Take lotsa pics!!!
Some competition Holley's did come with pre-drilled throttle plates.
I'm presuming that you've closed the idle speed screws all the way and the cable/linkage is not hanging up anywhere..
As temporary measures to slow it down You could;
1) back off the distributor timing a little
2) Turn the idle fuel mixture screws all the way in so it will have to get its fuel from the main metering system
Have a great time! Take lotsa pics!!!
They do drill some plates from factory, usually for bigger capacity motors with big cams- find an A&P ---aircraft engineer & get him to fit airframe rivets in the holes- he can do it without removing throttle plates using a rivet squeezer if you remove the base plates.
Driving cars on to trailers kills clutches
I would suggest you buy a winch.
Driving cars on to trailers kills clutches
I would suggest you buy a winch.Good call,Big-Foot, on what to do.That's exactly what we tried-spent a lot of time with adjustments making sure all the plates seated fully,retarded the timing,leaned down the carbs ,plugged off the pcv hoses,and it only made a barely noticeable change.It runs just like there was a major air leak.One good thing is that, initially, Mark did have some oil going to the engine. There was only a small amount in the pan but at least enough to give everything a good shot of lubricant befroe cavitation.Would be interesting to see if anyone has a 390cfm street Holley to compare throttle plates(drilled/not drilled).And for the record,the car looks SPECTACULAR. You just have to see this in person to appreciate the color scheme. Good Luck this weekend Mark.
Hi Mark / Al
Cross posting this from the ffcobra forum where Mark had also asked for help -
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If these are the RACE 390 Holleys - that would explain a lot - particularly about the drilling.. The race 390s like the 80507 are jetted / orificed for a restrictor plate racing engine - just one of those carbs would see to the needs of a 700+ HP engine.
You can tame them down but it's going to take some jet changes and air-bleed tuning to get there. I would probably start just with Jets by taking each of the 4 corners down to something on the order of a #50.. The Air-Bleeds - well they're going to take a lot of fine tuning to get where you want them to be.
The good thing is that once you get these babies to where they need to be, you'll be pretty well set for the long haul. Hey - I've got 4 Webers I'm going to have to tune!!!!
Some reference;
Holley Performance Carburetors, Fuel Injection, and Fuel Pumps
Also - You can seal up the idle "helper holes" by using a pencil type butane torch and silver-solder that's used by HVAC folks. Make sure that the carb's base-plate is removed from the throttle body and dry (no fuel)...
Cross posting this from the ffcobra forum where Mark had also asked for help -
-----
If these are the RACE 390 Holleys - that would explain a lot - particularly about the drilling.. The race 390s like the 80507 are jetted / orificed for a restrictor plate racing engine - just one of those carbs would see to the needs of a 700+ HP engine.
You can tame them down but it's going to take some jet changes and air-bleed tuning to get there. I would probably start just with Jets by taking each of the 4 corners down to something on the order of a #50.. The Air-Bleeds - well they're going to take a lot of fine tuning to get where you want them to be.
The good thing is that once you get these babies to where they need to be, you'll be pretty well set for the long haul. Hey - I've got 4 Webers I'm going to have to tune!!!!
Some reference;
Holley Performance Carburetors, Fuel Injection, and Fuel Pumps
Also - You can seal up the idle "helper holes" by using a pencil type butane torch and silver-solder that's used by HVAC folks. Make sure that the carb's base-plate is removed from the throttle body and dry (no fuel)...
Thanks for the info,Randy. Yes,Mark indicated these were competition carbs so that may be reason for the runaway idle.I mentioned to him that we could close up the holes in that manner.I was against using a mechanical means as should it dislodge,the pieces would be ingested and the results not pretty.:furious: Mark will have some time after Carlisle to sort this out.Again,thanks for your input.
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I had two holes drilled into one of my Webers plates and was advised to rough up the area around the hole with fine sandpaper and use fast setting epoxy(the kind that comes in the stick) Put a small piece on each side of the hole and squeeze together, trim excess before it hardens. It runs flawlesly now and if a piece should come loose (unlikely) it will not harm the internals since it is not that hard.
As the screws attaching the throttle plates to the shaft are factory loctited be very careful if using a torch to fill those holes.
Given that these carbs have staged secondarys rather than one to one & the adaptor plate is relatively thin, the primarys are going to favour the two cylinders directly beneath them,may be able to acheive a respectable idle, but then the differential throttle opening will result in uneven mixture distribution until its at WOT. If the adaptor plate's are 4 hole item's its an even bigger can of worms.
Given that these carbs have staged secondarys rather than one to one & the adaptor plate is relatively thin, the primarys are going to favour the two cylinders directly beneath them,may be able to acheive a respectable idle, but then the differential throttle opening will result in uneven mixture distribution until its at WOT. If the adaptor plate's are 4 hole item's its an even bigger can of worms.
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