Michael's GT-R Build

[Rufus C Mathews Jr]

Mike--I raised the front of the spider with 1" spacers. There are three spacers one on both sides and on in the middle.This was to get the windshield to fit better and allowed more room for the wiper. My dash is in so I can't give you a picture from the inside. Before you anchor down the spider you best try and fit the windshield. My wiper motor sits like Steve's except 180 degrees opposite. I ran a brace similar to what Steve has done. I took pictures front the outside of the wiper position and the spacer under the front of the spider. Hope this helps

 

[Rufus C Mathews Jr]

The arm that cam with the car is adjustable in length. At least mine was.

 

[Michael Hampson]

Got it. Less trouble than I thought.

 

[Paul]

Clean

 

[Michael Hampson]

Got the hand brake installed where I want it. Had a little trouble with the welder so the welds are a little ugly. Of course by "the welder" I mean me. On to the shifter cables next.

 

[Michael Hampson]

Can someone help out and tell me what I need to do to get the shift cable in the photo attached to the shifter arm? the ball has to come off (screwed on, pressed on?) and replaced with a stud (off the shelf or fabbed?). Or replace the rod end style with the proper end? Since this has been done before I think it's probably not too difficult, but I don't want to screw something up or make it harder than it needs to be.

 

[Neil]

Does that ball stud unscrew? If so, just replace it with an appropriate bolt through the rod end bearing. A washer under the rod end might be needed to keep it from interfering with the cast shift lever.

 

[Tom]

I think you also need to examine the length of your shift cable, or the anchor point - the wiper seal is very close to the threads. When you actuate the shift lever, it's likely the threads will traverse the seal and start tearing it up, probably not what you want in the engine compartment where there is heat, dust etc. Unless the TX is currently in gear...

 

[Michael Hampson]

Does that ball stud unscrew? If so, just replace it with an appropriate bolt through the rod end bearing. A washer under the rod end might be needed to keep it from interfering with the cast shift lever.

I did try to unscrew it, unsuccessfully. I didn't try really hard - I thought I'd ask the gurus first!

 

[Michael Hampson]

I think you also need to examine the length of your shift cable, or the anchor point - the wiper seal is very close to the threads. When you actuate the shift lever, it's likely the threads will traverse the seal and start tearing it up, probably not what you want in the engine compartment where there is heat, dust etc. Unless the TX is currently in gear...

Yeah, I think it's in gear.

 

[Rufus C Mathews Jr]

Probably at this point it would be easiest to change the to a ball end. Mine came with a pin with a keeper on top and the hiem joint slipped over it .

 

[Michael Hampson]

Qty (1) 13mm Stainless Steel Ball Socket End M6x1.0 Thread, 25mm .866" High

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[Michael Hampson]

This is where the shifter will go. Been on order since February.

 

[Michael Hampson]

Hood hinges are installed and working! Very cool!

I might go with a different hood support though... A little worried about rot.

Just a word of warning. The hood "relaxed" a little over time after I cut it out, and I failed to check the arch across the front before I bonded that support bar in. I am going to have to cut that and squeeze the snorkels together a little and re-bond, because there isn't quite enough bow in the hood now. It's a little low in the center when the hood is lowered.

 

[Rufus C Mathews Jr]

Way to go Mike

 

[Michael Hampson]

Made a router template for recessing the tank filler into the fender. Had to add about 1/4" of fiberglass on the inside, as the depth of the inset is nearly 1/4"

 

[Rufus C Mathews Jr]

Good job. Exactly what I did.

 

[Michael Hampson]

Good job. Exactly what I did.

I must have done it right, then!

 

[Michael Hampson]

I wouldn't mind an opinion or two here. I know that these builds are all about what we want to do and not about what other people want to see, but sometimes it's easy to get tunnel vision... and getting some more eyes on a potential issue can help a lot! So, as an engineer, I like right angles and straight lines, but I was thinking that the filler neck might be better angled down to the tank instead of horizontally across then straight down. Or maybe I didn't have another elbow and this was my excuse. I'm not sure anymore. So what do you guys think of that 45 degree aluminum tubing running down to the tank and spoiling all my 90 degree angles? Be honest now...

I did verify the hood will fit with the pipe in there.

 

[Alan P]

As you know, I share your OCD-ness, but that looks just fine like it is and makes the most sense because that will ensure the best flow when filling the tank and not have to worry about it backing up and overflowing. 45s are almost as good as 90s anyway.