Michael's GT-R Build

Not only does it make sense; it's GENUIS!! I seriously can't believe I've never thought of this lol. Thank you for the walkthrough, seriously!

Hi Gabriel;

This was a brilliant idea from H Craft Customs that I followed.

I first used a 1/8" blade on my angle grinder to make slots for the tabs in the aluminum pieces exactly on the cut line. See the attached pic. Then the pieces slid into place and I taped them to each other with aluminum tape. I waxed the pieces thoroughly and glassed up both sides of the aluminum pieces. Probably put 10 layers of alternating matt and cloth on each side. The result is that the two flanges of fiberglass are exactly 1/8 apart all the way around.

Then I broke the aluminum pieces loose from the glass using a soft mallet and a thin putty knife, and pulled them out, leaving the gap.

Finally, I got a thin kerf grinding disc on the angle grinder and cut the rest of the hood out. Then sanded all of the edges with a flap disc.

Does that make sense? So the tabs on the aluminum pieces slot into the hood and perfectly align the location of the two glass flanges and the resultant gap between the two.

Doing it this way ensures that the gaps are perfect. Cutting the hood out and then adding flanges after the fact would be way more difficult to do and retain alignment.View attachment 100804
 

Michael Hampson

Supporter
It was a bit of a challenge for a non-fabricator, but I didn't like the way that the roll cage was so far from the A-pillar which would prevent me from hiding it under some trim pieces, so I replaced the front section of the roll cages. I bought a bender from JD2 and also used it for the coolant piping. It only took one try but was really a chore for me, trying to get the bends just right weld upside down and sideways. Done!

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Michael Hampson

Supporter
Got the location of the spider locked in place I think, so now fitting the doors. This really worked out well. Before, the location of the hinges on the door itself were vastly different, and the spacing of the hinge plates on the jambs also positioned very different to make the doors fit. With the spider better positioned, and the hinges positioned consistently on the doors, the doors are positioned very symmetrically on the tub.

First, I made metal packing plates for inside the door to strengthen the door. I made the plates, then made a somewhat larger plastic version that I used to mash a bunch of Bondo hair inside the door, creating a flat surface for the plate. Now the plate, onto which mounts the two hinges, has a place to rest and can move around a little due to enlarged holes. Also, with just one plate for both hinge pieces, alignment to the door jamb hinge plate is easier.

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The doors aligned really well after some work. The hinge plates had nice 1/4-20 holes for getting the alignment right. I will remove them and replace with an appropriately sized plate (looks like 3/8 flat bar will work just fine for both sides).

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Michael Hampson

Supporter
I've been working hard on a couple of things. Mainly, body alignment. When I got the front clip where I wanted it, I made some plates for inside the fender at the A pillar. This had a huge effect on rigidity. I attached the plate to the tub with 1/4-20 bolts, and bonded pieces of 1"x1" fiberglass angle to the fender to bolt the plate to. I think it turned out great, and plenty strong. Now onto final door alignment, then rear clip. Need some rear hinges soon.
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Michael Hampson

Supporter
Test fitting the engine. I wanted some vibration damping between the engine and chassis, like H, so came up with a modification to the front mounting crossmember. I need to figure out something to do on the transmission side to eliminate that rigid mount too. I haven't installed the rear engine mounts yet, and I'm not entirely sure that I will. If I do, then I have to figure something out there too to eliminate the rigid mount.

It feels really good to get the engine installed, even if it is not permanent. Progress is so slow that something like this feels like a big accomplishment.
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Michael Hampson

Supporter
Thanks!

Now that the engine (almost fit), I removed my nicely painted mount, cut 1/2" off of it, and am welding it back up again. Looks like that 1/2" was enough so that the CJ intake was going to hit the rear glass. It will fit now, and the bottom of the oil pan is as low as it can go.

Measure twice, cut-weld-paint once...I'll learn eventually.
 
Thanks!

Now that the engine (almost fit), I removed my nicely painted mount, cut 1/2" off of it, and am welding it back up again. Looks like that 1/2" was enough so that the CJ intake was going to hit the rear glass. It will fit now, and the bottom of the oil pan is as low as it can go.

Measure twice, cut-weld-paint once...I'll learn eventually.
Yes, the stock Aluminator pan is terribly tall, Ron, Rufus and myself used a moroso pan and dropped the engine around 3 1/2"
 

Michael Hampson

Supporter
Yes. See, it's got me so upset that it won't fit that I can't even identify parts correctly! :) Spider, yes!

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I don't know where the hole needs to go, but it would have to be pretty high up in that "vee" to be able to get it under there and through the hole. Rufus, can you take a pic of where yours is located?
 

Steven Lobel

Supporter
Loosen the bolts on the front of the spider. Drill the hole in the center of the spider section. This allows the gear of the wiper motor to slide in and you can lift and wiggle the spider to get the motor in place so you can fab up brackets.
 

Michael Hampson

Supporter
It looks like the hole is pretty far up in the "vee", i.e. closer to the windshield, than I thought. I'll get a wiper tomorrow and will be able to more accurately see where the hole needs to be to get the wiper sweep in the right place. Thanks for your help Steve.
 
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