My SL-Razor has arrived...
- Thread starter ViperJustin
- Start date
It sounds like the throttle position sensor...
Paul Thompson 'Hooligan'
Admin
Agreed - throttle sensor could give problems but still not sure how that alone would rev it to the limiter with throttle fully closed, the air required has to come from somewhere..
I had this same thing happen when I adjusted the throttle cable on my car. I was trying to take out all the slack. I didn't realize that I had dialed in 1-2% input at the TPS, which for me is on the linkage (Kinsler stack EFI). When I started the car, it just revved like there was no tomorrow. Scared the crap out of me. Took quite a while to figure it out. Once I completely let out the cable, no issues.
It was shocking how fast and high it would rev with that little throttle input. In fact, while checking over everything, logging into the ECU I could see the base throttle input was like 2%. And I just thought there was no way that could be doing it.... wrong!
New findings...
I checked all of the connections today. I had to cut out a piece of the firewall to gain access to the intake plumbing where one of the map sensors is. Anyways, after going through all of the electrical connections and tightening all of plumbing, sensor ports, etc, I fired her up.
Hang on for this...
The sun has set and there are shop lights hanging all over my car. My GF calls it the alien ship. Then I turn it over.
It runs exactly the same except I notice something...
There is exhaust coming out from the area of the turbo. I never noticed this before since it was either daylight out or the garage wasn't lit up like it was tonight. So after investigating the area, there's only two bolts tightly holding the turbo onto the exhaust header. When I put pressure onto the turbo, I can see it move about a millimeter, maybe two.
So all of those codes kind of make sense. Hopefully, this solves a majority, if not all the problems I've been having.
Fingers are crossed!!!!
Time to pack for my GF and my vacation to the carribean.
I checked all of the connections today. I had to cut out a piece of the firewall to gain access to the intake plumbing where one of the map sensors is. Anyways, after going through all of the electrical connections and tightening all of plumbing, sensor ports, etc, I fired her up.
Hang on for this...
The sun has set and there are shop lights hanging all over my car. My GF calls it the alien ship. Then I turn it over.
It runs exactly the same except I notice something...
There is exhaust coming out from the area of the turbo. I never noticed this before since it was either daylight out or the garage wasn't lit up like it was tonight. So after investigating the area, there's only two bolts tightly holding the turbo onto the exhaust header. When I put pressure onto the turbo, I can see it move about a millimeter, maybe two.
So all of those codes kind of make sense. Hopefully, this solves a majority, if not all the problems I've been having.
Fingers are crossed!!!!
Time to pack for my GF and my vacation to the carribean.
That is going to solve many of your issues and will certainly liven her back up....the car that is not the girlfriend and the vacation...although it may work for her too...
Have fun.
Have fun.
I've been working on the car the last couple of nights. It's like an intricate puzzle trying to figure out how to get access to one bolt or another. Exhaust is off, coolant tubes going into the turbo are off, the turbo bracket is off, and finally, got the turbo off.
I pulled it off to discover that only half of the gasket between the header and turbo is there. I completely blew the other half off. That would explain why I'm only getting 8 pounds of boost when I should be getting more than twice that. Also, there's always been little droplets of oil back there and at the time, couldn't figure out where it was coming from.
Anyways, I'm off to the autozone to see if they have a replacement gasket.
I pulled it off to discover that only half of the gasket between the header and turbo is there. I completely blew the other half off. That would explain why I'm only getting 8 pounds of boost when I should be getting more than twice that. Also, there's always been little droplets of oil back there and at the time, couldn't figure out where it was coming from.
Anyways, I'm off to the autozone to see if they have a replacement gasket.
Wouldn't getting the gasket straight from the OEM make more sense than AutoZone?
I just got done putting the new gasket in. Only took me thirty minutes and that includes beer breaks. Anyways, I tightened everything down to spec and fired her up. It sounded better than it ever has. However, I think a spark plug is shot (or something connected to it). When the engine idles, it skips and sputters. But when I give it a little throttle, it sounds fine. Also, a lot of exhaust fumes are blowing out of the exhaust at any rpm.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
I'm going to check the plugs next.
So what does it sound like? For those of you that have heard my car before, you'll remember that it had a very raspy exhaust note. Now, it's like a really deep purring. I still don't know if this has fixed the turbo pressure problem, but it no longer revs on it's own. So that's good.
Well, until next time, happy motoring.
Note: I used an oem unit.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
I'm going to check the plugs next.
So what does it sound like? For those of you that have heard my car before, you'll remember that it had a very raspy exhaust note. Now, it's like a really deep purring. I still don't know if this has fixed the turbo pressure problem, but it no longer revs on it's own. So that's good.
Well, until next time, happy motoring.
Note: I used an oem unit.
So I switched out the map sensor and viola, no more "low boost code". However, I still need to switch out the inlet air temperature sensor on the cold side of the intercooler. And I may need to switch out one other sensor.
How did it drive?
For the first time ever, I felt the turbo boost unlike anything I've ever driven before. It felt like riding on the world's biggest slingshot. This is the first time I've driven the car in third gear and it would lay rubber at will. So this thing has turned into a whole new beast. But it still needs tuning.
Stay tuned...
How did it drive?
For the first time ever, I felt the turbo boost unlike anything I've ever driven before. It felt like riding on the world's biggest slingshot. This is the first time I've driven the car in third gear and it would lay rubber at will. So this thing has turned into a whole new beast. But it still needs tuning.
Stay tuned...
Well....... Fuck me runnin'!
I replaced nearly every sensor in the car and it's still throwing codes. At least it isn't idling roughly or revving freely to the moon. Anyways, I'm pretty much running out of ideas at this point. The only thing left is to check all of the electrical connections again. These LNFs are notoriously fussy and I'm feeling the wrath of that!!!
I took it out for multiple test runs and about 20% of the time it would spool to full pressure. All the other times, it would just roll "normally aspirated". All of the plumbing has been checked and checked again. I just don't know any more!
At least it's drivable and at times, wicked fast. It does feel like it's getting more turbo pressure than normal, but just not nearly to it's full potential. Maybe it's time to take another break from it and let it sit again. I'm out of ideas.
Note:
You might be wondering why I switched out the last sensor when it was working well yesterday? Well, I can't have the car tuned properly when the sensors aren't reading correctly. And the car wasn't running 100%. But it had boost much more often than it does now.
Anyways...
Gonna talk to Vince from trifecta performance (LNF expert) to see what he says.
I replaced nearly every sensor in the car and it's still throwing codes. At least it isn't idling roughly or revving freely to the moon. Anyways, I'm pretty much running out of ideas at this point. The only thing left is to check all of the electrical connections again. These LNFs are notoriously fussy and I'm feeling the wrath of that!!!
I took it out for multiple test runs and about 20% of the time it would spool to full pressure. All the other times, it would just roll "normally aspirated". All of the plumbing has been checked and checked again. I just don't know any more!
At least it's drivable and at times, wicked fast. It does feel like it's getting more turbo pressure than normal, but just not nearly to it's full potential. Maybe it's time to take another break from it and let it sit again. I'm out of ideas.
Note:
You might be wondering why I switched out the last sensor when it was working well yesterday? Well, I can't have the car tuned properly when the sensors aren't reading correctly. And the car wasn't running 100%. But it had boost much more often than it does now.
Anyways...
Gonna talk to Vince from trifecta performance (LNF expert) to see what he says.
I've often thought the SLR would go quite nicely with the Honda VTEC V-6 and automatic transmission out of my Accord in the back....no need for a turbo, just punch the throttle and hold on for that RUSH when the VTEC function kicks in!
I enjoy hearing about your SLR, Justin, please keep posting about it.
Cheers!
Doug
I enjoy hearing about your SLR, Justin, please keep posting about it.
Cheers!
Doug
BADoug, from exocars, has an SLR with a K20. It sounds amazing at 8000+ rpm. I'm not sure if the Honda V6 would fit into the SLR chassis (assuming it's the 3.5L). Anytime I think about a V6 in an SLR, the VW VR6 comes to mind.
It's nice to know there's people following along in my adventures with this car. I've had some ups and downs with it, but I get re-inspired to keep going when I read these boards.
It's nice to know there's people following along in my adventures with this car. I've had some ups and downs with it, but I get re-inspired to keep going when I read these boards.
Paul Thompson 'Hooligan'
Admin
So what codes is it showing? same each time? after what period of time assuming you reset them?
I've isolated it down to the IAT2 sensor on the cold side of the intercooler. The mounting points for the sensor are aluminum and unfortunately, the holes are mostly stripped out. So I imagine air is escaping out of that area. I'm going to take it in to a shop that can tig weld aluminum and see if they can fix the issue.
And/or...
The wiring connection there is bad.
And/or...
The wiring connection there is bad.
Anyone know where a guy can have a custom made intake pipe made?
I found the problem. There's a small block of aluminum (3/4" by 3" long by 1/2" thick) that is welded onto the intake pipe that holds the inlet air temp sensor and a vacuum hose. The drilled holes that are in the block to secure the sensor are all the way through the block (not the pipe). Anyways, air that is getting around the sensor goes between the block and the pipe and is escaping through the screws (the stripped one) so essentially, there's an air leak there.
That explains why I'm getting the exact same codes for a brand new sensor (incorrect reading error).
This whole time, I knew there was a problem there cause I'd fiddle with it when the car was idling, and it would sputter and stuff. Well, gotta figure out how to make a good seal. Any ideas????????????????
I found the problem. There's a small block of aluminum (3/4" by 3" long by 1/2" thick) that is welded onto the intake pipe that holds the inlet air temp sensor and a vacuum hose. The drilled holes that are in the block to secure the sensor are all the way through the block (not the pipe). Anyways, air that is getting around the sensor goes between the block and the pipe and is escaping through the screws (the stripped one) so essentially, there's an air leak there.
That explains why I'm getting the exact same codes for a brand new sensor (incorrect reading error).
This whole time, I knew there was a problem there cause I'd fiddle with it when the car was idling, and it would sputter and stuff. Well, gotta figure out how to make a good seal. Any ideas????????????????