My SL-Razor has arrived...

Doug S.

The protoplasm may be 72, but the spirit is 32!
Lifetime Supporter
How about a helicoil?

Or some J-B weld?

Or even some silicone....if all you have to do is stop an air leak around a loose screw/bolt, it shouldn't require a new plate.

When I strip out a screw hole in wood I stuff the hole full of steel-wool and put the screw back in....problem solved.

Perhaps a rubber o-ring around the shank of the screw, under the head of the screw, or a small flat rubber washer, like a repair washer for a kitchen sink?

Lots of ideas....it might be than none of them will work. How about a photo?

Cheers!

Doug
 
You should be able to drill and tap it a little larger. I'd use some sealant when putting it back together too. We're waiting for more videos :)
 
After a couple hours worth of work (materials drying), I think I got this thing running right. I got a stripped thread repair kit, sensor safe sealant, new screws one size larger, and some clamps to reassure the sensor is on tight.

I took my first test run and everything seems to be running well. It still trips a code to go into limp mode, but Vince from Trifecta said it would do that from time to time since he hasn't written the new tune for the car yet. So yup, I got the turbo back and I Jeremy Clarksoned (mouth wide open catching air at the top of fourth gear)!

Just waiting for the tune now...
 
Congrats Justin,
Thanks for dropping by and hanging out with us a little while. Sorry I didn't end up with enough time today to witness your car in it's full glory in person. I took one of the guys out to the LV Motorsports Complex and we sort of stumbled on all kinds of racing action (and we got it all for free!). It might be a good thing that I didn't have more time as I probably would have found myself taking part in the program that 'Exotic Racing' puts on there. There were Ferraris, Lambos, Astons all for rent to lap around the track. If my flight left later I'm sure my credit cards would be a molten pile of smelly plastic right now :knife:.
 
It was nice catching up with you again. And thanks for the advice at the show. I can't wait to see your car when it's complete! Those pics you showed me were amazing. I really like what you've done with the body.

During my test runs today, I topped out in fourth gear (0-130+ under 15 seconds). This car is going to get me in trouble!!!
 
That's what the road course next to Nellis is for....to keep young young men of all ages out of the klink!
 
That's what the road course next to Nellis is for....to keep young young men of all ages out of the klink!

I've done many motorcycle track days there on the HP2, but I haven't been able to drive it.........

And of course, there's Spring Mountain Motorsports Ranch just 45 miles away. That's a really technical track. Just thinking about what the difference would have been if I were running a 300hp car versus 130-140 like I was.... I was already faster than spec Miatas on slicks. And my alignment was horse crap during that time..... Next summer, I'm going back for vengeance!

Edit: And I beat a decently driven Corvette ZR1 at an autocross. (This was after my alignment. But still only running 130 hp...)
 
I just can't get this thing sorted. I've replaced sensors, the wiring harness on the engine, gaskets and tightened all of the intake plumbing (AGAIN). It runs like a loose gorilla at a zoo about half the time. The other half, it runs like a sloth. I'm basically saying "F" it at this point and just "run what I got"....

I'm extremely disappointed. I just don't know what to do at this point!
 
I just can't get this thing sorted. I've replaced sensors, the wiring harness on the engine, gaskets and tightened all of the intake plumbing (AGAIN). It runs like a loose gorilla at a zoo about half the time. The other half, it runs like a sloth. I'm basically saying "F" it at this point and just "run what I got"....

I'm extremely disappointed. I just don't know what to do at this point!


Hey Justin,
I just picked up one of these LNF motors and CBM Custom Built Motors has made a standalone wiring harness for this motor. They have my motor right now and hooking it all up for me right now.
I will let you know how everything turns out....It is going in an offroad car that I built.

The guy you need to take to is Chris....but he is in Dubai right now and he will be back on the 20th.......He is saying he can get 350hp out of this motor
This is their website CBM Motorsports - Custom Built Motors - Offroad, Marine, and Hot Rod Engines
lnf ecotec 2.0 turbo CBM Motorsports runstand - YouTube
 
I just can't get this thing sorted. I've replaced sensors, the wiring harness on the engine, gaskets and tightened all of the intake plumbing (AGAIN). It runs like a loose gorilla at a zoo about half the time. The other half, it runs like a sloth. I'm basically saying "F" it at this point and just "run what I got"....

I'm extremely disappointed. I just don't know what to do at this point!

Ok - let's assume you did all of that right, because it's your second time, and you were probably being careful.

I don't know if this will help, but:
1) If the engine were on a dyno, and revved at constant 4K, and you unplugged one spark plug at a time the power output drop s/b the same across all cylinders. This would eliminate an odd mechanical issue in a single cylinder.
2) Are you sure the spark is healthy, and it arrives at the right time per cylinder, i.e. no coil or timing issue?

That's all I can think of; good luck.
 

Doug S.

The protoplasm may be 72, but the spirit is 32!
Lifetime Supporter
I just can't get this thing sorted. I've replaced sensors, the wiring harness on the engine, gaskets and tightened all of the intake plumbing (AGAIN). It runs like a loose gorilla at a zoo about half the time. The other half, it runs like a sloth. I'm basically saying "F" it at this point and just "run what I got"....

I'm extremely disappointed. I just don't know what to do at this point!

It's sounding more and more like an ECU problem to me....check the grounds. I found out that the reason the fuel gauge on my Cobra was not registering was that the ground wire had come loose from the sending unit. Strange thing...once the ground wire was back on the sending unit, the alternator started putting out more volts.

Go figger......

Cheers!

Doug
 
I'd guess that it's a fuel supply issue, but you don't tend to fix these things by guessing :(. A systematic approach will get it, although being intermittent adds to the "fun".

Narrowing it down to a global (fuel pump, ECU, sensors etc) or cylinder-local (spark plug, coil, injector, valves) issue would be a very good start. I'd also try to find a better way to check for leaks in the intake and exhaust. For example, can you stall the engine by blocking the exhaust pipe?

Good luck - you'll get it fixed (or sell it to me at a knock-down price ;)).
 
As far as I can tell, the problem is still the inlet air temp on the cold side of the intercooler. Anytime I jiggle the intake tubes, the idle drops a couple hundred rpm and it idles rough. So I'm thinking air is still getting in (or out) or there's something wrong with the wiring in that area. Either way, the problem area has been (and still is) isolated. I checked all of the plugs for spark, exhaust leaks, ground wires, etc. So I think the IAT2 sensor mount is just messed up. Or there's a wiring issue.

I'll dig into it later today or tomorrow.
 
Question of the day:

The turbo has a 2" (or so-I'll measure it tomorrow) "pressure" side. The plumbing that goes to the intercooler, then to the intake plenum, are all 3" in diameter. Right now I'm producing 8-10 psi. Do you guys think that the larger diameter tubes are requiring more air, and therefore, taking away the potential pressure that the turbo should be making?

Btw, the turbo should be producing 15-21 psi.
 
My guess is that if it is not building boost properly you either have an exhaust leak on the hot side or on the compressor side (the cold side) through the intercooler to the engine intake.

If the engine management system controls boost then the problem could be here as well.

Hope you get this bad boy straightened out.
 
Have you tried the really soapy water test? If you suspect a leak on a positive pressure area, try applying a good lathering of soapy water over the area while generating boost and see if it blows bubbles (identifying the leak) when on the gas. Of course if it's to an exhaust side you will need to do this right at start up so the piping isnt HOT.

What U think?
 
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Question of the day:

The turbo has a 2" (or so-I'll measure it tomorrow) "pressure" side. The plumbing that goes to the intercooler, then to the intake plenum, are all 3" in diameter. Right now I'm producing 8-10 psi. Do you guys think that the larger diameter tubes are requiring more air, and therefore, taking away the potential pressure that the turbo should be making?

Btw, the turbo should be producing 15-21 psi.

No. If anything, the wider diameter should boost the pressure, as the air will be moving more slowly for the same mass flow rate. A 2" outlet seems a little small for 300+ hp, 3" seems more typical for that sort of power range.
 
The tubing size difference will only affect your charge time, not turbo lag. Depending on your ic core size and shape, you may see a few pounds in pressure drop from pre to post ic, but not enough to cause the issues you are having.

As someone else just mentioned, you most likely have a boost leak somewhere in the system. You can have the ic pressure tested because sometimes they are the culprit. Otherwise, any of the connections may be leaking, backside of the compressor side of the turbo, intake manifold gaskets, bad tb etc.

The exhaust side may also have leaks in it that contribute to the problem. Check the exhaust manifold gasket, turbo flange gasket, and the turbine housing itself. If any of those leak, you may see lower boost, if any.

Stuck wastegates are also a common problem. Not sure if yours is internal or external, but it is definitely worth checking into.

The boost control solenoid as someone else mentioned may also be a problem. Also, make sure all of your vacuum hoses are of adequate size with no cracks and are not too long, especially those that go to the wastegate and boost control solenoid.
 
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