Need cooling help please

Thanks for the tip! I need to find a deeper socket and I have a 90 degree impact tool coming in if this doesn't work. Man that area is tight.

The next challenge will be trying to get a pulley puller in there...
Mike, you’re a brave soul. I recently faced the same notion of trying to remove the balancer in the car and decided it made more sense to just pull the motor and do it on an engine stand given everything else that has to be accomplished working in awkward positions. It may be doable, but I think it doesn’t buy you much in expended effort overall.

In my case, there was significant opportunity to correct other issues with the motor out, so that factored into it.
Thanks Michael! Having a lift is a definite plus - being able to attack from top and bottom. Luckily I am one year after major shoulder surgery and the arm works about 90 percent!

Plan B is to "repair" the existing timing cover in situ. If that doesn't work, then Plan C is to trailer it to an expert...if I can find one in this rural area. I don't have the heart to take an engine removal on and have too many other things gong on.
I tried the top gear and ebrake with a reaker bar and it wouldn't budge. I do have a 90 degree impact driver coming this weekend. My goal is to get the damper off before I travel for a month...early next week. I would then buy everything I think I need for my return.

Fingers and toes are crossed...
A lift is certainly better than laying on your back…

Honestly, given your circumstances, I’d give the in-situ repair a try before anything else. What have you got to lose?
A lift is certainly better than laying on your back…

Honestly, given your circumstances, I’d give the in-situ repair a try before anything else. What have you got to lose?
Agree that the repair is worth a try. I'm not optimistic you're going to get the balancer off and back on with SPF clearance. Also towing the car and having the engine removed is way more complicated.
Okay, a successful few hours. I got the harmonic damper off and the fuel pump and the remainder of the timing cover bolts. The timing cover looks pinched by the oil sump. So it looks to me I need to drain the oil, remove the sump and then the timing cover comes off. Do I have that right?

The 90 degree impact barely fit, but it worked. I didn't remove the bolt completely but just loosened it. Then I installed my modified pulley removal tool and worked the damper until it hit the bolt and repeated about 10 of these cycles of loosening the main damper bolt, installing the modified pulley and pulling the damper. The two pulley removal bolts only needed to be hand snugged each time. It all was a pretty simple process. I think the damper had to be pulled a good 3/4 inch (or more) out using this method until it became free.

The simple pulley removal tool was "modified" by replacing the long main threaded rod with a 60mm long bolt (M16x1.50). I found a small bushing to extend this bolt and have it sit against the main damper bolt head. Blue tape held the bushing to the puller tool bolt. I also reversed the orientation of puller as it flare in thickness at the center...this side was put in the damper void to by another 1/4" clearance between the tool and the bulkhead. All I can say is that it all worked.

David Garton

Mike, Remove only the two bolts on each side of the sump to timing cover and start prying near the top of the cover. I always reuse the rubber half moon that is in the timing cover as it will make it easier to install the new timing cover. Once the old timing cover is removed cut the old pan gasket flush with the face of the block. Cut your new pan gasket to match the bottom of the timing cover. Use 3M weather strip adhesive to glue the used half moon rubber into the timing cover and then the corners of the new pan gasket to the cover. Wait for the glue to dry and then add a dab of silicane sealer to the face of block where the timing cover will meet and take two Philips screw drivers to go through the cover into the bolt holes on the block face applying downward pressure and seat the cover to the block. Make sure the alignment dowl sleeves stay in the block and not in the back of the old cover. This should work for you. Good job !
Wow, thanks for the detailed roadmap! I will refer to it when I get back to it in a month or so. I did pry the top of the timing cover loose, but it seemed pinched on the lower edge...maybe it was adhered there and I just to work it some more.
I was heeding Brian K's advise and looking at the main hose connections...I am thinking 18 years was a good run and "while I am in there...". What are preferred sources for such pieces? Are there "kits" for these things? Do I need to measure each one and source individually?

Brian Kissel

Staff member
Lifetime Supporter
Mike, there might be some kits out there, but personally I would take my hoses in and get what you know currently fits. Might save you from getting hoses in a kit that don’t quite fit.

Regards Brian
So I ordered a timing cover while I am away. It got delivered today. The cover was placed in a smallish box with no padding. It bounced around during shipment and poked a hole in the box. It also took a hit and rolled a lip on a sealing surface. Time to return and try again.
Don't you love that?

I once bought a HEAVY home HiFi amplifier. The shipper put it in a box full of peanuts. By the time the package made it through UPS's system, it was a round ball of tape, the peanuts were all pulverized to what looked like fake snow, and every corner of the amp was crushed and destroyed to the point the big transformer was rattling around inside the case wrecking every other component. Honestly can't blame UPS on this one.
Luckily the seller has been great and it is being returned...packaged better.

I am finding it hard to get a decent timing many disappointing reviews of products. Not one stands out. Many vendors are selling the same parts. This was one of those, and, besides the lack of packaging, the machining wasn't good. I could see and feel slight elevations and depressions in the machined gasket sealing areas. Does anyone have a recommendation for a well made timing cover (mechanical fuel pump type)?
I have seen that one Michael. My concern is that the one I removed has no sensor mount on the left. I am not sure if that will interfere with the Roush accessories setup. Are you running a Roush?
I have Roush pulleys and alternator brackets, no interference.


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You have a different Roush setup from mine. I think it is worth a try though. I am 1,000 miles away from the car, so I can't take a peek to verify. Going for it! Thanks again.