Norfolk Tornado

[Renato]

Hi Andy,

I hope your recovery from surgery goes quick and easy.

Congratulations on your purchase. I have a Bridgeport "knee mill" and even this early in my build I'm using it so much. I'm sure you will enjoy your machine many time to come when you get in to a bind late at night.
Mine came three phase 440/220 V and in NY we don't have three phase in residential homes so I made a rotary phase converter to make three phase power. I was going to go with a Inverter (VFD) but ended up with this setup. How is your Inverter setup working out? Did you make the small control box?
It's great that you got a DRO with it. Hope you got some tooling with it, too. Here in states the machines are cheap but good quality tooling is expensive.

BTW, keep on the great work on your GT40!

Regards,
Renato

 

[Andy Green]

Hi Renato,
I ended up using a VFD inverter, as my motor couldn’t be converted to run 240V 3 phase, as the coils were paired internal to the motor winding, so the VFD I use is a voltage and phase converter. As the speed control is done by changing the frequency I re-made the mill control panel with a rev-stop-fwd switch and a variable resistor to control the speed. As a result I don’t actually need to variable speed unit in the head. The DRO’s now mean I can mill very precise dimensions, probably too tight than necessary - because I can!
Unfortunately it didn’t come with any tooling so I’m now making bits and spending the ’40 money on useful tooling
Regards
Andy

 

[Keith Stafford]

Hi again Andy

Sorry, should have said get well soon.

regards

Keith

 

[Keith Stafford]

Hi Andy

sorry for all the questions. I like your repeaters, quite subtle, can you tell me the make/model?

The clasps for the front and rear are they from CBS, if so, which ones?

I searched the thread but could not see these answers.

thanks in advance.

Keith

Keith

 

[Andy Green]

Hi Keith,
The side repeaters are from CBS (#SR10). Whilst the front indicators can be bought from CBS, I purchased mine from Ebay for £5 including free P&P from Hong Kong and had no issues with delivery.
The body clasps I used come from RS (part No 687-174). To make them easier to fit, the mounting bases need turning round, which is a simple job. To support the front catch, I riveted a small bracket to the chassis to support it, as it is positioned ahead of the chassis.
As an alternative fastener, have a look at the Aerocatch 3 fastener, which could be adapted to suit this application.
Regards,
Andy

 

[Keith Stafford]

Hi Andy

I notice you attached the door pockets with pan head allen screws (#243), what did you use on the inside (for them to screw into), was it normal riv-nuts?

Keith

 

[Andy Green]

Hi Keith,
yes nothing special, just M5 riv-nuts straight into the door panel
Regards,
Andy

 

[Keith Stafford]

Hi Andy

Have only used pop rivets, my riv-nutter has not arrived yet,..... was worried that the pressure would/could crush the fibre.


Thanks

Keith

 

[Andy Green]

I had my first job using the milling machine on the ’40. I needed a simple jig to stamp the chassis plate, so all the digits would be aligned. I’d pre-marked the edge of the strip with the correct letter spacing and this was then aligned to a mark on the jig. This worked reasonably OK, but I found out that some of the letter stamps weren’t made square to their outer edge so I ended up with a few wonky letters

I also fitted the Gulf 9-hole grille. Looking at how much people charge for such a simple part, I’ve done my own. The laser cut blanks were the easier bit, the hard bit is the correct rolled edge on the holes, as they look un-finished when compared to one which has had the edges rolled. To do it, I’ve had to invest in a CNC tool to press the plates.

As I wanted to install them with a mesh beneath it, I needed a method to clamp it and cover the exposed edge of the mesh. Therefore aluminium, strips were riveted to the underside of the fibre-glass to effectively encase the mesh. Final assembly has been done using M4 stainless steel button head screws.

I’m looking at doing a small batch of them to recoup some of my investment if anyone is interested. See separate note in the Garage Sale section.

Regards,
Andy

 

[Andy Green]

Hi Brett,
The attached is a photo of the cross-beam stiffening rib I added discussed on another post. I used a polyurethane foam (which isn’t attacked by the f/glass resin) and then added 2 layers of matting to improve the overall stiffness of the clam. The hole in the middle of the beam is to access the brake light retaining screw.
Regards,
Andy

 

[Keith Stafford]

Hi Andy

I'm just in the process of buying a Corsa C EPAS from eBay, I thought since the car is in pieces this is my one and only chance to do it. I promise I'll paint her a different colour from your AG40.

Regards
Keith

 

[Andy Green]

Good man,
make sure you get the ECU connectors and the intermediate link, so it can be linked to the Ford rack.

Regards,
Andy

 

[David]

ECU not so much of a problem with the 'C' as its bolted to the column so doesn't tend to be sold separately so often. More the 'B' that tends to be problem with.

Also might find Corsa C Electric Power steering (EPAS) - blog - Seventh Heaven - Locost - Haynes Roadster of interest.

 

[Keith Stafford]

Hi Andy, what have you done about speed/rpm pulses into the EPAS? Have you fudged them or are you taking a feed off somewhere?

Keith

 

[Jayson]

Hi Andy

Did you get my PM regarding your anti roll bars?

Jayson

 

[Andy Green]

Hi Jayson,

yes I did, just be busy sorting things out other than GT40 issues!!

PM sent

Andy

 

[Andy Green]

As well as finishing off the grille sets for fellow members, I’ve managed to get a few jobs done on the ’40.
I’d originally planned to fit the oil cooler after the IVA, but as the car will have to go on a rolling road to get the engine calibrated, it’s needed now. Having a a remote oil filter head will now make servicing so much easier and although the Aeroquip socket-less fittings don’t need them, I’ve added secondary clips to them as a precaution. I really don’t want to split an oil line for the sake of a few pence for the a few clips. The ducting & undertray will be added post-IVA

My seats shells have also been dusted down and are currently at the trimmer. They’ve come a long way from my original plywood mock-up I made in 2008!

Regards,
Andy

 

[Keith Stafford]

Andy, great idea putting the oil rad at the back where there's 'wasted space', are you going to use panels on the underside (or from the body side air vents) to scoop and duct air through it?

Keith

 

[Andy Green]

Hi Keith,
Eventually there will a rear undertray and air for the cooler will be ducted up from it.
Regards,
Andy

 

[Andy Green]

I’ve collected the seats from the trimmer last week and I’m really pleased with the results. On first sight I thought that the seat based looks a little over stuffed, but they’re very comfortable with plenty of support under the thighs.
They’re not as I originally specified (should have been leather all over), but the alcantara centre sections will be less susceptible to scuffing that leather and provide a nice contrast and he did go a bit mad with the eyelets!

The heater matrix has been installed and plumbed in and I finally riveted on the top scuttle panels. Even though there’s an access panel, I left this as a late as possible as it’s so much easier to get access to the wiring, heater & stuff below it. This then allowed me to complete the fuel filler necks vent pipes. Reference pictures have been taken of this area for the IVA inspection, specifically the tank ground straps and all the clipping. I’ve separate photos of the marking on the fuel pipe used; with corresponding data sheets for the pipe should they wish to see them.

The spider is now going on for the last time after painting the underside and filling it with expanding foam. I used normal builders foam, but drilled several ¾” holes for getting it into the void and for expansion. There were then blanked with duct tape, but were positioned to be hidden behind the roll-cage. I was surprised how much stiffer the spider is now the foam has cured.

Regards,
Andy