Oil Filter Leak

[Chuck]

We have a <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com

</st1:City><st1lace w:st="on">Canton</st1lace> oil filter bracket. A nicely machined piece. The mating surface for the filter is perfectly smooth. It leaks a bit around the seal between the filter and the mating surface. We have tried cranking it down really tight. At idle there are no leaks. But drive it a few miles and there will an ounce or so of oil on the pan below the filter and oil around the top where it meets the bracket.
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Has anyone had a similar experience with this type of filter bracket? When installing the filter a bit of oil was rubbed on the gasket. Wonder if it should instead be cranked on dry.
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Does any one use a removable sealant in this situation?
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It would seem that the oil pressure us forcing oil between the gasket and the filter bracket.
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Current filter is a K and N. Had the same issue with a <st1:City w:st="on"><st1lace w:st="on">Mobile</st1lace></st1:City> I filter.

 

[Jac Mac]

Think you will find the problem is a very small leak at one of the threaded fittings. You are doing the right thing by installing with a smear of oil on the sealing ring.

 

[Randy V]

Im with Jac . . . whatt sealnt did you use in the threads of the fittings?

 

[Rick]

Chuck:

I had a similar problem and struggled with it for several months. I replaced nipple adapters, hose, hose ends, retightened fittings on the hose and even replaced fittings with the same design, to no avail. Finally I traced it to the type of fitting being used, and I was using the recommended hose. I had tried tightening it down until I was afraid I was on the verge of overtightening or stripping some threads. The fix was to replace the female fitting with the type that has a "cutter" into the hose and creates a better seal between the hose and the attached fitting. The seal between the male adapter/female hose end is generally not the problem, nor is the rubber ring on the filter. The lesser fittings were created to form a new price point and IMO don't seal as efficiently on the hose, they leak around the "B" nut. I tried replacing the male nipple adapter a second time, again without success, but without a doubt the fault was the Female fitting.
This is the good stuff: "Swivel Seal"
Earl's Hoses-- American Street Rod

 

[Randy V]

Just thinkingg here .. I dont have the Canton remote filter mount in my shopp bt I'm wondering if you shouldnt be using O-Ring style fittings on the bracket rathr than pipe fittings. THey are really close in size and pitch;

 

[Cliff Beer]

Chuck, if those are pipe threads on the fitting end (going into the filter housing), I'd try using a couple wraps of thread tape. Sealant like "Form-a-gasket" by Permatex will probably also work well too.

 

[Ron Earp]

Just thinkingg here .. I dont have the Canton remote filter mount in my shopp bt I'm wondering if you shouldnt be using O-Ring style fittings on the bracket rathr than pipe fittings. THey are really close in size and pitch;

What he said. Tried NPT fittings on a Olberg filter and they leaked no matter thread tape or teflon sealant. Got the proper threads with the o-ring AN fittings, leak stopped (From Olberg, $$). The NPT stuff was close to the Olberg body threads but they were not NPT. YMMV.

 

[Randy V]

Terribly sorry about the misspellings in my post above and elsewhere on the forum.. I take meds in the evening time that screw up my vision and I'm not a touch typist..

Chuck - If they are NPT threads - I would suggest that you use either the Teflon thread tape or Liquid teflon sealant (that's my preference) available from Permatex or your local home improvement store in the plumbing department.

 

[Chuck]

Went out and removed the reinstalled the two sensor fittings. Had not used any sealant on them for fear it would interefere with the electrical ground. This time I used Russell anti seize sealant, which has worked well for me in other locations. Also discovered it does not interfere with the electrical ground.

I usually use teflon tape, but was afraid it would insulate the electrical connection.

Business will take me from cold Illinois to Key West for the next few days, (no sympathy, please) so won't have a chance to run it for a few days. Will let you know if this fix worked.

Thanks for the good advice.

 

[Chuck]

Finally had a chance to fire up the GT. Leak is gone. Thanks for the good suggestions. It must have been a small leak on one of the fittings per Jac Mac's advice.

 

[Bill D]

Great timing! I have the same setup and the same leak. Thanks for the tip.

 

[Howard Jones]

I don't use Teflon tape on anything that has to do with the oil or fuel system. It is very possible for small pieces of tape to be torn off as the fitting tightens and be left to fowl the oil/fuel system. Think needle and seat or oil passages in the valve train. Teflon paste on the other hand will not do this.

Another thing, less expensive fittings like Russel's or the house brands from Summit or Jegs should be only used for vent lines and the like. Fuel and oil lines are what I regard as high risk failures. Therefor I would use the good stuff, Earls or Aeroquipe. This includes the hose material also. Lastly on brands/types, use the high pressure high quality types of these high end brands as well for oil and fuel. No push-on barbed hoses and fittings for oil and fuel.

My guess is you have a fitting leaking. If you want to you can check the "flatness" of the filter mount with a straight edge but I don't think its that. Oil on the filter seal before you twist it on by hand. About a 1/2 to 3/4 turn after snug should do it. Anymore and you risk a split O-ring.

 

[Chuck]

Howard:

The fittings used are Earl's. Only the sealant was Russels.

And it no longer leaks.

The point on the teflon tape is well taken. On those occasions where I have used it (never on a fuel line) the tape is started at least three threads back from the end of the fitting to prevent any tape from going where it shouldn't.

Chuck