Ozi 206 sp

Will call this thread Ozi 206 to distinguish between mine and Axels.

Several years ago I hunted out info on the 206 but then had a change of heart because I have a thing for the P4.

Over time I have tracked the 40 more and came to the conclusion the 206 would suit me better, more nimble ,cheaper to run and build.

The 40 is road registered,the 206 I have no interest in registering as it adds a realistic 40k to the build.

I was given a ton of info and drawings from a kind man and I have used that to base the car on.

I put all the suspension into SUSPROG3 made changes that I wanted.
I worked out what components to use then CAD the susp and chassis.
The original frame is tube, I will be going a riveted alloy tub with a bolt on frame on the rear that will support everything from the rear bulkhead back.

I am setting a few rules for myself.

#1 I want to keep the weight down as low as possible.
#2 95% must be made in my shop.
#3 It must be simple.If you don't really need it don't put it in.
#4 Components must be readily available and avoid custom one offs when possible.
#5 Visually retain as much originality as possible.
#6 cost

Engine will be at this point Nissan VQ30.
Cheap, all alloy 4valve hard to break,puts the car in a 3lt class if required.
VQ35 is a better engine but will put it into a 5lt class.

Transaxle at this point will be a O1E, but a DG200 or something like that would be nice but it might break rule #6.
measuring table.

I bought an autorobot from a local panel shop that was closing down.
I made a table and set up the measuring gear so it is level to the table.

It has XYZ so info from the CAD can go straight to the table.

Over the coming months I will buy other equipment to do this build.


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First part was made yesterday so I have officially started.

I want sheet metal uprights, several reasons.
I can make it.
Its cheap.
I wanted a hub style bearing flange to simplify the process of manufacture.

Pic 1 brake caliper bracket and its jig for machining the hole and recess for center tube.

Pic 2 I made a fixture jig to place the parts into as its assembled.
I had my ball joint and bearing locations and a general idea in my head what I expected it to look like, but it was make it up as you go.

The bolts to mount the wheel bearing pass through the 4 smaller crush tubes.
It also passes through the caliper bracket as I did not want to weld the bracket to the upright and rely purely on the sheet metal to support the brake loads.

Pic 3 back side

Pic 4 side panels welded in

Pic 5 Back panel , center tube and crush tubes welded in.
Top bottom rose joint mounts welded in.

Bearing is rear wheel bearing for toyota corolla 2010, I machined the OD on the flange to fit the ID of the front disk on a 2011 corolla.

The 206 runs 13" rims,the 2010 corolla runs a 275mm x 22 disk.
Wilwood makes a 4 piston caliper that that will fit under the rims that I will make.

The front Corolla bearing will be used in the rear upright, it is also a hub style.
Corolla drive shafts will be used and adapted.

Brakes will be the same front and rear,no handbrake.

5/8 rose joints top and bottom.

Thats all for the moment, i will post when I make a rear upright.


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itchy feet jim
nothing to do at work at 4 am till 7 am i know i will build another car
i think you need a bigger workshop best you send that 40 down to me
to free up space for the new toy what sort of weight are you aiming for?
looking forward to this build
Thanks Dave

Chris, you know me well.
Yes I thought I would get a longer break but I cant sit around.
I am happy when I build.

Cant send you the 40 because I'm greedy.

I am hoping 600kg or less.
Fundamentally it is a Canam car, I think its do able original cars where 535kg

Hi Jim,
I have a VQ30 Skyline and it goes extremely well and it is a heavy car so in a 600kg car it will be quite impressive. Nice job on the upright, truth is they will be lighter than alloy ones as the cast one would have to be much thicker. I will be a keen follower of this thread. Cheers Leon.

PS : do you have a rough time frame or will it take as long as it takes (like mine)
Love the smaller 206 There is replica one here in NZ it is running a Ferrari V6, beautiful car hard to tell its not the real thing.
I came to the same conclusion with the upright in regards to the weight.

Time frame I am hoping 2-3 years.

I have seen pictures of the car you are talking about .it is a nut and bolt copy.

This is the rear upright.

Spent a lot of time before even cutting a piece of metal.
Drawings checking brake clearances just by drawings ect.

Firstly I made a jig, basic but it did the trick.

Some of the welding was done in the jig but lots was done out and just kept putting it back in to check, Top and bottom holes are drilled last so even if it has a little tweak it makes no difference.

Just a warning all pics of the bench will look like a mess, thats normal when I fabricate.


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I will explain the method I used so if anyone wishes to make an upright it may give some ideas, right or wrong its the way I did it.

I used 2mm hot rolled sheet.
I used hot rolled because its MPA on yield strength is up 30% on cold rolled mild sheet.

The above jig has 3 points, bearing location, lower and upper arm locations

First I cut out the floor. I achieved this through cardboard patterns and measure.
You need a center line on the sheet to locate the bearing location, all the measurements for folds up and down the sheet started at the bearing location.


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The first 2 folds are done just using a bevel gauge to find your angles.
I dont do all the folds at once, start in the middle and move out towards the ends.

If you dont land one exact you make an adjustment on the next if required.

I put marks on the jig for heights I am chasing, I did not make it to tight that it has no room for error ,EG leave enough area around rose joints so I have room to play.


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Next part is the brake bracket, this I built inside the upright not attached to it externally.
The wheel bearing bolts are taking the loads not the sheet metal.

The design was designated for this part purely on available bolts.
12x1.25 pitch x 140mm long is just to hard to get so I gave up and decided to drop a floor in through the center and run 80mm long bolts.

The bracket needs crush tubes and I rolled a 95mm tube to allow the drive shaft to pass.
The floor height is 55mm but at this point I made all the tubes longer


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The tubes welded to the bracket are placed in the floor and welded in a few spots just to hold it.

The side panel is pattered in card then play with it to get a good fit.
Tack it in.
Most of this was done out of the jig.


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Now I missed a shot for this part.
The floor is made to fit down over the tube and get set at 55 high from the front face.

It is tacked in on the one side panel the top and bottom.
I air hacksawed the excess of the tubes then used a disk sander to get them flush to the floor panel.
I welded the tubes to the floor, with one side panel off it gives access.

The other side panel is made and fitted then both sides are welded in.


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Folded up the inner box and welded it in.
This I made higher than the sides by 5 mm then made the lid to fit over it and sanded it down flush.

Welded the whole unit together.
Welding method was from the top to the bearing face, both sides in the same direction.
bearing face to bottom, both sides ,same direction.
Then the bearing face in same direction.
Back lid was top to bottom.
This was out of the jig and it did not pull at all.


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Hardware attached.

The upright is 4KG on its own.
7.4 with a bearing assembly.
14.4 complete with brakes.

Front uprights ended up 2.4KG

Thats all I have for the moment.



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Terry Oxandale

Skinny Man
Very impressive. Thanks for the detailed description and photos. This will be very helpful in fabricating up some plate uprights later.

Terry Oxandale

Skinny Man
How was the brake bracket with the crush-tubes attached to the exterior pieces? Was it solely through the CV-tube and crush-tubes, or was there any welding of the bracket plate itself to the exterior piece (the floor?)?