P2304

[Steve]

Jeff,

It would be a huge benefit to the rest of us if you listed and detailed as many of the 15 or so items RM upgraded as you can. One of the (obvious) tremendous benefits of this forum is that we all get to learn from each other's experiences. I'm really interested to know where they tweaked things as there's almost always room for a bit of improvement.

 

[Steve]

Jeff,

Oh, and lots of pics! Your car is looking fantastic, you must feed my addiction!

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

Jeff,

It would be a huge benefit to the rest of us if you listed and detailed as many of the 15 or so items RM upgraded as you can. One of the (obvious) tremendous benefits of this forum is that we all get to learn from each other's experiences. I'm really interested to know where they tweaked things as there's almost always room for a bit of improvement.

Good point Steve!

I am working on an updated chassis sealing thread to supplement the info we working almost five years ago.

As soon as I get all of the photos done and the results are confirmed I will start a "new" SPF sealing post.

Sadly the very good GT40 wiki site has been allowed to fade away. Lets share more info here to the benefit of all GT40 owners.

 

[Dave Hood]

Jeff:

My plug wires are routed to avoid the heat, but the spark plug boots really design the part of the wire that is closest to the engine block. It's a cheap investment, so I'd do it. I'm glad that RM re-routed your EFI inputs from the back of the engine to the front. I've got an Eight Stack EFI system and Dennis Olthoff did the same thing. It's way too hot right next to headers in the back.

When the car is delivered, we'd enjoy seeing video!

 

[Dave Hood]

Sorry...I meant "protect" the past of the wire, not design...

 

[Jeffrey]

So close. About 10ft from my garage. Got it that far, but currently not running. Eating main 80AMP fuses, so need to do some diagnostic work. A few bugs to work out, but nothing unexpected.

A little warm in the cabin. Anyone want to help me decipher the 3 AC controls in the door...and how they relate to the fan dial switch on the dash?

- Jeffrey

 

[Mike]

Eating 80 amp fuse? Damn be careful don't burn it down!

Did you put the helicopter vents in the window? I have ran the A/C in mine once this year for a couple of minutes just to blow out the cobwebs.

http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tec...im/24133-spf-gt-switch-control-positions.html

 

[Jeffrey]

Thanks for the link! Helps greatly. Well, no wonder it was so hot, I had the temp control on high...which blew both hot and cold air.

No helicopter vents, but they appear a must.

Yes, there will not be a lot of fiddling with 80Amp blowing. I suspect it is something to do with the starter surge, but not sure. Back to RM tomorrow to hopefully sort it out.

And thank you so much for the tips on mirrors! I love what I have on mine from both a look and functionality perspective. No problem driving it home on the freeway with a bunch of cars around. It will take a little getting used to, but I was actually very surprised how easy it was to see out of. No cameras needed.

The shifter linkage...ugh. That may need a little help Some of it might be set up. I was able to swim around the gears, but not with anything close to grace.

- Jeffrey

 

[Dave Hood]

Living in Colorado has its advantages, Mike. Here in Charlotte I run my A/C 8-9 months of the year. I have the helicopter vents in both windows, and they are fantastic as long as the heat and humidity aren't too high. They don't do me any good from June - September. Since you're in Michigan, Jeffrey, I would recommend that you have them installed. At least on the driver's side. You can order them from Dennis Olthoff. They're on his website under GT40 parts. If you had them installed, I'm sure you'd find many days where they would serve as a great substitute to your A/C.

The A/C controls in the door seem pretty cheaply made. For me, it was a matter of gently playing with the settings until I found what seemed to be the best combination. And then, I made sure I never played with them again. But I never need heat in my car either, so it's easier for me to find one setting and leave it alone. I was told by the guys at Olthoff's shop a couple of years back that SPF cars vary in terms of how well the A/C works. The SPF system will never perform anywhere as well as what you'd find in a true production car.

 

[Mike]

Indeed it does Dave ha. It can still get warm here but I'm back in the garage before 9am on most days and Colorado is pretty cool in the mornings even in the summer.

Glad you like the mirrors Jeff. You will quickly adapt to them. You'll quickly adapt to the brutish nature of the car in general. Mine shifts fine but requires a firm hand and being careful on the 3 to 4 so you don't go 3 to 2 and spin the engine. Mine at times can be a challenge to get into 1st but let it coast or slide it into 2nd and barely get it rolling and it slides right into 1st. Bottom line I would predict given a couple weeks the car will fit you like a glove. Everything that initially feels stiff or harsh will begin to feel perfect in a short amount of time. Most of your passengers will always be a bit afraid of the beast

 

[Jeffrey]

It was blowing plenty of ice cold air....but a lot of hot air along with it from someplace. Way more than just engine intrusion air. I think I had the hot and cold on at once. I think the hot was coming out the dash defroster vent, not sure. It sure was hot to the touch.

Can someone remind me of the key positions as well. With my fuse problem I want to make sure I have it correct. Turn left for engine running, turn right for assessories?

Dang that thing looks good in the driveway.

Thanks!

- Jeff

 

[Mike]

Sure does Jeff more pictures! I like the driving lights.

 

[DaveM]

Try the Defrost ( right knob) fully clockwise. That's counterintuitive, but works on mine. Otherwise you probably are running heat (defrost) and A/C together. Nothing should be coming out of the top of the dash.

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

Try the Defrost ( right knob) fully clockwise. That's counterintuitive, but works on mine. Otherwise you probably are running heat (defrost) and A/C together. Nothing should be coming out of the top of the dash.

Correct. I just figured this out after weeks of less than maximum AC. Make sure the ducts to the dash vents are not crushed....happens when the dash is installed at PE.

I have found about 20% of the AC air sent to the footwell helps keep it all cool. And do some work on the front tub sealing, makes a big difference if you are not fighting hot air from the radiator.

Oh, and some arsehole on this site sells an AC upgrade sealing kit but for the life of me I can't recall the dickheads name.............

 

[Jeffrey]

Oh, and some arsehole on this site sells an AC upgrade sealing kit but for the life of me I can't recall the dickheads name.............

And, as that a-hole, d-head knows, I have indeed tried to direct some business to him for the great work he does supporting this forum.

Would you happen to know more details about said kit. What it is comprised of, price, etc? Would you be in a position to share some photos of what it's made up of?

The 80AMP fuse is blowing (sometimes) when the starter is cranked. However, the cooling fan was on, the AC was on, the AC fan on high during engine crank. I half wonder if that is overwhelming the system. While I was not paying close attention, I don't think all that additional stuff cut off during engine crank like a modern car.

I have not fiddled with it much as next time I try to start it, I want it to be in the morning immediately prior to a drive back to RM to sort things out.

Hopefully just a minor glitch.

Mike, I do also thank you for your comments and encouragement about the early driving experience. It is indeed a little overwhelming. As brutal as it was, particularly with the heat inadvertently on full blast in the summer, I have an irresistible urge to go drive it more! I had less trouble with 1st than I did with 2nd and 4th. Not sure I ever got into them right. It's fun to imagine that some day I may actually know how to drive this thing with at least a modicum of polish. I have no idea how anyine ever gets good enough with one of these to actually race them

- Jeff

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

Some sealing info on these threads:

http://www.gt40s.com/forum/superformance-gt40s/29631-spf-gt-water-air-sealing-diy-thread.html


http://www.gt40s.com/forum/superformance-gt40s/30007-spf-gt40-ac-box-seal-kit.html

 

[Jimmy P]

Jeff, couldn't be happier for you what a stunner! I did chuckle a bit when reading some of your first impressions. These cars are a hoot to drive but mastering them, now that's another tale. All in good time for all of us.

You've already encountered some of the delightful (for some) aspects of ownership. That being the small idiosyncrasies of these cars. They are nothing like owning a "regular" car and for many of us that's the charm. Getting them sorted is just part of the fun. All the the best for your continued enjoyment.

 

[Jeffrey]

80 AMP fuse problem corrected. The starter was not wired correctly. Easy correction. Slightly sticky throttle cable also corrected.

Heat into the cabin at freeway speed still seems a bit more than it should be. AC is fine in traffic, but is having troubles at freeway speeds. Opposite of what I'd expect. Time to check settings and look for air intrusions. Thanks Rick for the links.

Shifting is still an adventure. I think almost by accident I made it through the gears once yesterday without botching it up. Anyone have experience with Olthoff's shift linkage upgrade?

Current biggest problem is vapor lock. Fuel rail is getting crazy hot. Wondering if I need a fuel pressure regulator, or if something is not adjusted quite right. I'll run it back to RM Motorsports on Monday to have that sorted out.

Had a blast at the Ann Arbor Rolling Sculpture car show yesterday. Certainly an attention getter!

- Jeffrey

 

[DaveM]

Yes the Olthoff shift linkage mod is worth it. Reduces shifter travel and is more precise.

 

[Rich E.]

Jeff, If you haven't sealed the tunnel and the bulkhead openings behind the seats with foam your gonna get alot of heated air through those areas. Another smaller area is the holes where the shoulder harness's attach. On the engine side you can install foam bricks through the holes that will drastically cut down on the hot air intrusion. Do yourself a favor and pull your seats out and look through the holes. They are cavernous. I glued insulation over my holes. As for the tunnel, I took Dennis O's recommendation and added zip lock bags that were then filled with expanding foam to get in the crevices inside the tunnel. Those and sealing the holes in the footwell area helped quite a bit.