PeteB
GT40s Supporter
Cam, I used the standard spray gun from DYC and did it in my garage.
The Dipyourcar Community group on Facebook is much more active the DYC forum.
Pete B's Build Thread
- Thread starter PeteB
- Start date
Cam, I used the standard spray gun from DYC and did it in my garage.
The Dipyourcar Community group on Facebook is much more active the DYC forum.
Hi Pete. Are you happy with the Kirky seats? I am seriously considering them. What width did you buy if you don't mind me asking. I think Ill need 17's.
Does anyone know the width dimension of the stock seats? They are a little tight in the rear! I purchased my car second hand. It was from 2013 originally.
Thanks
Does anyone know the width dimension of the stock seats? They are a little tight in the rear! I purchased my car second hand. It was from 2013 originally.
Thanks
PeteB
GT40s Supporter
Finally got around to changing the rear springs today. I was happy with the ride quality with stock springs but needed more height, so I bumped it up a little to 700 lb/in springs:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/eib-08002500700
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/eib-08002500700
PeteB
GT40s Supporter
I added an ignition button to the dash and re-wired the start button so I can turn the ignition on, then turn the engine over by pushing the start button. To do this, I disconnected the ISIS "one button start" wire and connected the "ignition" wire to the ignition button and the "start" wire to the engine start button.
An unexpected result was the engine start button was now live even with the ignition off. To fix this, I added a relay to provide an ignition on ground to the start button.
I used a LED billet button that I had left over from my Cobra for the ignition:
An unexpected result was the engine start button was now live even with the ignition off. To fix this, I added a relay to provide an ignition on ground to the start button.
I used a LED billet button that I had left over from my Cobra for the ignition:
PeteB
GT40s Supporter
Finally got around to installing the splitter tunnels AJ gave me.
I kinda guessed on the placement, but they really can only go a about half an inch left or right from where I put them. I angled them a bit to match the curvature of the back of the splitter.
Hole marked:
Cut:
Tunnel installed:
I used epoxy, rivets, and four 1/4" bolts to hold it on. Needed the bolts because the flanges on the tunnels aren't flat and needed to be pulled down to meet the splitter.
I kinda guessed on the placement, but they really can only go a about half an inch left or right from where I put them. I angled them a bit to match the curvature of the back of the splitter.
Hole marked:
Cut:
Tunnel installed:
I used epoxy, rivets, and four 1/4" bolts to hold it on. Needed the bolts because the flanges on the tunnels aren't flat and needed to be pulled down to meet the splitter.
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Fran Hall RCR
GT40s Sponsor
They will help at higher speeds , as you say the fender louvers help too
With our race cars or serious track cars we put one inch of rake in the car from front to rear axle centerline too
With our race cars or serious track cars we put one inch of rake in the car from front to rear axle centerline too
Fran Hall RCR
GT40s Sponsor
Probably connectors for headlights
PeteB
GT40s Supporter
Fran is correct - those are trailer plugs for connecting the headlights, marker lights, and turn signals. Makes removing the front clip much faster.
PeteB
GT40s Supporter
Drove down to Cincy today to talk to the guys a Cincy Vinyl Wraps. We came up with a plan for the wrap that is going to look awesome. I'm going to peel the Plastidip and finish the bodywork after LS Fest, then get the wrap done in the Oct or Nov.
Observations from my first 100+ mile trip:
1) I need to get the windows tinted. The A/C is blowing cold air, but when the sun is beating down on you, you're still hot.
2) Need more insulation on the forward firewall. Lots of heat coming in from the radiator. A/C wasn't keeping up. It was 97F out, so it was an unusually hot day.
3) Got got caught in a short but intense rainstorm and found out where all the leaks are. I've got significant leaks where the roof panel meets the rollbar in the front. Not really sure who to get this completely sealed.
4) Driving this thing on the intersate sucks. I'm beat after 2 hours in the car. I'm thinking I'm going to try to borrow a friend's trailer to take it down to Kentucky for LS Fest.
5) Trans temp is a little concerning. It was up to 202F when I got home.
Observations from my first 100+ mile trip:
1) I need to get the windows tinted. The A/C is blowing cold air, but when the sun is beating down on you, you're still hot.
2) Need more insulation on the forward firewall. Lots of heat coming in from the radiator. A/C wasn't keeping up. It was 97F out, so it was an unusually hot day.
3) Got got caught in a short but intense rainstorm and found out where all the leaks are. I've got significant leaks where the roof panel meets the rollbar in the front. Not really sure who to get this completely sealed.
4) Driving this thing on the intersate sucks. I'm beat after 2 hours in the car. I'm thinking I'm going to try to borrow a friend's trailer to take it down to Kentucky for LS Fest.
5) Trans temp is a little concerning. It was up to 202F when I got home.
Don't know if that is typical, but sounds like you may need a pump and cooler??
Bill
Bill
202 is fine. The oil won't start to break down until in the 400 degree range. 200 is just warmed up and ready to go.
PeteB
GT40s Supporter
I been playing around with mounting locations for my GoPro before my track day next week. Here's a video of a drive in the SLC. Not a very exciting drive stuck behind slow traffic most of the time, but you can see how my long range rear view cam works.
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RjGIPQenGt0"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RjGIPQenGt0[/ame]
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RjGIPQenGt0"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RjGIPQenGt0[/ame]
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Pete,
I created a very similar shroud but I found it was still getting quite warm in the cabin from the radiator. I bought a roll of reflective insulation from Home Depot and ran it behind the shroud covering the exposed footbox to the left and right of the shroud and I also covered the brake reservoir while I was at it. It has helped quite a bit more.
Also I see you have the original fans on your rad. I could not keep the car from overheating under 30 mph or so with those so I replaced them with the below (Alan's suggestion) and it completely solved the problem.
MAR-TA11A3001
Radiator Fan, Champion, Plastic, Black, 11.0 in. Diameter, 1,380 cfm, Each
(Mfr. #: TA11A3001)
Cheers,
Craig
I created a very similar shroud but I found it was still getting quite warm in the cabin from the radiator. I bought a roll of reflective insulation from Home Depot and ran it behind the shroud covering the exposed footbox to the left and right of the shroud and I also covered the brake reservoir while I was at it. It has helped quite a bit more.
Also I see you have the original fans on your rad. I could not keep the car from overheating under 30 mph or so with those so I replaced them with the below (Alan's suggestion) and it completely solved the problem.
MAR-TA11A3001
Radiator Fan, Champion, Plastic, Black, 11.0 in. Diameter, 1,380 cfm, Each
(Mfr. #: TA11A3001)
Cheers,
Craig
