Pete B's Build Thread

[PeteB]

Made some progress this weekend - got the brake lines installed.

I decided to use rivet nuts on this build. During my last car build, through much experimentation, I discovered the difference in the amount of torque required to tap a hole and the torque required to break the tap is approximately 0.00001%.





Unfortunately, my cheapo rivnut installer I bought at Ace Hardware broke about halfway through the brake line install, so I went back to tapping holes until the new tool I ordered from McMaster-Carr arrives.

It took me a while to figure out the brass fittings that come installed in the residual valves have to be removed. The smaller one is glued in and is a real pain to get out. I broke one of the pre-installed fittings trying to unscrew it and had to drill out the middle and use an easy out to get it out.



The access holes in the footboxes sure make working in the footboxes easier. Here's the lines inside the footbox:


Front outside the footbox:


Line to LF caliper:


Down the side:


Rear section:


I made a bracket from some aluminum bar to mount the line end to frame at the LR Caliper:


Pretty much the same on the other side. Next up, coolant lines.

 

[Jack]

I've had pretty good luck with tap drills. Also at Mac-Master carr.
Harbor Freight has a cheapo air riveter that works pretty well.

 

[Dave Forster]

I have been doing all my threaded holes with these: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-DTAPKIT-6-Piece-Combination-Drill/dp/B0041FIR1E/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1390226161&sr=1-1&keywords=greenlee]Greenlee DTAPKIT 6-32 to 1/4-20 6-Piece Combination Drill and Tap Set - Amazon.com[/ame]

Very quick and haven't broken one yet.

 

[PeteB]

Made a little progress this week. Got the cooling lines run to the rear, installed the brake and clutch reservoirs, and messed around with the drivers seat mounting.

On the cooling lines, I went with "low buck solution" from the builder's wiki: Cooling pipes - Superlite SLC Builders wiki

 

[Les]

I love this thread with all the photographs! Keep it up!

 

[PeteB]

The big brown truck delivered my steering wheel hub and quick release today.

To fit the hub, I first had to cut off the square piece of plastic where the wires come through the factory wiring hub:



I cut out all but two of the wires, as that's all I will be needing for the horn button, then mounted the hub (NRG SRK-177H - [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008FT5ZLW/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1]Amazon.com: NRG Short Steering Wheel Hub Adapter (Boss) Kit - Chevrolet Corvette (2006+) - Part # SRK-177H (Black): Automotive[/ame])





I then hooked up the horn wires and mounted the bottom of the quick release to the hub (QR is NRG SRK-200BK [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FGOFHY/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1]Amazon.com: NRG GEN 2.0 QUICK RELEASE HUB KIT SRK-200BK: Automotive[/ame])



Then the top of the QR:


Still waiting for my steering wheel from Jegs. The APC wheel that comes with the kit has a Grant bolt pattern which doesn't fit the NRG QR.

 

[PeteB]

Got my fuel system done this week.

System components:
1) Shutoff valve at fuel tank outlet (I want to be able to change/clean the fuel filters without draining the tank)
2) Holley 100 micron filter
3) Summit 95 gal/hr low pressure pump
4) RCR Surge tank
5) Walbro 255 l/hr high pressure pump
6) Wix filer/regulator for LS1
7) LOTS of fittings :laugh::laugh:

Shutoff valve, fittings, and Holley filter


Installed:




Pumps and filters installed:


I raised the surge tank off the floor to make more room and to allow the HP pump to be below the tank. I used a piece of aluminum angle on one side and a piece of all-thread on the other to mount it.



All finished:

 

[Troy Truglio]

? for your tank pump Pete. It goes for a low spot on the tank, goes up, to a valve, filter, then down to the pump. Does the tank pump have a vacuum that sucks the fuel up. The way it looks once the fuel sloshes and air gets in there they air might stay at the top of that loop and not get fuel. Just thinking out loud on that. If the pump does pull a good vacuum then I would not think much of it.

Thoughts?

 

[PeteB]

I'll admit I had the same thought after I finished putting everything together. I think I'll put some fuel in the tank and try it out before I button things up. If it doesn't work, I think I'll have to get rid of the valve, as there just isn't enough room.

 

[Mike]

Still waiting for my steering wheel from Jegs. The APC wheel that comes with the kit has a Grant bolt pattern which doesn't fit the NRG QR.

I used one of these adaptors to mount my Momo steering wheel - worked great.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/...ing wheel ad&sw=Grant Steering Wheel Adapters

 

[PeteB]

Recent progress - I redid the line from the tank to the lift pump and got the ramlift system all installed, bled, and tested.

Here's the new fuel setup. I had to delete the shutoff valve. Still about an inch uphill, but much better than before.





Installed the ramlift and used my Phoenix Systems reverse bleeder to "bench bleed" the system:




I think I'm making good progess. Getting something done pretty much every day. I think I'll work on the A/C next.

 

[Fran Hall RCR]

Great job Pete...you are certainly making some good progress. You must have a good heater in the garage as its bloody freezing here in the Midwest.....

 

[PeteB]

I've got two electric heaters in the garage, but I keep tripping the breaker out there. I am certainly looking forward to spring!

 

[Kevin]

this is great...keep the pictures coming...thanks from the couch jockeys like me !

 

[PeteB]

Here's a short video of the Ram Lift in operation. Still got some work to do on this because it's leaking at the 90 deg fitting into the rams on both sides.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2qe0MddhUdY"]Ramlift Pro operation on the Superlite Coupe - YouTube[/ame]

 

[Fran Hall RCR]

Pete
do not operate the lift kit the with shock fully extended position as shown in your video...you will damage the shock.
Make sure that the collars are lower on the threaded section of the shock and you have some free travel ....the spring should not compress when the lift cylinder is operated and no weight is on the wheels

 

[Simon]

Pete, It also sound like you need to increase the relieve valve setting. The squealing is the relieve valve bypassing fluid. You may also still have some air in the system. It should decrease the lift time but take Fran's advice before you proceed.

Simon

 

[PeteB]

Well, I think I got as much air out of the system as I'm going to get. I'll try adjusting the release valve.

 

[PeteB]

After following Fran's important safety tip, I fixed the leaks, re-bled the system, and adjusted the relief valve. The pump is still loud, but it is noticeable quieter now.

 

[Bill]

Yup, I agree. My front springs are set at the lowest possible ride height. That put the ride height right at the spec noted in the SLC Build manual.

Pete
do not operate the lift kit the with shock fully extended position as shown in your video...you will damage the shock.
Make sure that the collars are lower on the threaded section of the shock and you have some free travel ....the spring should not compress when the lift cylinder is operated and no weight is on the wheels