I am pulling the engine tomorrow so I can install the new 347. I assume I need to pull the transaxle also? Is there a sequence that is better tan another? thanks chuck
pulling motor
- Thread starter chuck 1
- Start date
Hi Chuck,
This is how we do it:
1) Set car on stands, high enough to move around under. Disconnect battery.
2) Unplug tailight wiring harness, remove rear body section, keep all washers and bolts in order for proper re-aligngment later.
3) Drain coolant system, good time to change it if murky, disconnect rad & heater hoses
4) Remove headers, distributor, plug wires and induction system, drain oil, remove filter.
5) Disconnect all engine wiring, tie rap or tape all loose ends away from the engine.
6) Remove inner CV joint drive bolts, suspend drive shafts with safety wire up and away for clearance, disconnect shift rod at ZF selector box. Support transaxle with jack stand.
7) Remove anti sway bar with drop links and mounting plate, remove ZF transaxle bracket.
8) Hook up engine crane to front of cylinder heads and transaxle mounting ears.
NOTE: Take a look to be sure everything is disconnected.
9) Gently apply some lifting force to unload motor mounts, remove motor mount bolts from block and through bolt on chassis brackets so engine side of mounts are off.
NOTE: Keep an eye on everything while supporting the weight of the drivetrain and how the drivetrain appears to be balanced on the chains. Keep hands clear.
10) The drivetrain will come out level, no need to nose it down to clear the horseshoe hoop.
11) Lift drivetrain up enough to pull it strait back out of the chassis.
Re-assembly is basically all of the above in reverse.
A couple of things to watch out for BEFORE mating up the engine and transxale:
1) Check the run-out on the bell housing with a dial indicator around the bore that the transaxle bolts up to. If it's out more than a few thousands, your throwout bearing and transaxle input shaft bearing/seal won't last and the clutch pedal will get be real heavy. This can be adjusted out with offset dowel pins.
2) Check the pilot bearing in the back of the crankshaft for inside diameter to match your ZF input shaft.
3) Make sure the bellhousing back plate doesn't interfere with the oil pan flange
4) Check the in-balance weights of your flywheel and damper to the new motor specs.
5) Use new FORD flywheel bolts to reassemble the flywheel to crankshaft.
That ought to keep you from having to do the job more than once, don't ask me how I know
Cheers
This is how we do it:
1) Set car on stands, high enough to move around under. Disconnect battery.
2) Unplug tailight wiring harness, remove rear body section, keep all washers and bolts in order for proper re-aligngment later.
3) Drain coolant system, good time to change it if murky, disconnect rad & heater hoses
4) Remove headers, distributor, plug wires and induction system, drain oil, remove filter.
5) Disconnect all engine wiring, tie rap or tape all loose ends away from the engine.
6) Remove inner CV joint drive bolts, suspend drive shafts with safety wire up and away for clearance, disconnect shift rod at ZF selector box. Support transaxle with jack stand.
7) Remove anti sway bar with drop links and mounting plate, remove ZF transaxle bracket.
8) Hook up engine crane to front of cylinder heads and transaxle mounting ears.
NOTE: Take a look to be sure everything is disconnected.
9) Gently apply some lifting force to unload motor mounts, remove motor mount bolts from block and through bolt on chassis brackets so engine side of mounts are off.
NOTE: Keep an eye on everything while supporting the weight of the drivetrain and how the drivetrain appears to be balanced on the chains. Keep hands clear.
10) The drivetrain will come out level, no need to nose it down to clear the horseshoe hoop.
11) Lift drivetrain up enough to pull it strait back out of the chassis.
Re-assembly is basically all of the above in reverse.
A couple of things to watch out for BEFORE mating up the engine and transxale:
1) Check the run-out on the bell housing with a dial indicator around the bore that the transaxle bolts up to. If it's out more than a few thousands, your throwout bearing and transaxle input shaft bearing/seal won't last and the clutch pedal will get be real heavy. This can be adjusted out with offset dowel pins.
2) Check the pilot bearing in the back of the crankshaft for inside diameter to match your ZF input shaft.
3) Make sure the bellhousing back plate doesn't interfere with the oil pan flange
4) Check the in-balance weights of your flywheel and damper to the new motor specs.
5) Use new FORD flywheel bolts to reassemble the flywheel to crankshaft.
That ought to keep you from having to do the job more than once, don't ask me how I know
Cheers
thanks Ian
Well said Ian. I just did this procedure myself for my cav. It really isn't too bad. Just patience.
