Comp cams reviews


Hi All,
Just reaching out to ask if anyone has any experience of Comp Cams... I understand they are owned by Edlebrock so am guessing a uality product but have heard on or two issues on other V8 Forums.
I am thinking problems are likely to be from wrong run in or oils thereafter but good to hear anyone's experiences.
I finally identified I lost lobs on my Edlebrook 7222 RPM Cam as a result of dual prings that were too stiff..... an expensive error... !!!
Whilst roller Cam would be a good option budget is a consideration and I am hoping that if I get the install run in and zinc oils correct then fingers crossed I will be good...
So after reaasearch I am looking at either a EX 262H or EX 268H for my new top end this time with matching Spring rates...!!!
I am running a 302 stroked to 347 with TrickFlow 1700 Ally Heads Edlebrock 650cfm 4barrel Carb and RPMAIRGAP manifold...
I am leaning toward the EX268H after reading reviews and welcome anyone's Comp Cam experience.
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Well they make a lot of cams, but my experience of their 'off the shelf' products has been marred by poor quality control; incorrect heat treatment ( required an engine rebuild) and a cam with some oversized journals . I understand the custom billet stuff is good.
I take it 447 should be 347.
Edelbrock is owned by IOP.
IOP aslo bought Comp Cams.

As with any flat tapped cam, its very importand to break it in properly otherwise lobes can wear out with 10 miles.
So after initial start, 20 minuts 2500rpm, no shut off!
Break in oil with atleast 1600ppm ZDDP (zinc)! Or additives that boost ZDDP contents to that level. Additives like Cam Shield, available worldwide.
Also after break in, engine oil should have a minimum content of atleast 1000ppm ZDDP (zinc) with any flat tapped camshaft.

Its very unlikely to stiff valve springs wear out cam lobes. You need stiff springs for higher rpm to prevent valve bounce.
Usualy, worn lobes are a result of improper break in & not enough zinc.

Comp cams as with any cam manufatorer, needs to be dailed in properly during instal using gauges. Follow the instalation instructions and do not rely on crank & cam gear markings.


Thanks for the above JP... all points well made and spprrcisted... Sadly all my existing springs will need switching or Comp Cams will not warranty Cam... Once exact Csm chosen i will religiously follow the run in guidelines and keep everything crossed...:)

Randy V

Staff member
Lifetime Supporter
Thanks for the above JP... all points well made and spprrcisted... Sadly all my existing springs will need switching or Comp Cams will not warranty Cam... Once exact Csm chosen i will religiously follow the run in guidelines and keep everything crossed...:)
You absolutely cannot let the engine idle even for 15 seconds the wear-in process is extremely aggressive and the lobes and lifters will be damaged.
Make sure the vehicle is outside when you do this and that you have fire extinguishers and garden hose at the ready. I have had to mist the radiator on a number of vehicles as they got hot very quickly….
Honestly, it is a huge gamble with flat tappet cams these days. Too many reports of failures from well known engine builders. Cams not being properly parkerized, soft liters etc…
I advise my customers to change the filter immediately after breaking in flat tappet cams and then again along with the oil in a couple hundred miles.
Good luck!


All in all, there is some very good advice being offered here. As for Edelbrock & Comp Cams- I have not bought any of their cams for a long time. I'm running a Crower roller cam and I am very pleased with it... but I am running a small-block Chevrolet. I have no experience with Ford engines.


Hello All....

I just thought I would thank everyone for invaluable advise.... Also I wanted to add to this thread as other engine builders might find info of future use...
I found Robert Overfield at Edlebrock an amazingly helpful chap.... [email protected]......if anyone needs engine build assistance Rob's the guy..
Rob has built several 347 engines and like us is a FORD man.....:) After giving the full spec on my engine below we have settled on a Comp Cams 31-246-3 Kit which includes a EX274H Cam with matching 986-16 dual springs......its a more aggressive Cam that should be quite an upgrade on the Edlebrock 7122 I was running.
My Spec
Edlebrock 650 cfm
Edlebrock AIR GAP manifold
Trick Flow 1700 Twisted Edge Ally Heads
For those who may be interested in flat tappet Cams I will update this thread to illustrate how we get on and hopefully give some good feedback on what I hope will be a great Cam for my set-up....!!
Thanks to all that have taken the time to help me.....its always really appreciated....

Howard Jones

I just built a new motor for my SLC and used a Hyd roller cam. I would not put a flat tappet (hyd or solid) in a new engine under ANY circumstances. We broke in the engine (hyd roller) on a dyno and never had any oil issues using Valvoline VR50 oil. First ran the engine at 1500 to warm it up to 160F. Then ran the engine to 2500 for a few min to stabilize the ring package, valve tip, push-rod, rockers, and lifters as well as the oil pump drive. Pulled filter and cut open. All good. New filter/add oil.

Did a full pull to check AFR and timing stability. Then did a jet change, timing adjustment, and another full pull to 6500. Reset total advance and then another full pull to take out about 30+ HP. Then another with air cleaner assembly from my car (reduction of 1-2 HP above 6000). One final AFR check and done. Dillon then told me to "put it in the car, check oil pressure and coolant temp offen during first track session to be sure you do not have a leak then its good to go. It made 550Hp or so at less than 6500. No special breaking in oil, valve springs, etc. Just throw away the first fill of oil and filter. New oil/filter when installed into the car.

Street or dual-use engines with a usable redline of 6500 rpms should be designed for a hyd roller cam and lifter. A race-only engine with a red line of 7000-9000 should be built with a solid roller cam/lifter combo.

There is NO advantage to using either a flat tappet solid or hyd cam in a modern engine. As far as I know, there are no OEM solid tappet cams in any type of engine today.

By the way, IF you kill a cam during break it is going to be a complete tear-down, disassembly, and replacement of all the bearings. Still want a flat tappet cam? Why?
.... First ran the engine at 1500 to warm it up to 160F. Then ran the engine to 2500 for a few min...
There's the problem..
Flat tapped camshaft break in... 2500 rpm for 20 minuts inmidiatly after first start. No shut off what ever happens unless the car is on fire. No need for warmup as the engine isn't running under load.
2500rpm, you do ignition and carb adjustments (base adjustments during this 2500 rpm). Waterhose nearby if cooling issues apear.
2500rpm minimum directly after first start.

People ruine the cam lobes by not running in the cam properly.

Ive never had any issues with new flat tapped cams. Comp cams, Isky cams, Schneider cams, Newman cams and Kent cams.
I do use Mahle Cam Guard on every new cam install.
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Many thanks again JP.....
I very much appreciate all the time that people have spent writing on this thread..... I also acknowledge that everyone will have their opinions based on experience.... :) .....the great thing about the Forum is that the more info helps chaps like me make informed judgements.....
We won't all agree but thanks one and all....
Install is happening next week.....wish me luck and watch this space....:)