Question - Installing the SLC fuel sender

Joel K

Supporter
Hi,

Just wanted to get some real world experience on the best approach to install the stock SLC fuel sender.

The manual states to do the following:

1)Make sure the flange is clean and threads are good
2)Do not use any sealant on the cork gasket
3)Torque the screws in a cross pattern to no more than 15 inch-pounds

Any other recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks!
 

Scott

Lifetime Supporter
I'm aware of several builders who have had units fail. One builder had it fail after one tank of E85 and the others were running standard gas for probably a couple of years. If you have a tub, you need to tear the car apart to replace it. It's primary benefit is that it's calibrated to the unique shape of the fuel tank. If I had a tub, I would not use the provided fuel sender if I had a tub.

I designed my fuel cell to use a high-quality mechanical sender which can be serviced via the bottom of the car. MoTeC makes it easy for me to create a map for level and to smooth the signal.
 

Joel K

Supporter
Thanks Scott, Centroid documents their fuel senders are good for up to 10% ethanol. So that makes sense it failed with E85. I plan to run 91 or 93 Octane so it may last.

I read most high octane fuels there is 10% Ethanol and lower octane is 15%.
Not too concerned about servicing the fuel sender. I’ll have easy access to it.

My most recent modification…
0E879627-001F-44C3-AB48-CBEE4638DD0B.jpeg
 

Scott

Lifetime Supporter
Joel, it's good that you can easily service the fuel sender. Note that your modification to the tank will change the custom calibration for the stock SL-C tank. I think you can send it to Centroid to have the calibration modified. Or you could remap the values elsewhere. In any event, you might want to sort that out before you install it.
 

Joel K

Supporter
Joel, it's good that you can easily service the fuel sender. Note that your modification to the tank will change the custom calibration for the stock SL-C tank. I think you can send it to Centroid to have the calibration modified. Or you could remap the values elsewhere. In any event, you might want to sort that out before you install it.
Thanks Scott, I had Centroid re-program it for 0-5v so it works with the AIM PDM. They were really good about it and did it at no charge.

I am just curious about mounting it using the cork with no sealant and if that is really the best practice.
 

Neil

Supporter
Thanks Scott, I had Centroid re-program it for 0-5v so it works with the AIM PDM. They were really good about it and did it at no charge.

I am just curious about mounting it using the cork with no sealant and if that is really the best practice.
I did that on the first car I built. Gas everywhere! :mad:
 
Top