Randy's RCR40 MKI

[Randy Folsom]

Jumping around in the build process. Decided i better install the wiper motor now before access is restricted by the dash.

First step was to verify that the shaft is 3-1/2”. I heard that some cars shipped with the shorter shaft version. Also, noted that the build manual is for a much different configuration so was of limited use.

I checked few cars in the parking lot to figure out the angle and height. I found that most have wiper shafts perpendicular to the windshield and the base of the wiper (bottom of the splines) is usually about 1/2” to 3/4” proud of the glass. My shaft angle measurement is 30 degrees.

I screwed down the spider and located a good spot on the spider’s bump for the hole. I used a 1/4” bit to drill down through the dash panel aluminum using an old 30/60/90 drafting triangle to eyeball the correct drill angle. I then used a step bit to enlarge the holes to 5/8”.

I made two 30 degree wedges with some scrap 1-1/4" x 1/8" aluminum 'C' channel. The lower one has two holes because I was planning on slotting it to allow for adjustment. Turned out the upper hole seems to be perfect.

Now I need to buy another nut. I am not going to rely on the fiberglass. Instead the shaft will be secured at the wedges. The nut and rubber washer that touches the fiberglass will be to prevent water leaks.

The last step was to fashion a bracket to hold the motor end of the unit. I bent some 1” x 1/16 aluminum strap in a Z. The tabs are about 1” and the center section is 1/2” long. Sorry, no pictures of the strap.

 

[Devin]

Jumping around in the build process. Decided i better install the wiper motor now before access is restricted by the dash.

First step was to verify that the shaft is 3-1/2”. I heard that some cars shipped with the shorter shaft version. Also, noted that the build manual is for a much different configuration so was of limited use.

I checked few cars in the parking lot to figure out the angle and height. I found that most have wiper shafts perpendicular to the windshield and the base of the wiper (bottom of the splines) is usually about 1/2” to 3/4” proud of the glass. My shaft angle measurement is 30 degrees.

I screwed down the spider and located a good spot on the spider’s bump for the hole. I used a 1/4” bit to drill down through the dash panel aluminum using an old 30/69/90 drafting triangle to eyeball the correct drill angle. I then used a step bit to enlarge the holes to 5/8”.

I made two 30 degree wedges with some scrap 1-1/4" x 1/8" aluminum 'C' channel. The lower one has two holes because I was planning on slotting it to allow for adjustment. Turned out the upper hole seems to be perfect.

Now I need to buy another nut. I am not going to rely on the fiberglass. Instead the shaft will be secured at the wedges. The nut and rubber washer that touches the fiberglass will be to prevent water leaks.

The last step was to fashion a bracket to hold the motor end of the unit. I bent some 1” x 1/16 aluminum strap in a Z. The tabs are about 1” and the center section is 1/2” long. Sorry, no pictures of the strap.

I too had to buy another nut for the wiper shaft as I wanted one on both sides of the fiberglass.

 

[Randy Folsom]

I am in Singapore until 11 Nov so I have plenty of time to contemplate next steps. I have most recently been thinking about the AC installation. Some ideas I hope to implement include.

• Making it easy to remove the compressor from the engine so I can remove the engine without having to disconnect the AC lines. This should only require an extra foot of hose to provide some slack and a connector for the signal wire.
• The compressor should be mounted with the ports to the high side, so going to use a March msnifold to redirect the ports to the side which should then allow me to use 90^ fittings to make it so the hoses can be run down between the compressor and timing chain cover.
• I want to minimize stuff in the frunk so planning to mount the trinary switch to the drier and then mount the drier to the condenser. The horn will also be mounted in the area in front of the radiator.
• Also in the frunk all the connections will be made with hard lines from the spine to the condenser and to the bulkhead.
• I want the lines close to the floor so will raise the radiator a bit to run the lines underneath. The gap will be closed with 3/4” x 1/16” aluminum 90 degree attached to the front edge of the floor.
• I want service ports on all three lines and to be readily accessible in the frunk.
• I want the evaporator to be easy to remove so
  • from the bulkhead to the evaporator will be rubber hose with a bit of slack,
  • the evaporator to plenum ports will be sealed with foam not silicone,
  • the evaporator mounting brackets will be All-Thread studs hanging down from the dash deck with cross bars underneath the evaporator. Rivnuts with jam nuts will hold the studs, and
  • the top of the evaporator will covered with 1/8” closed cell foam mat.
• I would like to maximize the open space in the spine so I can direct air into the spine for cooling. Thinking to install a NACA scoop in the floor between the Y created by the radiator hoses then make a duct to direct the air flow towards the spine opening.
  • The most space is gained using hard lines, but that may get negated if the hard lines need to be insulated. I will cover the hard lines with shrink wrap at a minimum. Hoping for insight from others regarding that.
  • If I do run hard lines in the spine I will separate the hot cooling tube in the bottom half from the cold cooling tube and the AC lines in the upper half with a radiant barrier. My coolant tubes are also insulated with fiberglass spark suppression tubing.
  • From the aft end of the spine to the compressor will be rubber hose.
  • If I spend an extra couple of hundred dollars I can use Vintage Air’s EZ Clip hose which is bigger than hard lines but smaller than reduced barrier hose.
• The plenum will be shortened about 2-1/4” on either end by shortening the bulge sections so as not to interferer with the six point cage should I decide to go that route.
• The holes in the dash deck for the 2-1/2” hose will be as far forward as possible so as to minimize kinked hose to the vents.
• The deck will be covered with 2mm Siless insulation and then the plenum will sit on top of that with a thin foam gasket and held in place with sheet metal screws. Hoping to minimize condensation.
• The entire area under the dash will be covered with 1/2” Cool It mat insulation to keep the giant magnifying glass (also referred to as the windshield) from baking the interior.

Not sure if I will use stainless steel or aluminum for the hard lines. Which ever is easiest to install service ports and male/female ends.

My plan with rubber hose in the spine is below. If I use hard lines in the spine then I will use 45^ fittings at the aft end of the spine and can just weld in ports after the bends at the forward end of the spine.

 

[Randy Folsom]

I think I have figured out the AC lines. Going for a minimalist look and trying to use as few connections as possible.

Only the hard lines will visible in the frunk. The fittings will be hidden in the spline, behind the bulkhead or in front of the radiator. The drier with the trinary switch will be mounted on the condenser out of view

The hard lines will be down on the floor on the far PS except where #8 and #10 exit the spine and where #6 and #10 enter the bulkhead. But even at these points the lines will be just a few inches from the floor.

The service ports will be at the evaporator. To make service easier there will be access holes in the back wall of the spare tire recess.

I have a solution for the engine bay as well. Formed hard lines from the March compressor manifold will loop down around the compressor body between the water pump and compressor. They will then bend towards the tub wall. The reduced barrier hose will go from the spine to the tub wall with enough slack to allow for removing the compressor without disconnecting any lines. Might add 45 or 90 degree hose spices to guide the exit from the spline.

The schematic and parts list have been updated.

 

[Darius Rudis]

FYI, I ordered from SummitRacing the Manifold for A/C & Heater lines...
Do NOT use the cheaper generic one (threads dont fit), use the more expensive one:

 

[Randy Folsom]

Thx for the manifold guidance. I see that both your radiator connections are on the bottom. Have you had any road experience with that setup yet?

 

[Howard Jones]

You might consider not using the heater at all. You'll never need it here in Texas. No really, you never use it in Texas. That will save a lot of room and complexity under the dash/ engine room. Also the heater core MAY make bleeding air out of the coolant system more difficult. Or you MAY need to add a bleed line from the heater core back to the header tank. I don't have a heater in my GT40 and have never needed one. California and Texas.

As far as hose types go I think I would just make or have made the usually rubber type with crimped on AC hose ends with the goal of as few fittings, feed throughs, bulkhead fittings as possible.. The leaks are always at the fittings/o-rings.

I would go thru the various panels with a hole and a rubber grommet. Simple and pretty much failure/leak proof. This way you can use one piece hoses as much as possible hoses.

 

[Randy Folsom]

You might consider not using the heater at all. You'll never need it here in Texas. No really, you never use it in Texas. That will save a lot of room and complexity under the dash/ engine room. Also the heater core MAY make bleeding air out of the coolant system more difficult. Or you MAY need to add a bleed line from the heater core back to the header tank. I don't have a heater in my GT40 and have never needed one. California and Texas.

As far as hose types go I think I would just make or have made the usually rubber type with crimped on AC hose ends with the goal of as few fittings, feed throughs, bulkhead fittings as possible.. The leaks are always at the fittings/o-rings.

I would go thru the various panels with a hole and a rubber grommet. Simple and pretty much failure/leak proof. This way you can use one piece hoses as much as possible hoses.

Definitely not doing heat and I agree, less fitting is more reliable. But I do like the look of the hard lines in the frunk. I may end up doing all reduced barrier hose because it’s faster to install. I can always go back and install hard lines later.

 

[David Garton]

Randy, You will need an expansion valve added or an orffice tube to convert your liquid freon into gas. I didn't see it in your drawing. Nice plan though.

 

[Randy Folsom]

Randy, You will need an expansion valve added or an orffice tube to convert your liquid freon into gas. I didn't see it in your drawing. Nice plan though.

David, Thx much for the feedback. Not sure if you are referring to service ports. The Vintage Air kit doesn’t come with any other components. As far as I understand there are two options. With the Vintage Air kit as provided by RCR there are two 90 degree fittings with service ports intended for use at the compressor which are #8 and #10. But since I plan to run the lines between the compressor and water pump I am moving the service ports to the evaporator which are #6 and #10. 6 and 10 are supposed to be better. Cheers, Randy

 

[Devin]

David, Thx much for the feedback. Not sure if you are referring to service ports. The Vintage Air kit doesn’t come with any other components. As far as I understand there are two options. With the Vintage Air kit as provided by RCR there are two 90 degree fittings with service ports intended for use at the compressor which are #8 and #10. But since I plan to run the lines between the compressor and water pump I am moving the service ports to the evaporator which are #6 and #10. 6 and 10 are supposed to be better. Cheers, Randy

Randy, I believe your expansion valve is probably located on the back of the evaporator unit where the hose connects are…at least mine is on this aftermarket one.

 

[Randy Folsom]

Randy, I believe your expansion valve is probably located on the back of the evaporator unit where the hose connects are…at least mine is on this aftermarket one.

Wolfman, Thx much for the clarification. I didn’t see any mention of expansion valve in the instructions or diagrams provided by Vintage Air so it most likely is part of the evaporator package along with the motor, heater, etc. as you noted. Cheers, Randy

 

[Howard Jones]

Here is a cool only small size Vintage Air unit. The small lower right fitting is the high pressure (liquid AN-6 evaporator inlet) as labeled on the above drawing. You can see the gold disk attached to the back of it. That is the expansion valve. I kind of think that the expansion valves are factory installed by Vintage Air.

 

[Randy Folsom]

Here is a cool only small size Vintage Air unit. The small lower right fitting is the high pressure (liquid AN-6 evaporator inlet) as labeled on the above drawing. You can see the gold disk attached to the back of it. That is the expansion valve. I kind of think that the expansion valves are factory installed by Vintage Air.

Thx. I am sure you are correct.
I wish the cool only units were available with top mounted outlets like the gen 2 mini. That would save a lot of space under the dash.