RCR40 GT40 MKI Build in Wisconsin

[Jeff B.]

I've found the photos on the build threads to be most helpful, so not sure how often I'll get long-winded explaining things here. If you have questions on something you see, feel free to ask and I can explain. I also document most build elements via video shorts that I post here - https://www.tiktok.com/@lakelakelakewi

I went and picked up my car from RCR in April. I was missing (documented and acknowledged beforehand by RCR) only driveshafts, AC and some other miscellaneous parts. I opted to purchase a G96 LSD transaxle from Fran and it was in the car.

I've only done the most basic elements to get started so far. As recommended by the (outdated) manual I undercoated the bottom and wheels wells in Rhino Liner. I used a silver tint liner on the bottom and black in the wheel wells. I rolled it on versus spraying an did lay down an etching primer beforehand. I powder coated some brackets, suspension control arms and other parts in my shop using a Wilwood sprayer and kitchen oven I bought on Marketplace for $50. Worked great and will save some waiting time (not money) for any other small parts I want to coat moving forward. I mounted my gas tanks by welding an aluminum flange onto the tank and running it straight through the outer pontoons. I also Rhino lined the bottom of the tank, although it probably wasn't necessary I'm hoping it might eliminate any squeaks or rattles.

 

[Chuck]

You are off to a great start.

Where in Wisconsin are you located?

Chuck

 

[Jeff B.]

You are off to a great start.

Where in Wisconsin are you located?

Chuck

Three Lakes, way north central area.

 

[Bill Kearley]

I only have a few minutes left! what's the delivery time on an RCR

 

[Jean-Marc]

Great start, but on the last photos, I see that you use bolts with black oxyde. You should use SST bolt instead of black oxyde steel, especially for the ones on the frame, because they will rust very quickly. I am sharing my experience, the car I am rebuliding was strored 12 years and everything that is not aluminum or SST is rusted.
The danger with SST on aluminum frame is the electrolytic couple due to the contacty of the two metal, to avoid any problem of aluminum that is transform to alumina and block the bolt, you put some cupper greas on the thread before assembly.

 

[Jeff B.]

Great start, but on the last photos, I see that you use bolts with black oxyde. You should use SST bolt instead of black oxyde steel, especially for the ones on the frame, because they will rust very quickly. I am sharing my experience, the car I am rebuliding was strored 12 years and everything that is not aluminum or SST is rusted.
The danger with SST on aluminum frame is the electrolytic couple due to the contacty of the two metal, to avoid any problem of aluminum that is transform to alumina and block the bolt, you put some cupper greas on the thread before assembly.

Thanks, I considered stainless but was concerned they wouldn’t be string enough. I can swap them pretty easy at this point.

 

[Jeff B.]

I only have a few minutes left! what's the delivery time on an RCR

Mine took about 14 months.

 

[Jeff B.]

Powder coated my engine parts and did some custom logo masking. Running the Lizard Skin on my back fire wall next and maybe installing my exhaust from GP Headers.

 

[Jeff B.]

Apparently a change was made to the steering rack right around the time I tool delivery of my car (April 2024). This new rack has a DD fitting coming out out of it that measures 20.1mm across. All of the supplied u-joints are 3/4" DD or about 19.05mm. Wondering if anyone has found a fitting for it or if you're having it modified? Thanks.

 

[Jeff B.]

Is there a specific reason people are mounting the reservoirs for the brake and clutch remotely? They seem to fit fine in the foot well and aren’t difficult to access through the panel underneath the spare tire cut out. Also, are you putting a backer plate or reinforcement on the floor mount?

 

[Jeff B.]

Any help identifying the locations of where these lines go from top to bottom? I’m thinking the tops feed the fronts but none of the pre bends seem to make any sense?

 

[Ian Anderson]

My guess would be the top two are for clutch and rear brakes…….probably run down the side sill.

Ian

 

[Clayton]

Is there a specific reason people are mounting the reservoirs for the brake and clutch remotely? They seem to fit fine in the foot well and aren’t difficult to access through the panel underneath the spare tire cut out. Also, are you putting a backer plate or reinforcement on the floor mount?

If the residual valves failed. The fluid could drain back from the calipers and overflow the reservoirs.

Clayton

 

[Jeff B.]

My guess would be the top two are for clutch and rear brakes…….probably run down the side sill.

Ian

I meant to say rears and accidentally typed fronts. I just can’t figure out how those bins nest into anywhere back there.

 

[Jeff B.]

Makes sense I guess. Though most of my old pick ups have master cylinders under the floor boards.

 

[Darius Rudis]

Any help identifying the locations of where these lines go from top to bottom? I’m thinking the tops feed the fronts but none of the pre bends seem to make any sense?

Heere are some photos to help:

 

[Jeff B.]

Heere are some photos to help:
View attachment 140680
View attachment 140681


View attachment 140682

Appreciated, thank you. I ended up doing everything for the fronts custom and bent my own NiCopp. The rears I did eventually figure out and they worked good. It was all those little runs that were a puzzle. Thanks again.

 

[Jeff B.]

I've been regularly uploading the build progress to TIkTok and now YouTube. For anyone who wants to follow either, here's what's up so far. Nothing in depth or how to, more just showing progress. YouTube only allows 6 uploads daily, I've got a dozen or so more installments waiting to upload.

Part 1:

Part 2:

Part 3:

Part 4:

 

[Jeff B.]

Frustration and disappointment continue with RCR. Coming up in September on the two year anniversary of ordering my RCR40 and I still don’t have my complete kit.

Missing the AC which holds up all of my dash and cooling, missing my clutch, which holds up any engine mockups and installation. Missing driveshafts, inconsequential at this point without a clutch, but missing nonetheless.

The “manual” is severely lacking and outdated. No mention of cooling install or AC. Very little guidance on much else. This forum is the only manual I’ve referenced with any confidence.

RCR is paid in full and rarely, if ever, responds to any correspondence. I’ve asked for an update on parts 4-5-6 times and nada. I can’t imagine there is any constraint or supply chain problem with these parts 2 years after they knew they were necessary. It’s just poor customer service and experience with the company. I bought the RCR knock off Hartwells at the ridiculous $1,100 price and no issue getting those parts lickety-split. What you purchase from RCR is an incomplete pile of (for the most part cheap) parts with a really nice chassis and suspension.

I understand running a business is always easier from someone else’s point of view, but RCR simply needs to do better and try harder.

 

[Fran Hall RCR]

Thanks for your input Jeff

I will share your post with all of the staff at RCR and our suppliers

We will endeavor to do better

Just as a point of reference I ordered an engine from one of the best in the business last week
John Kasse … the lead time 16 months and $65k
ZF transaxle … almost 20k and 12 months

Lead times and suppliers delays are part of this industry

Again, thanks for your post