Restarting my SLC project in West Texas
- Thread starter felizguy
- Start date
Copy/pasting this from Mason’s build thread ...
IIRC the LS motors require some amount of fluid flow between the out/in ports for the heater core (and is why everyone runs the Chevs of the 40s valve) in order for the thermostat to function correctly. I did a deep dive into this while I was working on my system -
socalslc.com
There’s a link on my blog to another site (pirates4x4 or something like that) which has a very in depth discussion pertinent to LS based motors.
There’s a link on my blog to another site (pirates4x4 or something like that) which has a very in depth discussion pertinent to LS based motors. Read this and you’ll learn just about everything you need to know about Collin an LS motor.
You want to run your vent lines into the surge tank because it’s at the highest point in your system. If you plumb it into your pump it won’t vent correctly, I don’t think your water pump will be able to scavenge the steam and you’re likely to overheat your engine.
IIRC the LS motors require some amount of fluid flow between the out/in ports for the heater core (and is why everyone runs the Chevs of the 40s valve) in order for the thermostat to function correctly. I did a deep dive into this while I was working on my system -
19. ‘Cause you’re hot then you’re cold
It seems there are a good number of areas I’ve been approaching with trepidation, I’m really starting to sound like a broken record! … well, add to it the engine coolant and air c…
socalslc.com
There’s a link on my blog to another site (pirates4x4 or something like that) which has a very in depth discussion pertinent to LS based motors. Read this and you’ll learn just about everything you need to know about Collin an LS motor.
You want to run your vent lines into the surge tank because it’s at the highest point in your system. If you plumb it into your pump it won’t vent correctly, I don’t think your water pump will be able to scavenge the steam and you’re likely to overheat your engine.
Great info, Cam, thanks a lot , so I wonder why there is a ton of videos of LS engine 4corner steam vents connected directly into the water pump (just tapped)Copy/pasting this from Mason’s build thread ...
IIRC the LS motors require some amount of fluid flow between the out/in ports for the heater core (and is why everyone runs the Chevs of the 40s valve) in order for the thermostat to function correctly. I did a deep dive into this while I was working on my system -
There’s a link on my blog to another site (pirates4x4 or something like that) which has a very in depth discussion pertinent to LS based motors.19. ‘Cause you’re hot then you’re cold
It seems there are a good number of areas I’ve been approaching with trepidation, I’m really starting to sound like a broken record! … well, add to it the engine coolant and air c…
There’s a link on my blog to another site (pirates4x4 or something like that) which has a very in depth discussion pertinent to LS based motors. Read this and you’ll learn just about everything you need to know about Collin an LS motor.
You want to run your vent lines into the surge tank because it’s at the highest point in your system. If you plumb it into your pump it won’t vent correctly, I don’t think your water pump will be able to scavenge the steam and you’re likely to overheat your engine.
Ken Roberts
Supporter
It's convenient but less than ideal.
I have a AC crimp kit you can borrow via UPS. Not sure how far "West" your West Texas is. I will be in Lubbock/Amarillo this summer racing and will be in Fort Stockton/Sanderson racing the last week of September.
I wonder if that has similar specs to the Gates blue stuff (also available in black). The Gates is rated for 300F and 250PSI. Safe for Methanol/Ethanol/Gas/Oil. We use it for fuel/oil/water. Works with push-loc fittings or hose barbs/clamps.
Strongly agree. Buy the tool. Buy an assortment of clamps (don't have to be Oetiker brand). I use them everywhere I don't expect to need to get the hose off. So if it needs to come off to R&R the engine, I use a hose clamp. Otherwise, I'm using these now. I used to use safety wire for those hoses, this is much quicker. AND.... no hose clamp end to get CUT ON.
I am the cutting myself all the time type, so I appreciate the tip . I absolutely hate those nasty clamp ends.
No place that I’m aware of - however - given the ability of these clamps to impart far more force, I would be careful to apply only a minimal amount of torque to them so as to not deform anything..Anywhere I can't use a the stepless clamps I use a T-bolt clamp. I'm so tired of cutting myself on a worm clamp.
Neil
Supporter
I've posted about Gates Powerband clamps before but you may not have seen it. These are heat-shrink clamps that are high strength plastic clamps which replace other types but offer better performance. One advantage is that they apply clamping force uniformly around the hose and they can conform to out-of-round fittings. To remove, melt a groove in them with a soldering iron; this leaves the hose undamaged.
I’m using these on my current build, and boy does it get expensive if you have to start cutting these for troubleshooting. Make sure you are happy with everything before you put the heat on these bad boys.
Wow!! very cool, never heard of them before. I am all over that, hopefully they are not super expensive. I am finding out that the oetiker clamps don't come in sizes above 1 inch diameter, so not an option for radiator hoses. Happy to have more elegant choices than ugly worm clamps . Thank you very much Neil.
Yes I was afraid of that. But still good to have good choices even if they are expensive.
rock auto has the best price if you buy in boxes of ten.
THANK YOU
Ken,
Pardon my ignorance , I am trying to order the bulkhead fittings for a/c lines and heater hoses, I can see the fittings coming out of the footbox, but what do the fittings look like on the other end (inside the foot box) is it an AN type fitting? Thanks
