does any body know what is the thread size for the olds steering wheel column bolt. I am installing the NRG adapter for a quick release instead of the weld, which I do not like. I am sure I need to secure it with a nut once is pressed in. I did do a search and could not find it . Thanks
Restarting my SLC project in West Texas
- Thread starter felizguy
- Start date
Ken Roberts
Supporter
M14x1.5
part number:
26056108
07829221
07845232
part number:
26056108
07829221
07845232
than you very much Ken
so this is the 5th time I move the steering column, first I centered it based on pedals, then centered it a couple of times based on the seat position,
then I set up the dashboard and this is what I found out . So it will be a little off center (1/4 inch or so from seat center) but will be centered on dashboard, feet will be a bit sideways , as far as I know that is universal. always a compromise
then I set up the dashboard and this is what I found out . So it will be a little off center (1/4 inch or so from seat center) but will be centered on dashboard, feet will be a bit sideways , as far as I know that is universal. always a compromise
Attachments
So I have been going crazy tryin to center the tub as good as possible, I could not figure out why everything was off by 8mm, left to right . It turns out the mold (and therefore the tub) is about 8mm off, that is why I could not get the groove where the spider sits to be equidistant to the frame form the passenger to the driver side . Also one side sits lower, so I think I am going to use kill mat or other form of insulation as a shim to get it centered . Hope this makes sense to you all. Please correct me if I am wrong .
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Joel K
Supporter
Hi Hector, I am certainly no expert on this subject but I have a recommendation Howard provided on one of my threads. Line up the steering and seat first. They may actually be on a slight angle but you want that steering wheel as centered as possible to the seat. after that you line up the pedals on the same angle as the seat. You would hope after you line up those three things that the steering column will be close to being centered in the binnacle. But that all depends where the dash centers after the body is mounted and how far from the center console you are mounting your seats.
If you look at post #71 Of my build thread, you can see how different the center position is between the standard seat, wide seat with RCR seat brackets and also wide seat with custom seat brackets which move the seat over to the center. Also keep in mind, some builders widen their center console which could change how the seat centers to the steering column and binnacle. My approach is to leave the center console stock width and move the seat as close to center as possible to clear the side impact bar Base which you and I both have.
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Joel K
Supporter
Hopefully someone will provide a recommendation who has completed the tub and body install.
I don’t think you worry about centering the tub, but just lock it down when the body is in it’s final position. A correctly mounted body should locate the interior tub and visa versa.
For my build, I am not even looking at the tub fitment until I am totally finished with the go-cart stage.
I think the overall order is something like the following:
1)Set suspension to correct ride height, zero toe and zero camber
2)Center the spider left-right and front-rear until you are happy
3)test fit doors
4)test fit front windshield
5)If all good, lock down tub and spyder
Joel K
Supporter
Hector,
See post #8 in this thread. This is Howard’s explanation on aligning the seat, steering column and pedals.
See post #8 in this thread. This is Howard’s explanation on aligning the seat, steering column and pedals.
Fitting RCR Stock seats with Side impact bars
Hi everyone, Looks like I ran into a fitment issue with the stock seats and brackets because I have the optional side impact bars. I am in the process of mounting the steering column and want to mount it relative to the seating position. Since my car was delivered in a crate many of the holes...
www.gt40s.com
Thanks Joel, as always , I appreciate your extensive feedback and suggestions. I wanted to get the tub positioned as well as possible since it is critical for the spider placement, and the tub determines the dashboard , and the dashboard has to be close for steering shaft and wheel.
I want to have a custom center console so I can figure out where all the electrical switches are going to go, which will determine length of pig tails and so on . I agree with the order of fitment, I am ready to set the suspension, I got the jig ready to go and cut 4x4 wood stumps at 41/2 inches for the front and 5 inches for the rear , then I will center the tub and spider. (and of course doors and windshield) Ordered some countersunk 10/32 bolts countersunk washers ( and a countersunk drill bit) to mate and secure the tub and spider together like Cam did . then I can center the dashboard and start on my fiberglass 101 skills to make a center console and start figuring out where all the switches go, which then will determine the placement of the master cells and power cells.
The only thing I am leaving , and maybe I shouldn't is mating the Graziano, now that the pilot bearing is set I have everything I need , just need to get it done .
Hope all is great with your build Joel
I want to have a custom center console so I can figure out where all the electrical switches are going to go, which will determine length of pig tails and so on . I agree with the order of fitment, I am ready to set the suspension, I got the jig ready to go and cut 4x4 wood stumps at 41/2 inches for the front and 5 inches for the rear , then I will center the tub and spider. (and of course doors and windshield) Ordered some countersunk 10/32 bolts countersunk washers ( and a countersunk drill bit) to mate and secure the tub and spider together like Cam did . then I can center the dashboard and start on my fiberglass 101 skills to make a center console and start figuring out where all the switches go, which then will determine the placement of the master cells and power cells.
The only thing I am leaving , and maybe I shouldn't is mating the Graziano, now that the pilot bearing is set I have everything I need , just need to get it done .
Hope all is great with your build Joel
Joel K
Supporter
Sounds like a good plan Hector. I did check my tub and it‘s height is even on both sides Of the rear chassis cross member. Happy to take any tub measurements you need to see how things compare. When I put the body on briefly I thought side to side it was well centered. With regard to tire fitment the driver side of the body seems set back about a half inch where the passenger wheels were perfectly centered in the wells. It will interesting to see how our builds differ in that regard.
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glad to hear yours is a good fit. The one thing I am worried about is if the tub is not well centered relative to the frame, how can I move the spider around , since it fits on the grooves? the tub is the key for body alignment as far as I know . Right? That is why I am trying so hard to get the tub oriented relative to the frame as good as possible, then maybe fine tuning the spider and rest of body parts will be easier, we will see. Thanks for offering the measurements, I think I am good on that . Planning to start the alignment tonight .
I just feel like I am spinning my wheels for the last 2-3 weeks, no significant visible progress, just lots of thinking , planning and ordering parts. Hopefully I can start with the center console soon and shortly after that all the electrical stuff.
I did order a fuel pump controller , so that the high pressure pump will only go full blast when demand is high , the rest of the time will run easier, less noise and heat , have not decided how to wire the low pressure fuel pump yet, may also use a controller for it, or just a relay.
I also have not 100% figured out how to control the a/c compressor so that it does not over rev and blow up.
Other than that I think I finally have a good grasp on the entire electrical system , when to use ISIS, and when not (fuel pumps)
I just feel like I am spinning my wheels for the last 2-3 weeks, no significant visible progress, just lots of thinking , planning and ordering parts. Hopefully I can start with the center console soon and shortly after that all the electrical stuff.
I did order a fuel pump controller , so that the high pressure pump will only go full blast when demand is high , the rest of the time will run easier, less noise and heat , have not decided how to wire the low pressure fuel pump yet, may also use a controller for it, or just a relay.
I also have not 100% figured out how to control the a/c compressor so that it does not over rev and blow up.
Other than that I think I finally have a good grasp on the entire electrical system , when to use ISIS, and when not (fuel pumps)
Howard Jones
Supporter
Aline chassis and suspension with no camber (straight up and down) and no toe (straight forward) all four corners. Set all lower a arms all the way inboard. (shortest length). This setup will give you room to add camber later and is a good body install baseline setup. With tires on car at normal rideheight........then........................the body.
Do not forget that the only thing you cannot tweak is the windshield. It WILL NOT BEND TO FIT! Once you have a pretty good location on the spider try and place the windshield in it. See what you have. MAKE the fiberglass fit the windshield within a 1/8 inch or so. LESS is better! But that much you can fill with adhesive if you have to. Now check how the spider fits on the chassis. Grind, fill, heat, reshape etc. to get as close to center as possible AND still fit the windshield! locate the spider on the chassis with hardware and mark its location. From now on it should be possible to place it back onto the chassis and it will be the exact same spot that fits the windshield correctly.
Everything else indexes from this. I think the front clip should be next ( front tires turn the rears don't) then the rear clip.
Do not forget that the only thing you cannot tweak is the windshield. It WILL NOT BEND TO FIT! Once you have a pretty good location on the spider try and place the windshield in it. See what you have. MAKE the fiberglass fit the windshield within a 1/8 inch or so. LESS is better! But that much you can fill with adhesive if you have to. Now check how the spider fits on the chassis. Grind, fill, heat, reshape etc. to get as close to center as possible AND still fit the windshield! locate the spider on the chassis with hardware and mark its location. From now on it should be possible to place it back onto the chassis and it will be the exact same spot that fits the windshield correctly.
Everything else indexes from this. I think the front clip should be next ( front tires turn the rears don't) then the rear clip.
I have noticed that a few people have wrestled with the steering column/ seat/ pedal alignment issues. Just a point to ponder Many mass manufactured cars as well as a lot of the race cars I have been in do not line up as common sense would assume. You just adjust and don't even notice it. Take a look in a few cars I guarantee you will see some misalignments. I've even seen steering columns slanted to the side a few degrees as designed. My SLC has the column straight up from the rack and that leaves it a quarter of an inch off the center of the main instrument cluster.
Thanks Howard. Notes taken. I am working on alignment right now and then build from there.
Great to know. This fitment stuff is giving me a major headache
2 inches? really? Wow!! I am not doing too bad then
That would drive me totally bananas
Joel K
Supporter
So this is Howard's idea for alignment frame , Bass Pro shop version . I can send you the blueprints if you want
Yes Hector, please send. Thanks!
