Roaring Forties 66
- Thread starter otto69
- Start date
Clayton
Supporter
Bulkhead window will be glued in and a trim to cover the edges.
Spider glued and riveted in place. Sat the windscreen in for a test fit.
Rear bulkhead panels edge sealed to the spider, then insulated.
Clayton
Spider glued and riveted in place. Sat the windscreen in for a test fit.
Rear bulkhead panels edge sealed to the spider, then insulated.
Clayton
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Dr. Bob Woods
Supporter
Clayton,
I have to tell you how much I appreciate this thread. First, I admire you for the absolutely meticulous job you are doing and how special this car must be. Incredible workmanship and attention to detail and finish. Second, I really like to see this build develop in such a short time. I think you might have done it right to publish the build after it is built. I might have not remembered where you were if it was spread out over multiple years.
Well done! Keep it up. You are giving me a lot of ideas to think about on my build.
-Bob Woods
I have to tell you how much I appreciate this thread. First, I admire you for the absolutely meticulous job you are doing and how special this car must be. Incredible workmanship and attention to detail and finish. Second, I really like to see this build develop in such a short time. I think you might have done it right to publish the build after it is built. I might have not remembered where you were if it was spread out over multiple years.
Well done! Keep it up. You are giving me a lot of ideas to think about on my build.
-Bob Woods
Clayton
Supporter
Time for the body
First place to start was the radiator / brake duct opening. I wanted to extend the walls of the ducts to give it some depth. Also double skin the lower opening to clean up that area.
Made the moulds from alloy, and then laid fibre glassed on them.
The lower edge has a dogleg in it so that a bolt-in panel (off the chassis ) will fill the area, stopping air from bypassing the radiator.
Clayton
First place to start was the radiator / brake duct opening. I wanted to extend the walls of the ducts to give it some depth. Also double skin the lower opening to clean up that area.
Made the moulds from alloy, and then laid fibre glassed on them.
The lower edge has a dogleg in it so that a bolt-in panel (off the chassis ) will fill the area, stopping air from bypassing the radiator.
Clayton
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Clayton
Supporter
Opened up all three NACA ducts.
The centre one was hitting the chassis, so I had to cut it out and make a shallower floor. At the same time extended the duct rearward to make it look right.
For the outboard ones, I made an open ended duct to give them a purposeful look.
Clayton
The centre one was hitting the chassis, so I had to cut it out and make a shallower floor. At the same time extended the duct rearward to make it look right.
For the outboard ones, I made an open ended duct to give them a purposeful look.
Clayton
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Clayton
Supporter
Next inline was the rear wheel arches.
I have never liked seeing daylight above a tyre, even though it may come from the factory like that.
Working with the loaded tyre radius and chassis ground clearance, I needed to lower the arch by 50mm on the left and 45mm on the right to have 15mm of tyre cover.
Used some ply as my template, added foam to build it up and then bogged to the final shape.
Clayton
I have never liked seeing daylight above a tyre, even though it may come from the factory like that.
Working with the loaded tyre radius and chassis ground clearance, I needed to lower the arch by 50mm on the left and 45mm on the right to have 15mm of tyre cover.
Used some ply as my template, added foam to build it up and then bogged to the final shape.
Clayton
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Clayton
Supporter
Took a mould off the new guard extension and before I removed it, I drilled holes for skin pins.
Had some good advice from an old fibre glass man. He told me to make the buck / extension, lay up the mould then skin pin it. Remove the mould and cut away all of the added stuff (bog / foam etc) and taper out the glass to a feather edge.
Refit the mould with skin pins (perfectly located) add the gel coat and finish with several layers of glass. Great thing is, you made the part and fitted it in one go.
Clayton
Had some good advice from an old fibre glass man. He told me to make the buck / extension, lay up the mould then skin pin it. Remove the mould and cut away all of the added stuff (bog / foam etc) and taper out the glass to a feather edge.
Refit the mould with skin pins (perfectly located) add the gel coat and finish with several layers of glass. Great thing is, you made the part and fitted it in one go.
Clayton
Attachments
Hi Clayton
Like David I am also enjoying this thread...
Well done.. Great to watch and very informative
Cheers Craig Young
Like David I am also enjoying this thread...
Well done.. Great to watch and very informative
Cheers Craig Young
Hi Craig, absolutely incredible job on building your GT 40!!!! I own a CAV with the 016 Audi trans and was wondering where you found the 3:22 ring and pinion, I have a 4:11 in mine and would like to change to something more reasonable, any help much appreciated, thanks, Neville.:shy:
Hi Neville
Sorry but this great build thread is Clayton's.
I also have a 016 with a 3.89 final drive but at this stage not planning to change the ring and pinion.
When I have started the chassis and have something to show I will start my own build thread but for now I will be watching and learning.
Cheers Craig Young
Sorry but this great build thread is Clayton's.
I also have a 016 with a 3.89 final drive but at this stage not planning to change the ring and pinion.
When I have started the chassis and have something to show I will start my own build thread but for now I will be watching and learning.
Cheers Craig Young
Clayton
Supporter
Onto the driver’s door and Gurney bubble install.
The gap lines were a bit big on the roof section. Feathered out the edge to a point and laid glass both sides.
Centred the bubble over the seat centre line and as far back as possible (could have gone back a bit further if the door allowed).
Recessed the bubble into the roof by the thickness of its flange, so the roof could remain flat up until the start of the bubble.
Clayton
The gap lines were a bit big on the roof section. Feathered out the edge to a point and laid glass both sides.
Centred the bubble over the seat centre line and as far back as possible (could have gone back a bit further if the door allowed).
Recessed the bubble into the roof by the thickness of its flange, so the roof could remain flat up until the start of the bubble.
Clayton
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Clayton
Supporter
With the door off, I was going to keep the inner roof panel and flare it into the bubble, but the inner skin had a bulge and hung low (3/4” in the middle).
Cut the whole inner door roof skin out, filled the edges with expandable foam.
Added 6mm cork tiles to act as a core for the next layer of glass.
Bogged up all the gaps and smoothed it out.
Laid several layers of glass to finish off the inner skin.
Clayton
Cut the whole inner door roof skin out, filled the edges with expandable foam.
Added 6mm cork tiles to act as a core for the next layer of glass.
Bogged up all the gaps and smoothed it out.
Laid several layers of glass to finish off the inner skin.
Clayton
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Clayton
Supporter
Had a small break from fibreglassing and the dreaded itching and started on the door seals, clips locks.
The over centre latches for the clips had nothing substantial to bolt to the chassis. Added angles to the chassis to support the sill panel at the latch mount.
The front door seal plates get sandwiched between the chassis and dash and follow the door inner skin. The sill seal holder completes the full door seal.
Clayton
The over centre latches for the clips had nothing substantial to bolt to the chassis. Added angles to the chassis to support the sill panel at the latch mount.
The front door seal plates get sandwiched between the chassis and dash and follow the door inner skin. The sill seal holder completes the full door seal.
Clayton
Attachments
Clayton
Supporter
In order to keep the door striker plates as short as possible (less chance of catching them while getting in and out. I added a 10mm spacer to the drivers catch and 20mm to the passengers catch so they just cleared the door seal.
Door rear edge rubbed on the door seal, cut it right back and re-glassed.
Clayton
Door rear edge rubbed on the door seal, cut it right back and re-glassed.
Clayton
Attachments
Clayton
Supporter
The rear clip needed quite a bit of extra glass added to the sill shut line area to bring it up in alignment with the spider.
Made some locating pins and receptacles that would hold the panel gap constant.
Pinched the idea from Chris (flatchat).
Clayton
Made some locating pins and receptacles that would hold the panel gap constant.
Pinched the idea from Chris (flatchat).
Clayton
