Rod C's Ohio RCR40

[Rod Chaffee]

Hi Rod,
I am doing a similar build, Prestige 347, and Porsche G96, with similar CVF front end kit, can you please tell me what thermostat housing, and thermostat you are using?
Regards
Jeff

Hi Jeff
Thermostat housing - from summit - CSR 9111C - here is the link - it is adjustable because I am not sure which direction it need to point yet.
Thermostat - from summit - Mr Gasket hiflow 180 deg C- here is the link - I run 180 deg tsats in most of my vehicles.
I do not know if these are going to work. I have not set the engine yet and have not started it yet.

 

[Rod Chaffee]

I have decided to go with a different set of engine mounts. I bought these from Paul Horton Welder's series.
I have used a Paul Horton four link rear suspension in my old hot rod pickup & it works well. If you need brackets, tabs, threaded rods, or other hot rod/car building bits and pieces, nose around on their website.
I plan to weld these the RCR chassis mounts provided with my kit. This should result in an easy to get to, single bolt engine mount. Since these are semi-DIY, I will be able to locate my engine vertically to get it level and as low as possible. As stated above, I am going to see if I can use the lower horseshoe mounts to get my engine down low. I need to watch so the oil pan does become the low point. More to come on this topic.

 

[jeff wilkinson]

Hi Jeff
Thermostat housing - from summit - CSR 9111C - here is the link - it is adjustable because I am not sure which direction it need to point yet.
Thermostat - from summit - Mr Gasket hiflow 180 deg C- here is the link - I run 180 deg tsats in most of my vehicles.
I do not know if these are going to work. I have not set the engine yet and have not started it yet.

Rod,
Many thanks my friend.
Regards
Jeff

 

[Jean-Marc]

Hi Jeff
Thermostat housing - from summit - CSR 9111C - here is the link - it is adjustable because I am not sure which direction it need to point yet.
Thermostat - from summit - Mr Gasket hiflow 180 deg C- here is the link - I run 180 deg tsats in most of my vehicles.
I do not know if these are going to work. I have not set the engine yet and have not started it yet.

180 degre F

 

[Vinny P]

Also like several others, my RCR passenger door is a wreck! the inner front corner is way deep while the rear is way high. I will be applying weight, heat and shims in an attempt to square this door up. The driver side door is pretty good. It has a little warpage, but my heatweightshim tool seems to have gotten it corrected.
View attachment 141179View attachment 141178View attachment 141180

I did the same thing, my door was so bad, I also had to cut a slot between the roof panel and the inner panel in that front corner spread it apart and fiberglass it in place.

 

[Rod Chaffee]

Well, it has been a while, but I continue to chip away at building this car.
I prepared my headers to be sent off and coated. I 1st had to do a test fit. I am going with straight pipes & spiral inserts. I welded an O2 bung into each straight pipe for my EFI system. I also took a picture of each pipe, labeled for location, so I could put this puzzle back together after coating. The pipes are all back and look great.

 

[Rod Chaffee]

I have my plenum trimmed, shortend (for roll bar clearance) and ready to be put in place. You can see I cut off the high part of the plenum to ease dash in and out. I will use the defrost as set up with the vintage air system. The two defrost ports go right up through the dash and dash vents go through the plenum.

 

[Rod Chaffee]

I got my dash all cleaned up, sanded, smoothed, primered, painted.



Here you can see the holes for the defrost.


I have not wired it yet, but it is looking pretty good. I covered the top with a stretchy self stick fabric from Amazon. It went on pretty well. I went around the edges with epoxy in an attempt to keep it from becoming unstuck over time. Who knows how long it will last?
I also printed a demister grill on the 3D printer, whih you can see laying on the bench under the dash.

 

[Rod Chaffee]

I am waiting on a flywheel from RCR to get my engine and transaxle in for good. I ordered it after I received the car, so the delay is a bit of my fault. We all know it takes some time to get parts from RCR. In the meantime I have been working on lighting...
Tailights were pretty straightforward, cut a hole, shove in the light and figure a way to mount it. I used a simple u shaped bracket that pulls the light into the hole, like old school instument gauges.

Headlights are a lot trickier. I made up two mounting brackets and glassed them in. I made a bit of a mistake and put them sort of flush with the plane of the headlight. I should have glassed them in further to the front of the car to pull the headlight in further forward. The headlights do stick through the holes, but I wish the could protrude through further.

As you can see, I also mounted up driving lights. These are a good fit, ovalish Hella FF75 driving light. I made a simple aluminum bracket with 2 bolts through the front of the car. They are up high & unless you lay down under the car, you cannot see the bolts. I hope the lights are low enough that they actually put out light in front of the car. If they do not provide much light they at least look good, IMHO.

Also, as you can see, I put in the marker/blinker light. I used a rivot to hold it in place, assuming this is how it should be done. It will take 3 rivots for perminant installation, but I need to get it wired and such (paint?) before that takes place.

 

[Rod Chaffee]

And I used the small push button Quik-latch dodads to hold in my front nostril. These were a little tricky to get placed and aligend properly for repeatative intallation and removal. I have to remove this panel to swing the front clam open, do to my pivot point and the nostril hitting the radiator. If I cut the nostril for clearance, I am cutting away too much. Is this common?

& I added to rubber adjustable hood stops to keep the front of the front clamshell level with the spider when closed. I hope these will keep things still and in place when driving. I also installed Aerocatch hood pins in that area to help keep things in place. Maybe not necessary, but done now.

 

[Jean-Marc]

And I used the small push button Quik-latch dodads to hold in my front nostril. These were a little tricky to get placed and aligend properly for repeatative intallation and removal. I have to remove this panel to swing the front clam open, do to my pivot point and the nostril hitting the radiator. If I cut the nostril for clearance, I am cutting away too much. Is this common?
View attachment 149641View attachment 149640View attachment 149639
& I added to rubber adjustable hood stops to keep the front of the front clamshell level with the spider when closed. I hope these will keep things still and in place when driving. I also installed Aerocatch hood pins in that area to help keep things in place. Maybe not necessary, but done now.
View attachment 149643View attachment 149642

I think that the part of the fastener with the spring should be mounted on the back side of the panel, if not the top part of the fastner will transmit the holding force on the two rivets only instead on the cup side of the bottom fastener.

 

[Rod Chaffee]

I think that the part of the fastener with the spring should be mounted on the back side of the panel, if not the top part of the fastner will transmit the holding force on the two rivets only instead on the cup side of the bottom fastener.

Good point, I did not think about that. Easy enough to move them to the other side, drill out two rivots & replace. Thanks for the advice.

 

[Klaf]

Where did you pick up the hood stops

 

[Rod Chaffee]

Where did you pick up the hood stops

These are the stops I used.

Scott Drake C5ZZ-16763-S Scott Drake Hood Bump Stops | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Scott Drake Hood Bump Stops with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Hood Bump Stops at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

 

[Vinny P]

And I used the small push button Quik-latch dodads to hold in my front nostril. These were a little tricky to get placed and aligend properly for repeatative intallation and removal. I have to remove this panel to swing the front clam open, do to my pivot point and the nostril hitting the radiator. If I cut the nostril for clearance, I am cutting away too much. Is this common?
View attachment 149641View attachment 149640View attachment 149639
& I added to rubber adjustable hood stops to keep the front of the front clamshell level with the spider when closed. I hope these will keep things still and in place when driving. I also installed Aerocatch hood pins in that area to help keep things in place. Maybe not necessary, but done now.
View attachment 149643View attachment 149642

Hi Rod, how are you? Where did you get those quick latches, and what size are they? I have the flush mount type, and they don't work without modification to the body

 

[Rod Chaffee]

Hi Rod, how are you? Where did you get those quick latches, and what size are they? I have the flush mount type, and they don't work without modification to the body

I got these through Summit
Here are the latches - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/QUL-QL-25-SB1
I bought them 1st & then realized the pins are way too high and needed the cups to lower the pins.
Here are the cups - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/QUL-QL-25-B
And here are the springs to push the panel up (these do not work really well...) - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/QUL-QL-25-AS

 

[Rod Chaffee]

I received the much needed flywheel from RCR last week. Now I can move on to getting the engine in, fuel system done, wiring and FIRE THIS THING UP! My goal has been to start it this year, which is still possible if I get it in gear. Here are a few pics of connecting engine to transaxle and preparing for the install.

 

[Rod Chaffee]

I am still chipping away at this project. Engine and transaxle are in. I have been working on fuel system plumbing. I am using hard lines in some areas - in the tank sponsons and to deliver fuel from the passenger side tank. All of my pumps are on the driver side. I will use fuel line and clamps for low pressure and 6AN lines for high pressure. Low pressure to swirl pot and high pressure to the Holley Sniper. I am using Facet Dura-lift pumps to pull from the tanks and fill the swirl pot, one for each side. I have a diverter valve to ensure the excess fuel is returned to the proper tank. Here is a view of the lines inside the sponsons. I am terrible at taking pictures as I go. I will be better.

 

[Rod Chaffee]

I have also been running wires. There are a lot of wires going all over the place. It is a challenge to get them all prepped and ready before putting the dash in. Here is the fuse panel. I have tucked it up under the dash by the drivers left leg.

 

[Rod Chaffee]

And pedals...I have fabbed up a throttle bracket and a clutch safety switch. I was back and forth, back and forth on the clutch safety switch. At the end of the day I decided to put one in. I currently have the relay mounted to the safety switch bracket. I will use bullet terminals to connect the power to the relay so if something down there fails I can bypass the safety switch & get home.
I will use a toggle ignition switch & a push button start, no key. 3 switches in the left hand panel, 1st is low pressure fuel switch, 2nd is ignition switch, 3rd is push button start. Turn on low pressure fuel, turn on ignition, hit the go button is the plan.