Rod End Lifetime and Wear

[Walter]

Hello:
Do any of you owners of a GT40 with Heim jointed suspension (using rod ends and spherical bearings) have any experience regarding wear and lifetime of the bearings? In particular, when the car is used on public roads, in my case a RCR40? Stories are merely around 10000km???
Any comments on where to obtain high quality rod ends (I hava a catalogue from Aurora)?
Greetings to all of you!

 

[Jim Dewar]

Hello:
Do any of you owners of a GT40 with Heim jointed suspension (using rod ends and spherical bearings) have any experience regarding wear and lifetime of the bearings? In particular, when the car is used on public roads, in my case a RCR40? Stories are merely around 10000km???
Any comments on where to obtain high quality rod ends (I hava a catalogue from Aurora)?
Greetings to all of you!

I only drive public roads, Aurora rod ends still good @ 54,000 miles.

 

[Neil]

Hello:
Do any of you owners of a GT40 with Heim jointed suspension (using rod ends and spherical bearings) have any experience regarding wear and lifetime of the bearings? In particular, when the car is used on public roads, in my case a RCR40? Stories are merely around 10000km???
Any comments on where to obtain high quality rod ends (I hava a catalogue from Aurora)?
Greetings to all of you!

There are many types of spherical rod end bearings, some with a mild steel ball, some with a hardened ball. The main difference is the liner used between the ball and the housing. Some use no liner, so they must be lubricated frequently- a nuisance. Others use a molded Nylon injected in between the ball and housing, and others use a Teflon liner. Generally, price is a good indicator of quality... but not always.

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

Aurora is what is used on the Superformance chassis. They are high quality and when purchased from an authorized retailer you are reasonably assured of getting real Aurora units, not counterfeit "knock-offs" of questionably quality. There are arguments pro/con about lubricating non-lined bearings. Some claim a spray with brake cleaner and then spray lube is the ticket, others say lubing just makes grit and contaminants adhere to the ball and hastens wear.

 

[Randy V]

Heim / Rose joints are aircraft & racecar parts. The former not nearly as abusive to the joints as running on the tracks and roads. I have harped, for years, that these joints absolutely require frequent (I call that 500 miles or less) cleanings, inspections and lubrication.
I have seen some of these joints with nylon liners that come very close to seizing up when washed with Chloronated Brake Cleaner that causes the liners to swell. So I advise the use of a more mild solvent. WD40 is not acceptable as a lubricant. Chain Lube (motorcycle use) or even simple two-stroke engine oil works well - wipe off excess.
Yes - Aurora makes one of the best and are worth seeking out. If you find a joint with an associated Mil-Spec number on it - you’re on the right track..

 

[Walter]

Heim / Rose joints are aircraft & racecar parts. The former not nearly as abusive to the joints as running on the tracks and roads. I have harped, for years, that these joints absolutely require frequent (I call that 500 miles or less) cleanings, inspections and lubrication.
I have seen some of these joints with nylon liners that come very close to seizing up when washed with Chloronated Brake Cleaner that causes the liners to swell. So I advise the use of a more mild solvent. WD40 is not acceptable as a lubricant. Chain Lube (motorcycle use) or even simple two-stroke engine oil works well - wipe off excess.
Yes - Aurora makes one of the best and are worth seeking out. If you find a joint with an associated Mil-Spec number on it - you’re on the right track..

Hi Randy: Thanks for your comments (and everybody else's). What do you think of (Teflon-based) non-stick dry-film lubricants (DuPond, WD-40 Dry Lube, and similar)?
Any comments on the quality of rod ends on the RCR40s?

 

[Randy V]

Hi Randy: Thanks for your comments (and everybody else's). What do you think of (Teflon-based) non-stick dry-film lubricants (DuPond, WD-40 Dry Lube, and similar)?
Any comments on the quality of rod ends on the RCR40s?

Dry lubes are very good as long as they spray on (wet) so you get full distribution. Sometimes the only way to get full lubrication is to disassemble the pivot end of the joint, so you can roll the ball through the full range.

 

[Howard Jones]

Randy is totally on the mark, all though I never have used cjhain lube myself on rod ends. Heres the lube I use. I clean them first with alcohol in a squirt bottle.

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www.lowes.com

Also it is importnat to "clock" both rodends on either end of an assembly to prevent lost of anglular travel of the individual joints.