Show Me Your Side Windows!

[Bill D]

I would like to see pictures of side windows so I can get an idea of the number of fasteners used.

Thanks
Bil D

 

[Ron McCall]

How's this Bill? I used 25 in each side window.

 

[Bill D]

Thanks Ron. That's what I'm looking for

 

[Neal]

Ron,

How did you create the black border on the plex?

 

[Mark Charlton]

The way I did mine (including front lamp covers, back window etc.) was to remove the window, mask a clear strip a consistent distance from the edge and spray it black. The finish doesn't matter much because it's against the body and can't be seen. You'll see the paint through the lexan and it will look great if your coverage is good. I set an X-acto blade in a block with a tab on the edge (that hooked over the edge of the lexan) to use a consistent cut along the perimeter. You do end up scoring the lexan slightly when you cut through the mask, but it is invisible unless you're really heavy-handed.

Good luck!

 

[Neal]

Thanks for the advice. Looks line a weekend project. I really like the finished look. For reference...

 

[Mark Charlton]

Any time, Neal. By the way, I don't think those webbers look very good. I think you should pull them off and send them to me for proper disposal...

I must say, I like the black screws that Ron used. I think he mentioned once how he did them, but I can't remember. I just used stainless because the yellow nylon ones looked crappy (to me).

 

[CraigB]

I've got this pic of chassis 1049 - hope it's of some use Looks like 21 rivets/screws

 

[Chris Martino]

I counted a few more screws in the chassis 1010 pic I have so - monkey see, monkey do!

MDA supplied me with a 3/8th black gasket/foam for the windows and light covers but will probably only use it one the windows.

Chris

 

[Bill D]

Thanks guys. These pictures are really helpful. It appears that each car was different.

 

[Lloyd]

Black borders. I bought 1/8 vinyl masking tape at the autobody supply store. The 1/8 tape lets you lay down a nice straight line and still get nice tight radius in the corner. I laid out 3/4" strips all the way arround the outside to establish a 3/4" border. Then just laid 1/8" tape along the inside edges. remove all of the 3/4 border sizing pieces. Next mask off the center and lay tape up and onto the 1/8" tape. Paint whats left. the 1/8" tape leaves a clean crisp line.

ERA provided 1/16" foam tape to form all the window gaskets. You really can't tighten the screws tight enough to stop water from trickling in. If you do you'll deform the window. The foam does stop the wearing of the black border paint on the inside of the windows.

All i can say is practice on the scap pieces before drilling the real windows. I cracked two rear windshields before i got smart. Practice to get the feel when the drill wants to grab and pull through. You really have to establish the feel. To get really good practice to see how close you can get to the edge without cracking the plexi. use the same thickness as the real window. I found the thicker stuff is harder to drill without cracking. slow slow and keep your finger over the back side you'll feel the bit getting closer.
Warning this would be the time to slow the speed and lighten the preasure and most important remove the finger from the path. I learned this one the hard way.



Good luck

LLoyd

 

[Ron McCall]

Sorry it took me so long to get back to this thread. I used regular black electrical tape and placed it around the outside of the window.I then used it as a guide for the 3M " 1/4" fine line tape" Once the 3M tape was on,I removed the electrical tape,masked the rest of the window,scuffed the area with 600 grit and painted it.
As for the black screws,they are nylon and I got them from McMaster Carr.
They were like $10 for a box of 100! They worked GREAT! The nylon is much easier on the fiberglass threads than stainless so I don't think I will need inserts.I have taken some of them out numerous times and the threads still look perfect.