SL-C Approach angle?

[Larry L.]

2 small dolly wheels and a tow bar hitch would have made that a snap...:thumbsup:

Nooooooooope.

Raising the GT's nose via dolly wheels DROPS the tail of the car down to where the rear diffuser would have draaaaagged on the concrete in at least 2-3 separate locations. Conversely, putting the dolly wheels under the GT's REAR wheels and towing the car backwards would have resulted in the car's chin spoiler grinding on the concrete darned near everywhere because of the 3 ft overhang ahead of the car's front wheels.

Remember, we're dealing with a Ford GT here...not a GT40.

Trust me...re-grading the driveway was THEE ONLY painless answer.

 

[Mike]

For those that don't know, the SLC has had a hydraulic lift kit option for years; nothing needs to be built. You can check out the details at Home

If you already have some high end shocks and want a slightly more cost effective solution albeit somewhat of a hack, that is not a bad choice.

 

[Will Campbell]

If you already have some high end shocks and want a slightly more cost effective solution albeit somewhat of a hack, that is not a bad choice.

Can you explain what, in your opinion, makes the Ram Lift system a hack?

 

[Bill]

I'm going to suggest a crazy idea that is pure blaspheme for a SLC. The more sensitive gear-heads may want to hold on to your chairs.

For a street machine, you need to make some compromises to accommodate road conditions not found on a track. Obstacles like steep driveways, curbs, speed-bumps, and road-kill are to be anticipated. The optional front suspension lift rams will help you get over the more sever of obstacles. But forgetting or mis-judging a single obstacle could result in an expensive repair.

Raising the ride height just slightly can make the SLC much more livable on the street. I raised my ride height to:

• Front 4.75" (at the front corner of the tub)
• Rear 5.25"

There is no noticeable impact to the handing and I'm able to clear most road hazards. There is still some minor bottom scraping, but no real damage. In fact, I have 2000 miles on my car and haven't needed to use the front lift yet.

 

[Mike]

Can you explain what, in your opinion, makes the Ram Lift system a hack?

It's a one size fits all regarding the ID of the ram as well as the collars and perches. For a little more money you can have a shock and ram that are designed together as a unit.

 

[P Roth]

It's a one size fits all regarding the ID of the ram as well as the collars and perches. For a little more money you can have a shock and ram that are designed together as a unit.

Maybe a little more than a little more money. JRI makes them, the single adjustable are $5600.00, add another $1000.00 for double adjustable. Of course that is a 4 corner system, a 2 corner would be less.

Ride Height | JRi Shocks

 

[John]

Raising the ride height just slightly can make the SLC much more livable on the street. I raised my ride height to:

• Front 4.75" (at the front corner of the tub)
• Rear 5.25"

Bill,
Actually that seems very reasonable for street driving.

Quick question for potential future SLC owners, if you were running those heights on the street, couldn't you lower the ride height fairly quickly if you were headed to a track event?

If you were going to check corner weights anyway, seems like it should be easy to do.

John

 

[Mike]

Maybe a little more than a little more money. JRI makes them, the single adjustable are $5600.00, add another $1000.00 for double adjustable. Of course that is a 4 corner system, a 2 corner would be less.

Ride Height | JRi Shocks

TKO gets some components from JRI but I believe they build most of their own stuff. I talked to JRI first before I went with TKO. The Ramlift kit was nearly $2k for each end and I was interested in having different length shocks as well so the extra $1K was a good deal for me. Either option is a great way to be able to maintain a low ride height when you want but still get into parking lots and garages. I think most supercars come with OEM lifts in the front these days.

 

[Eric in Florida]

Raising the ride height just slightly can make the SLC much more livable on the street. I raised my ride height to:

• Front 4.75" (at the front corner of the tub)
• Rear 5.25"

Bill, is this before you set the ride height to street height or is this after the street height? I assumed raising the car was an option of course but then I was afraid of wheel gap issues which I admit it an aesthetic issue only. I myself are one of the an unfortunate types who want to drive on the street with occasional track days, as opposed to a track machine. Essentially build for street use. Thanks for feedback.

 

[Tom]

Raising the ride height just slightly can make the SLC much more livable on the street. I raised my ride height to:

• Front 4.75" (at the front corner of the tub)
• Rear 5.25"

There is no noticeable impact to the handing and I'm able to clear most road hazards. There is still some minor bottom scraping, but no real damage. In fact, I have 2000 miles on my car and haven't needed to use the front lift yet.

For comparison, my FRS is lowered and the lowest hanging parts of it underneath are at 5". I've never scraped on anything and it is daily driven including speedbumps, roadkill, and driveways.

 

[Darren]

Hi, guys. New to the forums here. Seriously considering an SLC as a project and street driver. Great discussion of a topic of keen interest for me, given that my objective would be mainly street driving.

Doesn't the SLC have a coilover type suspension set up? I would assume you could set ride height for street driving that should avoid most obstacles. I really do like the optional lifts, as well. Colorado Springs has some pretty uneven roads in places.

 

[Howard Jones]

If I wanted a duel use car I would buy a second set of shocks, springs, wheels and tires. You will need stiffer springs on track anyway. Then set both sets up on the car and record rod end positions (number of turns difference from baseline).

Just swap shocks and springs pop on the slicks, turn the rod ends to the new setup positions and you are ready to go.

 

[Fran Hall RCR]

I ran a lift kit on my early black and green factory car that saw track and street use. Other than the small weight penalty it was fine on rack. as it sat in the closed position all the time.
It did make loading into the trailer easier too with the front end lifted though.

 

[Mesa]

That JRI stuff looks good. The front shock combo isn't very tall on an SLC so you'd quickly use up spring space with a taller lift collar. It also appears that the pump on the system is much larger than on the factory option possibly limiting where you could put it.

Regardless, it's always good to have options.

 

[Bill]

Bill, is this before you set the ride height to street height or is this after the street height? I assumed raising the car was an option of course but then I was afraid of wheel gap issues which I admit it an aesthetic issue only. I myself are one of the an unfortunate types who want to drive on the street with occasional track days, as opposed to a track machine. Essentially build for street use. Thanks for feedback.

This photo is with the ride height set higher at:

• Front 4.75" (at the front corner of the tub)
• Rear 5.25"

This PIC is taken from nearly ground level. When you look at the car from a normal eye level, it still looks slammed down to the pavement.

 

[Will Campbell]

Another thing to consider when thinking about approach angles and clearance on the street is that some cars are running the regular splitter (as Rumbles' car appears to be) and other (like mine) are running the race splitter.

Apparently Rumbles is smarter than me, because he had the sense to run the street splitter on the street. I didn't and even though I have a bit over 4" in front ride height, my splitter still occasionally scrapes on road perturbations I didn't even realize existed when driving in a "normal" car.

I have the lift kit, which works fine- when you have the time to use it, or recognize when the road dips a bit at low speed. But at road speeds, when you see a dip coming up, you just have enough time to cringe before the scrape.

A bit more ride height would probably help a lot. Another local street-driven SLC also has a race splitter, and apparently doesn't scrape much. His ride height is probably a little higher than mine.

I really like the look and function of the race splitter (in addition to the deeper skirt, it also has a slightly larger opening for the radiator) but if approach angle and avoiding scrapes is important, it probably isn't a very good choice for the street for most people, especially if they run the car a little low, as I do.

 

[Will Campbell]

Here's pic of the front of my car with the race splitter:

The problem is obvious- someone in the house likes the low.

 

[Frank Clark]

I think that is the first street SLC I've seen that is too low for Texas road rules!

 

[Howard Jones]

OK..........I'll bite........... Texas road rules?

 

[Larry L.]

A bit more ride height would probably help a lot.

:stunned: There's really not much question, is there!

There's nooooo waaaaaaay you could drive your SL-C around downtown Santa Barbara (California for non-natives) at its present ride height! (Those here who may be familiar with that town know egg-zackly why I say that.)

(Seriously. One couldn't. For those who've never been there, be advised that the first L or R turn one tried to make off of any of the streets that run 'up hill'/'down hill' there would remodel a l-o-w SL-C's front end in an instant! Ya see, they have these rather deep and fairly wide 'rainwater runoff channels'...'gullies', really...that run all along either side of said streets...and they continue right thru the intersections. So, if one were to attempt a turn in an SL-C, the instant the front tire dropped into said 'canyon'...well...:shocked: The same applies when simply crossing one of these intersections...'cause there's no way to approach these 'gullies' at an angle. One has to address them 'head-on'.)