SLC 24 Howard Jones

Howard,
I would say try it and see. You have to try it and your seat of the pants will make the final decision. Of course you have to do it at WOT. Have you done a dyno pull yet?? Your torque readings and "feelings" will tell you if it is right. My vote anyways. On your maps. Do you have infinite choices for the step up on the curve or are they programmed for say every 500 rpms?? I would try to make it as smooth as you can and have all in by 3000. Torque curve will tell you the most I would think. Lot of variables to think about with all this.

Bill
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
Sorry Bill, I have a Proform 750 DP carburetor on a medium height single plane intake. My guess is I am getting about as good off idle drivability as it's gonna get but I like to see if I can do this stuff myself. Asking questions is how you learn. I ask a lot.

A friend of mine has offered some help so I may try his advice. In the end I do need to run some laps but before that I really want to get the car as sorted as possible. I have talked to a dyno shop but for now I don't think I am close enough to make a dyno session as effective as possible.

Finished the seat covers and roll cage padding today. Interior is done.
 

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Howard Jones

Supporter
Messed with the carb some more. Raised float level on primary side about a 1/16 above "spec" and increased fuel pressure from 5.5psi to 6.5 psi. The idle surge as gotten better I was able to drop idle from 1100 to about 950-1000. Set idle mix screw again and vac has come up to about 7 in/m from 5.5-6 and its at a lower rpm. Progress (well a little).

On another note. I have been getting my trailer ready. Yesterday I ran the power cables from the battery to the back bumper of my truck for the winch. Today I want to plan and begin the try down points inside the trailer along with the winch mount system. I really need a complete trailer if I am going to run this car at the track in October.

Don, do you guys have a picture of the ramp system you are using on the blue mistress. And thank for the help.
 
4 2x12's 2 per side. with a 4x4 under about mid point to prevent sag.

They slide under car in trailer and 4x4 sits to the side.

Have to use jack and lift front of trailer as well to get a good angle for no drag...
 
On another note. I have been getting my trailer ready. Yesterday I ran the power cables from the battery to the back bumper of my truck for the winch. Today I want to plan and begin the try down points inside the trailer along with the winch mount system. I really need a complete trailer if I am going to run this car at the track in October


I used 2 2x14' boards. Really helps having a long run up. Also placed supports evenly spaced up the ramps to put it at the right angle.

I'm using the brake duct hole in the front to wrap around the front LCA to attach it to the trailer. You can get a hand under the front tire between the splitter/fender and the tire to get it around the LCA.
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
Insurance company wants pictures so I thought I would share.

Put into trailer today. Needed 8 foot extensions on trailer door but will go in. Fits good.
 

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Randy V

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Insurance company wants pictures so I thought I would share.

Put into trailer today. Needed 8 foot extensions on trailer door but will go in. Fits good.

You gave the insurance company pictures of your car with competition numbers on it? Ballzy!!!! :thumbsup:
 
Wow. The car looks fantastic. Bad to the bone. That wing is way up there!

How did you determine you wanted it that high? Will those wing stanchions hold under the load?

I'm no aero expert. Duh. Seems the wing is more efficient up high like that.
 

Terry Oxandale

Skinny Man
You gave the insurance company pictures of your car with competition numbers on it? Ballzy!!!! :thumbsup:

No doubt! They wanted one of mine, but I conveniently forgot to send them one, and being they went ahead with the policy, I haven't felt compelled to get any photos to them. I'm pretty sure it would be terminated if/when they see it.
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
The kit car insurance company's are use to seeing numbers on Cobras, GT40s and the like....................I hope.

Wing height? High enough to get it out from behind the roof line aero envelope. If it's not strong enough it will fall off. Really ............. I can push the car from it.

I like my seats. They are cost effective, have very good support, fit the car (with 2 inch's trimmed from the top), and plenty comfortable for 30 min track day sessions.

As a side note: Brakes are getting better each time I drive the car. I am thinking that the brand new rotors/pads are bedding in and I am just getting used to the peddle effort. Same thing with carb adjustments. Idle getting better with each tweak.

As soon as I get my insurance done I am going to do some legal speed runs on the highway to check on engine temps. Also I think the shock settings are too soft. Need to put a couple of clicks on each to firm them up.
 
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Howard

From our testing of Blue mistress, the aero is very good. The air stays tight against roof line all the way back. The air intakes work great as well. We have a high wing to try and incorporate the street tail envelope and wing envelope at a given distance behind SLC reducing the drag.

You have a race tail and will not have that option. Do your own testing on track. Your wing can be lowered considerably for your application. Your option is the Rear diffuser angle and wing height to try and get the envelopes to meet reducing drag.

Happy racing... Looks very sweet BTW...
 
I've wondered at why SLC's are putting the wing wayyyy up high, when the Group C / GTP cars put it low and used it almost as an extension of bodywork. Testing showed less drag, more downforce.

nOqPrQz.jpg
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
I'm pretty sure they had a wing height rule as well as many others. They also had the benefit of huge ground effect tunnels under the car with diffusers at the exits. Lowering the wing in that case will cause the low pressure zone under the wing to aid extraction of the diffusers. This will produce gains in overall downforce.

I have no rules and no GF tunnels. The diffuser on the car now is what's left of the OEM piece that really is little more than a rear engine cover hinge mount. I may make another to see if I can do one that works. That decision is related to whether I can run the bottom of the car fully closed. If heat buildup prevents that then I'll just make a rear body hinge support and throw that thing on the car now away.

So I have put the wing up into clean air to allow it to work as well as possible. I also allowed for a reduction in height without the addition cost of new material. Just cut it off and drill some new holes. As the car gets developed a may do just that. For now it just looks cool.
All this aero development is still down the road a bit.

I still need to complete basic systems testing. Mainly cooling system and brake efficiency conformation. Then mechanical grip, suspension geometry, shock settings, spring rates, roll bars, tire pressures and at the same time learn how to drive it.

Don how high do you think would be optimal. Or put another way how much should I reduce it's height if I was to do so. I'm asking for best guess. I have also thought about a plate spoiler along the trailing edge of the rear body. I know these work because I added one to my GT40 and it did work on it. The Prototype engineer I talked to at COTA suggested that one would be a quick and easy way to add downforce. He even said that using a NASCAR type spoiler might be better than a wing for me considering that I was a one man band and really had no aero development support. Your airflow work seams to confirm that it will work on a SLC as well. Thanks for that info. Every little bit helps.
 
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