SLC 24 Howard Jones

Howard Jones

Supporter
Did a bit of a "drivability" test. Engine pulls VERY hard from about 2500-5000. MUCH MUCHHHH!!!! more power than my GT40. Sort of a brake test also. Better but still not sure about them. This will need some drive time to sort. No more of these until I finish registration.

I cut some holes in the side windows. Much more comfortable.

I did mine in place on car. Best way to hold them in my opinion.

Turn drill motor Very slow!!!!!!! VERY SLOW!!! about 1/3 of full speed will do. Allow teeth to cut but do not apply pressure. Hold drill very securely. If it jumps around you might crack a hunk of widow out.

4 inch hole saw, thin 3 inch cut off wheel, 3/8 drive battery drill and some sand paper. Lay out center of holes to form corners and drill 1/8 piolet holes. Then use hole saw to cut into the window and form the corner radius of the 4 holes. Leave the part of the circumference that isn't the corners of the hole intact. This means you are really only using about 1/3 of the edge of the hole saw in contact with the window. This reduces the grabbiness of the hole saw blade.

Tape off straight lines between corners as a guide for cut off wheel. Use 3/8 drill to turn cut off wheel and "link" the 4 corner radius to complete perimeter of hole. Do not use high speed air tool. Go slow again! Finish edge with sand paper. I used 100 grit.

DID I SAY GO SLOW!!!! GO SLOW!!
 

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Howard Jones

Supporter
There is a first start video from a few weeks back on this thread. The engine is in a better state of tune now however. Thanks for the compliments. It makes me feel good to hear that other people like what I have done.

I also got word that my new trailer is done and I am going to pick it up in Oregon next week. I think there might be a track day in Francine's future. Need to be sure of the brakes first. No big deal just another thing to sort.
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
I'll post a first track day video when it happens, patience grass hopper. If you don't have some patience after building one of these you never will.
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
Very hot here today. About 90F in garage 100F in sun. Started it up and let it get hot. Water over temp light came on as expected at 250F. No water boil out. Turned on fans and waited. Fans pulled water temp down to 200F. Held at 200F for 10 mins.

Opened up rear engine room cover. Fuckin a it got hot in there! but no fuel heat problem. Pump and filter low in engine room with heat shield between it and header. Carb got HOT but kept working. Lots of heat flowing out of scoops. Good still air chimney effect.

That's good enough I think. No airflow into radiator inlet, just fans and it didn't push water out.

Idle overheat, Check.
 
Howard,
Looking at your startup vid made me think you went old school on the ignition. You have a crank trigger and electronic ignition setup. No?? I only use a timing light to confirm what I was seeing and hearing. Makes tuning a pleasure. I used an MSD 6A box with a locked out distributor and a FAST XFI timing setup(may change the box to a 6AL so I can add a rev limiter). I have several tunes stored and can change them with the touch of a button(basicly). Most of the setups no matter who you chose from have other goodies like traction control and other modern day goodies. BTW congrats on the startup.

Bill
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
Bill, I used a MSD billet mechanical advance, ready to run, small cap diameter distributor, a 6AL, and a Blaster SS coil along with their wire set. Set distributor to quickest advance curve. 34-35 degrees all in by 2500. That's about 16 degrees initial advance. This is proven simple easy to do stuff. The CR of the motor is right at 10.75 to 1 with Brodix IK200 alum heads so it will run on pump gas.

I did gamble on the cam. 294/300 duration and .546/.568 lift on a 110 lobe center. I'm using Hyd roller retrofit lifters and pro magnum CM roller rockers. With the CNC ported heads and 2.02 intakes this 355 motor should make north of 500HP at about 6300-6500 rpms.
 
Whats your intake port volume on the heads? The cam should still be pretty streetable with that grind and rollers, albeit probably a 850-900 idle rpm with a carb I'm guessing?
 
The 210cc should work good for the lift/duration and looked like you had a single plane manifold too? You probably could have gotten away with 220-230cc, but you would have only seen a small gain near redline, but it also wouldn't have helped the idle either. Lol.
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
I went to the DMV today and started the specially constructed vehicle process. So far so good. Paid the taxes and got my sequence number, #230. Next CHP appointment.
 
I went to the DMV today and started the specially constructed vehicle process. So far so good. Paid the taxes and got my sequence number, #230. Next CHP appointment.
Congratulations on the sequence number, commiserations on the taxes. It sounds like SB100 isn't that popular at the moment.
 
SB100 is a lot easier to get once Jessy James (West Coast Choppers) and Boyd Coddington were busted for building new vehicles and using the SB100 process to circumvent the California emissions rules.
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
I will post each process waypoint along the way for others in California. I called the CHP office in Hayward yesterday. In my past experience the guy who does inspections is familiar with kit car and did my GT40 years ago without a problem. I talked to him and he's still there.

https://www.chp.ca.gov/Find-an-Office/Golden-Gate-Division/Offices/(345)-Hayward

For your information the DMV office I recommend is the Pleasanton office. They have done many SB100's there and most of the clerks can do it for you with a bit of guidance from supervisors.

California Department of Motor Vehicles Field Office Information

Don makes a good point. Do the registration of your car by the book. Do no attempt to cut corners or bull shit anyone. Do not use a third party source for a out of state title or anything that smells of fraud. The SB100 process WILL result in your car being legally registered in California. Pay your taxes and be happy that we have a legal way to drive these cars on the road.

Rodger the huge backlog of cars that needed to be done legally a few years ago has passed and along with the weak economy in California there have been less than the maximum 500 cars done the last two years. Now IS the time to do this if your are ready. No good thing lasts forever. The libs want us all in a Prius, they hate ours cars, and they control the government in California. Sooner or later they will FU SB100.

For now, follow the law, and get er done!
 
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Howard Jones

Supporter
Did a few more slow laps around the block <40mph. I have been working on low rev drivability. Trying to get a nice even idle and then pull away from a stop without needing to slip the clutch too much or bip the throttle. It's getting better but I have a question for the Holley/old school faithful.

The cam I have says that it's effective range is 3000-6500. I have put a advance curve into the distributor that has the advance all in by 2500 (34 degrees) this means that at idle the static advance is about 16 degrees.

Question: Should I attempt to match the advance curve to the cam. Or better asked, should I move the advance out higher in the rev range to the 3000-3600 cam spec. Maybe have the full advance come in at 3000?

What do you guys think?
 
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