SLC exhaust options

Ok....I have paid for official Vendor status here, so I guess I will let you in on the plan. I am currently taking orders for the headers to fit the SL-C. They will look very similar to the ones shown above that I sell for the GTM. They are all Stainless Steel construction with 1-7/8" primaries and 3" collectors. The price for the headers will be $1059 to fit all LS engines, and $1184 if you want them equipped with an LS7 exhaust flange that matches the LS7 exhaust port shape. I can also have them ceramic coated for an additional cost.

Kooks runs these exhaust systems for me in batches, since this is a very low volume product, so I normally take orders for them until I reach my batch size (ten orders) and then turn the 10 orders in to Kooks. I will try to keep some in stock and on hand, but I can not guarantee that I will always have them in stock, so it would be best to plan ahead if you think you'll need them anytime in the next few months.

I have an order that I just turned in to Kooks this week. I can probably add to that order until the end of next week, so if you'd like to order, now would be the time. You can email me if you're interested in ordering at vraptor "at" midlands "dot" net

I also want to add that as soon as Kooks gets this first batch of them done, one set is being shipped to Fran so that he can come up with what will hopefully be a template for a "Universal" complete exhaust system for the SL-C (with LS engine) and I will be able to take the orders for those. Thanks guys!
 

Fran Hall RCR

Moderator
GT40s Sponsor
If you can get kooks to make 2 " headers that would be quite the exercise...having seen the shape and space available
 
Agreed! They haven't given me a yes or no just yet on the 2". I talked to them about 2 hours ago and he said they would get the fixture out on Monday to see if there's any possibility of it happening.
 

Fran Hall RCR

Moderator
GT40s Sponsor
Its only based off the SL-C chassis in concept.....
the SLC chassis is much wider in the cockpit that a 962...and the 962 has a longer wheelbase also...

There is actually plenty of room in the SL-C for exhaust routing..its all dependent upon your choice of engine and accessories...
Mine run straight out infront of the rear wheels, simple and easy...
Shanes design was already mostly done and hence the need to only tweek it to work..my space available comment refered to Kooks existing weld jig/fixture...
 
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Howard,

Thanks for finding that article. I thought I had a copy saved before and wanted to post in this thread, but I couldn't find mine!
 
Instead of starting a new thread, figured I'd revive this one to post this question. I've searched and come up with no information about anyone using these instead of the LS7 manifold. Im sure there's a reason no one had used them before, but figured it was worth asking. Soooooo... any chance of them possibly fitting on side exit exhaust setup?

Access Denied
 

Scott

Lifetime Supporter
Del, I can't comment on those, but I had my engine built by Brian Thompson and when I asked him about custom headers he said that he could make me a set and take my money, but that there would be absolutely zero performance improvement. Apparently, the LS7 manifold is well engineered and has individual tubes inside. He's aware that some people have made gains when they switched, but that was because they changed something else (i.e., removed the cats). He's done lots of R&D type of stuff on LS motors and he knows what he's talking about. So going with headers provides no performance gain and you will have more heat and less space. The LS7 manifolds look really nice ceramic coated and that's my plan...
 
I've already read how well engineered they are too. I just happen to come across these while I'm thinking about my exhaust and started to wonder. The only downside to these seems to be what kind of quality they actually are, well that and heat I'm sure.
 

Roger Reid

Supporter
I have a set of LS7 headers with the mating ls7 lower flange. Has everyone here been using stainless tubing bends for material compatibility or should I have a set of mild steel flanges made. any good sources for the tubing bends?
 
I find stainless easier to work with (weld), and it holds up better over time (no rust). You do have to backfill while welding and be sure not to use too much heat, but those are straight forward.

When I used the LS7 manifolds, I got two cast SS elbows, split them in half to make the outside of the oval, filled the middle with triangle shaped flats so coming out the side it was round. Took a bit of cutting/grinding/filler, but the transition to round was reasonable. That was for side exhaust. Many ways to skin that cat.

I've used Columbia River before, but latest order they shot back and said it would be 6 weeks... Cancelled that and had some guy in CA cut the same parts one off. Showed up in a week for the same price! But, they generally have good selection and prices.

Used stainlessheaders.com this week for stuff for my new set of headers.
 

Mark B.

Supporter
Frank, one of your previous posts inspired me to do something very similar, but to the rear instead of side. I picked up a 3" 304 SS U-bend off ebay, sectioned it, and filled in the triangle sections with 304ss sheet. I was able to integrate the 45-degree bend up to go over the axles and added v-band clamps. They have much more clearance below the header than if I had used the stock flange and bolted up a bend to it. My TIG skills aren't pretty, but they're back-purged and strong :)
Thanks for the inspiration!
I haven't finished the rest of the pipes yet, but here are pics of the headers.
 

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Fran Hall RCR

Moderator
GT40s Sponsor
That's very similar to how we do them here at the shop too....quite a lot of work but the results work well.
 

Roger Reid

Supporter
Frank, one of your previous posts inspired me to do something very similar, but to the rear instead of side. I picked up a 3" 304 SS U-bend off ebay, sectioned it, and filled in the triangle sections with 304ss sheet. I was able to integrate the 45-degree bend up to go over the axles and added v-band clamps. They have much more clearance below the header than if I had used the stock flange and bolted up a bend to it. My TIG skills aren't pretty, but they're back-purged and strong :)
Thanks for the inspiration!
I haven't finished the rest of the pipes yet, but here are pics of the headers.
Mark and Frank. I like what you have done. What is the best way to remove the flange from the header?
 

Mark B.

Supporter
I just used a 12" cutoff wheel on my miter saw. Lot of sparks, but zipped through it pretty easily. Then cleaned the flash up with a die grinder.
 
Mark,

Thanks!

Roger,

I use an angle grinder for almost everything. Have a 12” cutoff and a smaller “miter” type saw for metal. But I have LOTS of practice with the hand held.

Use whatever tool you have and are comfortable with.
 
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