SLC-Stealth Lambo Crusher

The first picture shows the interior roof panel. It has a groove at the end that corresponds to the tongue on the spider. If installed that way, wouldn't it interfere with the windshield install? Am I supposed to cut that groove away so it will allow the windshield to sit flush on the spider? Second question- The roof scoop will be feeding the engine bay with fresh air. Am I supposed to cut the firewall to match the inner roof panel? Maybe even have the inner roof panel extend into the engine bay??? Second picture shows the LS7 and Ricardo hopefully in there final position. I completed all engine coolant connections, engine oil lines, installed the oil cooler (Setrab 619) for the Ricardo, installed computer and started on engine harness.
 

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Couple more questions: 1- I would like to buy a new set of door lock cylinders. What year of Mazda Miata do the door locks belong to? 2- The SLC Wiki site suggests using helper springs for the front shocks. I have the RCR supplied ramlift hydraulic system for the front shocks. Are the helper springs necessary? If anyone would like to tackle the questions I asked in post above (#22) that would be awesome. Thanks for your help.
 

Ken Roberts

Supporter
I'll get you the part numbers for the new lock cylinders I purchased in the past. I took them to a locksmith and had one key made for both sides. Give me a day or two.
 
The first picture shows the interior roof panel. It has a groove at the end that corresponds to the tongue on the spider. If installed that way, wouldn't it interfere with the windshield install? Am I supposed to cut that groove away so it will allow the windshield to sit flush on the spider? Second question- The roof scoop will be feeding the engine bay with fresh air. Am I supposed to cut the firewall to match the inner roof panel? Maybe even have the inner roof panel extend into the engine bay??? Second picture shows the LS7 and Ricardo hopefully in there final position. I completed all engine coolant connections, engine oil lines, installed the oil cooler (Setrab 619) for the Ricardo, installed computer and started on engine harness.
The groove on the roof panel does not go into the tongue of the spider. The area is trimmed so the front roll bar can go into the panel. If the roof panel extends too far out the front it can be trimmed back some.
The rear firewall should already have an area cut away for the air to go into the engine bay. Try fitting it with the rear upper bulkhead interior panel in place and see how that works.
 
The first picture shows the interior roof panel. It has a groove at the end that corresponds to the tongue on the spider. If installed that way, wouldn't it interfere with the windshield install? Am I supposed to cut that groove away so it will allow the windshield to sit flush on the spider? Second question- The roof scoop will be feeding the engine bay with fresh air. Am I supposed to cut the firewall to match the inner roof panel? Maybe even have the inner roof panel extend into the engine bay??? Second picture shows the LS7 and Ricardo hopefully in there final position. I completed all engine coolant connections, engine oil lines, installed the oil cooler (Setrab 619) for the Ricardo, installed computer and started on engine harness.
You don't need to cut the lip off on the roof panel; it tucks under the roof just before the windshield. Leaving the lip there makes for a clean transition, and give an upholsterer something to wrap so the edge is neat. You do need to open up the area where the roll hoop passes through the roof panel, though.

If you have the interior fiberglass bulkhead panel, the roof panel sits neatly in it, and in the notch in the aluminum bulkhead (the firewall), which allows air from the roof scoop to pass into the engine compartment.

If you plan to do an interior, and ever drive the car in the rain, you'll likely want to either seal up the entire interior roof panel to keep water from getting in the interior, or better still, make a panel that connects to the roof scoop opening and channels air and water back to the engine compartment. This panel would sit inside the interior roof panel you have.

Edit: I see Allan answered at the same time and said the same thing in less words... :)
 
2- The SLC Wiki site suggests using helper springs for the front shocks. I have the RCR supplied ramlift hydraulic system for the front shocks. Are the helper springs necessary? If anyone would like to tackle the questions I asked in post above (#22) that would be awesome. Thanks for your help.
The helper springs help keep the spring, hat, and ram aligned at full extension. In many cars, when you jack up the front, as for alignment, the spring pack comes apart, or gets mis-aligned, and you have to manually align things as the suspension compresses. Also, when driving, if the car ever gets full extension, there is a chance that the spring pack will mis-align, and the geometry will go haywire. That's why the helper springs are a help.

You can experiment with your car and see if you think you need them. Mine did.
 
The door outside handles are from a 1990-1997 Miata. You can buy a used lock set with key for $20-$30 on ebay.

Couple more questions: 1- I would like to buy a new set of door lock cylinders. What year of Mazda Miata do the door locks belong to? 2- The SLC Wiki site suggests using helper springs for the front shocks. I have the RCR supplied ramlift hydraulic system for the front shocks. Are the helper springs necessary? If anyone would like to tackle the questions I asked in post above (#22) that would be awesome. Thanks for your help.
 
Remote doors, if you get the electric motor to open doors, you not only save the door handles, you eliminate the problem of the gas shocks not being strong enough and you dont have to worry about locking them since they are remote. about 200 per door with the module, best think I ever did, got tired of the door slamming down if you left it up when there is any type of breeze.

Just my 2 cents.
 

Ken Roberts

Supporter
Here are the part numbers for the 1997 Miata lock cylinders and keys: (approx. $44ea)

(left) N001-76-220E

(right) NA01-76-210E

The part numbers for new 1997 Miata outside door handles: (approx. $86ea)

(left) NA01-59-410D

(right) NA01-58-410D
 
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Thanks everyone for your help. I've been working on wiring, initial alignment, intake tube, and exhaust. The mufflers are: Flowmaster hushpower shorties. I made a heat shroud, covered in LavaMat, to cover the CV boots. Exhaust wrapped the pipes and mufflers. Installed the O2 sensor bungs. Getting close to adding fluids. Whoohoo. This month marks two years for my build. Not happy about that but I am on my own here, banging my head against the wall and other things. Can't tell you how many times I have said "Well this should be the last time I vacuum out the footwells". Anyway, my question of the day: Trying to figure out were to put the fuses in the Powercells of the Infinity box system. There are 10 labelled slots in the Powercells, but the manual doesn't say which slot corresponds to which function. The chart says the brake lights are "switch input #14". That doesn't help when the Powercells are labelled 1-10. I also assume that not all the slots will require a fuse, which ones I have no idea. Please help.
 

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PeteB

GT40s Supporter
The last couple of pages in the ISIS manual have a chart that lists the circuits. The switch input is the wire going into the mastercell. The chart in the back has a list of "powercell addresses" - those are the fuse numbers in the powercells. It's not laid out very logically. I re-organized the table and added a few pages to my manual.
 
Mike the picture are great. I have a question on the wing bracket and diffuser. Were the wing stand off brackets in the kit? Also, did you modify the diffuser for clearance for the mufflers?
 
Hi Michael,

I looked through the thread and didn't see what tail you have, but that intake will not fit under the stock 'race' tail. Either the clam has to be modified or the intake modified. If you have the 'street' tail, disregard me.
 
Pete, thanks for the reply. The chart on page 29 has a list of the the powercell addresses but they are all either: 1, 2, or 1:2. For example, the brake light, ignition, and starter all are labelled #2. Still confused. Eric, I have the race tail so it will be heavily modified. I like the idea of some sort of intake scoop in that area. Papa T, those wing mounts come with the kit if you order the race tail. They bolt directly to the diffuser. There are 3 crossmembers that make up the diffuser. I cut out the second crossmember and boxed in the cut out area as seen in the picture.
 

PeteB

GT40s Supporter
The 1, 2, or 1:2 refers to which powercell. 1 is front, 2 is rear, 1:2 means both. IE, parking lights are 1:2, but brake lights are 2, and headlights are 1. I'll post the tables I made up tonight.
 
Michael, see my thread about a simple and very effective brace for the wing uprights. :)

I think in total it cost me maaaybe $7 because grade-8 stuff is pricey.
 

PeteB

GT40s Supporter
The 1, 2, or 1:2 refers to which powercell. 1 is front, 2 is rear, 1:2 means both. IE, parking lights are 1:2, but brake lights are 2, and headlights are 1. I'll post the tables I made up tonight.
"Powercell Output" is the fuse #s

 
Micheal,

I've been reading your threat, seems like your really making great progress. I'm in also Phoenix and live near by. If it's OK with you, I'd love to stop by and check out your progress. PM sent.

--George
 
2- The SLC Wiki site suggests using helper springs for the front shocks. I have the RCR supplied ramlift hydraulic system for the front shocks. Are the helper springs necessary? If anyone would like to tackle the questions I asked in post above (#22) that would be awesome. Thanks for your help.[/QUOTE]

According to Fran, if you have the Penski shocks, helper springs should NOT be used. I have a set I will pass along cheap if you need/want them.
 
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