Solid Mount Engine and Trans

[Troy]

Well, I am progressing well with the install, and was wondering if anyone else had decided to install proper solid engine and trans mounts to their cars?

Not soild with a little bit of nolathane or something, but solid to the chassis!

If so, pics would be great.

Also, if anyone has any further advice on solid mounting (besides buying a mouthguard to stop my teeth rattling out...)

 

[Jack Houpe]

Troy Mike Trusty solidly mounted his motor and transaxle, I have both mounts on neoprene mounts and I swear his is less vibration, could be a little more noise but not sure as he hasn't put in the noise insulation like I did.

 

[Mike Trusty]

Troy:

As Jack mentions I did solid mounts for the main motor mounts and the lower transaxle mounts. I left the stock cross bar mounts in place. As long as the motor is properly balanced you will likely not notice any additional noise or vibrations. Granted the cars are noisey by nature I don't think mine is any worse than others. What I think it does do is stiffen the chassis a great deal by making the motor a solid part of the chassis.

Here are some pictures of the lower mounts. The main engine mounts are obviouse. The other pictures are of the transaxle mounts that attach to the bell housing.

 

[Jack Houpe]

Dang I forgotten just how beautiful everything is in your car. Great pictures!

 

[Kirby Schrader]

I think these solid mounts are a 'good idea'. I hadn't noticed it before, although Mike said he had when he rode with me, but my engine actually looks like it raises up about an inch under acceleration with the standard rubber mounts. The first time I saw it, I thought I had broken something.

Went home and checked everything out and could find nothing wrong....

Apparently, your engine does the same, Jack...

Troy:

As Jack mentions I did solid mounts for the main motor mounts and the lower transaxle mounts. I left the stock cross bar mounts in place. As long as the motor is properly balanced you will likely not notice any additional noise or vibrations. Granted the cars are noisey by nature I don't think mine is any worse than others. What I think it does do is stiffen the chassis a great deal by making the motor a solid part of the chassis.

Here are some pictures of the lower mounts. The main engine mounts are obviouse. The other pictures are of the transaxle mounts that attach to the bell housing.

 

[Russ Noble]

Solid mounts on mine Troy. No vibrations or rattles when idling or at speed. As Mike said, if your motor is properly balanced you should have no issues.

Mine is internal balance and mounted on engine plates at front and rear of block. Gearbox was initially left unsupported out the back but has since been tied into the chassis to alleviate some rear end chassis flex and also stabilise the trans which was tending to move up and down a little under power on/off caused by flex in the rear engine plate/trans adaptor due to torque reaction through the driveshafts. Quite a few pics in my build log.

 

[Bill Musarra]

Troy,
I also have mine mounted solidly. Although I am not on the road yet, I can tell there is little vibration the few times I had mine cranked. I also internally balanced mine and be aware it is not a cheap option to add the special lead to the crank throws. Although mine is not as elegant as Mikes I obtained some tubular steel and bent it to the contour of the trans and added some tabs to grab some of the side nuts. I then triangulated it to the frame.

I have a lot of other examples.

Here is one that they actually braced the trans from flexing.Probably not a bad idea if you decide not to hard mount the trans.

That ought to give you a few ideas. I have tons of pics of just about any aspect of these cars you would ever need to know. Let me know if you need any other info.

Bill

Bill

 

[Terry Oxandale]

I've use solid mounts before for the entire drivetrain components and never noticed any additional vibration (engine was well balanced though). My current project has solid mounts, but it's an LS2 instead of a 302. I swapped sides, and flipped them over in order to solidly mount them and simultaneously clear the dry sump pump.

Then I solidly connected the KEP adapter plate to the same rails, and lastly, fabbed up an aluminum plate that supports the bottom of the 930 case at the rear.

 

[Troy]

Hi Terry, sorry, just found this thread again. My GT40 has an LS2, and I have tried what you've done there. Sadly, have less room than that, so have had all new parts laser cut and am having a local TIG guru assemble the whole lot.

Great pics, would love to see a few more of your project.

Cheers