Southern GT #28

[Neil]

"Its learning by doing and redoing mostly"

Truer words were never spoken, Morten!

 

[Mark Boyers]

Clean all your chassis mount Suspension holes out before you put the aluminium panelling on it’s a pain to do after

 

[Hamish]

Thanks guys. Think I will continue using the Avinox BE61 rivets. Will consider the distance between them.

 

[Hamish]

Progress last night.

Seem to be doing several things at the same time. Decided to bolt the lower link arms to the chasis before sealing and riveting the panels that go above them.

For people in the UK, found Screwfix do M12 steel washers that work well on linkages.

 

[Hamish]

Almost finished drilling holes in panels to right of drivers seat. Now trying to work out where the gear leaver bolts on. Hard to know when I dont have the dash or the seat bolted in.

 

[Hamish]

Also started clamping where the peddle box might go, to work out how pedals fit round the steering column. Not sure yet.

 

[Shaun]

I have a drawing from Mick re the location of the gear shift I will scan and send over

 

[Hamish]

I have a drawing from Mick re the location of the gear shift I will scan and send over

Great. That would be really useful. H

 

[Shaun]

 

[Shaun]

Just to add I did make my slot a bit bigger where it goes through the panel, its hidden anyway

 

[Hamish]

Thanks for the drawing, very useful. I assume that you bolted the two bolts on the gear lever body through on to the diagonal chasis bar not just to the aluminium panel? H

 

[Morten]

I did on mine, but in retrospect I should’ve welded on a 3mm plate to have more «freedom» to place the shifter, instead of nutserts on diagonal. And made a dent into the ally panel for more movement of the shifter going into reverse.

 

[Shaun]

Yes I used the rails but as Morten says a panel would allow more movement but to be honest that end was the easier part the hardest was setting the rod angles, etc and cutting a hole in the rear quarter panel where it emerges!!

 

[Davidmgbv8]

Just curious, why are there no seat or floor cross tubes on this chassis?

 

[Hamish]

Talked to Mike about that. Apparently he used to put them in, but realised theres enough strength without them. However I'm planning on putting some in as don't fancy not having them. H

 

[JP Verweij]

I also did weld two crossbars on each side out of 6mm flatbar.
Just under my seat where they hold four studs for my seat fixings.
My seats are bolted onto the studs from the inside with four m8 nuts, easy accesable from the inside of the compartment.
Either the stud or the nut comes loose when unbolting and I have nothing on the outside under the floorpan.
Sorry no photo of the crossbars, only of the seat fixings.

 

[Hamish]

Yes. I was thinking of a similar thing. My seats have sliders, so was thinking of welding bolts pointing up to the cross bars and bolting the seats down to them with the nuts on top. Just need to see if I can get to the nuts if I do that.

 

[Hamish]

Took advantage of the heat today. I'm going to paint the engine bay panels before they are attached to the chassis. Etched the aluminium, metal cleaner done and metal prep primer done. Leaving them to dry for a few days.

 

[Tony Sherrington]

I would put a hole through the rear bulkhead so that you can get a socket through onto the bottom pulley bolt. In order to be able to turn the engine over later once fitted. I missed this when I built my SGT, but have done it since. Easier done before the wiring and brake pipes get in the way on the engine side.
Great work so far! Keep up the good work. It's worth it in the end.

 

[Hamish]

Two layers of paint on the panels this afternoon. Like black glass! Top coat tomorrow morning.