Sparking Gun 2003

[Neal]

Many of you have the acquired the skill of welding. Perhaps it was genetic, perhaps built over a many years of practice. I have had exposure on and off over the years but have always resisted the black art. This past weekend I started sectioning my headers and aligning the collectors. I quickly realize that either I weld or I job it out. Well the time came to step up to the plate. I purchased a MIG setup and the necessary accessories and resolved to "get over it!"

Note the high quality, first attempt!

None the less, I will refine the skill and use it to my advantage. Hopefully I'll look back and say it was worthwhile!? If not, you'll see a nice Miller MIG setup in the for sale section.

There are those that can and those that do.
Bottom line is, if you don't accept the challenges that confront you, you won't move forward. Now, back to the garage to practice!

I love a good project.

 

MIG welding is tough, and requires alot of practice. I spent 4 years welding in high school, and the though of welding a set of headers scares the crap out of me. I'd recommend cutting out a bunch of 4" +1" squares and practicing on welding them together at various angles, then do a bunch (on the order of 20-50) test pipes before working on anything expensive. It can take at least that long to build the fine control for real pretty welds, but it's a good skill to have.

A.

 

Well, after reading your build diary, it looks like you at least have the foundations for learning how to do this - and the welder looks very nice by the way.

 

I am not a pro by any stretch of the imagination, not even taken a welding course but i have welded lots of exhausts and although i dont know if these hints are technically correct, they seem to help,
1. clean the metal,including ground clamp area and even if it looks clean.
2. set the power so when you weld a scrap you just see a weld "bump" on the back side.
3. make the ends that butt together as flush as possible.
Like i said, dont know if this is techically right but i dont care it works for me, might help you too i hope,
ps. when your car is done i would love to make the trip down to see it.

 

[ChrisL]

Neal,

I say GO-FOR-IT and don't let anyone frighten you off. You will soon find out for yourself whether you are able to do it.

Difficulty is all relative and will propably mostly impact on the time that it will take to do the job. In the first instance you'll probably be happy to have something thats functional rather than pretty. You can then improve your style from there.

At the end of the day, its not rocket science... unless its a structuraly critical item, which an exhaust system isn't.

 

[Mark Worthington]

Way to go, Neal. The worst that can happen is you waste some time and material and learn a new skill in the process.

Have you considered taking a night course in welding at a local vocational school? Maybe Boeing offers something? I know the timeframe isn't right, but I would highly recommend that anyone wanting to try their hand at welding (or riveting or sheet-metal fabrication) attend EAA Airventure in Oshkosh, Wisconsin. They have workshops in welding, riveting, composite fabrication, painting, etc., and most of them are free. Anyone who at all admires hand-built machines that go fast owes it to themselves to attend the Oshkosh event at least once in their lifetime.

 

[Mike Dozier]

A MIG welder is a great tool for fabricating
custom stuff. I've made lots of small brackets/braces with it, as well as patch panel repairs. The welds are not
all perfect, but since these parts are not
related to safety, I don't worry.

Unless you intend to do a lot of welding,
I don't see the point in buying an expensive
machine with capability of welding stuff
you'll never weld. $ 500 MIG welders are fine. Practice of course is good.

The other great invention is the auto darkening helmet. It is a MUST for beginners.

MikeD

 

[Bill Musarra]

Keep an eye out for the Auction section of your paper. I picked up a stick welder for $175 and it came with about 10 boxes of rods. You can save a bunch that way. Some of the rental places carry them as well, if your not doing a great deal of welding.
Bill

 

[M.B]

A bit more expensier machine is easier to get god welds with...
Especially if you are a beginner..
A cheap MIG has a narrow band of limits to work within..
Even worser if it is run on low voltage..
That´s why a bit more costlier one is easier to work - greater area to work within.
Especially if you are thinking of thin metals..
You normally do not weld ships with a MIG/MAG anyway..
So you have to weight it against the costs etc..
All depending on what you want out of it...
A exhaust system gets hot then cold etc etc..
like a cycle, eventually it will show fatigue.
When you mix two totally different structures, it will eventually crack in that area.
But much faster when the differences are large, like in MIG welded spots.
But if you have pieces that stays about the same norms or having slow changes, then they hold up way much better.
And a exhaust is a good example of rapid changes in several categories.
You can of course, but the life limit will be much reduced.
So you have to start mend sooner..etc..
And mending is more difficult than fabricating in the same range of work..
All depends what you are looking for...
You can go throu the welds and heat them up afterwards with a TIG if you wish..
You reduce tensions and bring "dirt" up to surface etc..

 

[M.B]

The "BACKSIDE" of the welding should look similiar to the front side were you are actually welding..
Otherwise it is not welded, it is melted together.
Or even worse, crapped together(sorry about words..)
Welding tubing, thin wall and at an angle is the more difficult sides of the matter.
Try welding small pieces together like suggested.And not too thin for starters.
To get the "flow"..
MIG/MAG welding is not to recommend on exhaust that are not heat treated in some way afterwards.
As they will crack more easily, because of material structures at the weld being to hard and brittle.
Especially complex systems.
Or if you can pre heat and go with high Amp´s..
Preferably use Oxygen/Acetylene in gas welding or TIG it together.
Try to use pretty good machines too..
With pretty capable transformators..
MIG/MAG is pretty sensitive to "winds" as well.
Some do it outside...
Try not to "cold" weld..
It should go hot...

Well, just trying to help...

[ February 12, 2003: Message edited by: Marco Bjerkén ]

[ February 12, 2003: Message edited by: Marco Bjerkén ]

[ February 12, 2003: Message edited by: Marco Bjerkén ]

 

[andys]

If I were to look at it from a cosmetic perspective (since you're building something unique), my personal opinion is that oxy/acetylene or TIG would yield a more desireable result. This is not to say a weld with good integrity can't be done, it's just difficult for those less than very well experienced on thin-walled round parts, IMHO. I bought a TIG (Miller Synchrowave 250)because of its ability to do fine detail, as well as various alloys, etc. Neal, the MIG is a real handy machine to have around. May be you ought to keep it regardless. Good luck (and practice, practice, practice....on round tubing).

Andy

 

How is the progress on your car going? The last entry on your website seems to be Feb 2002.

How would you rate the NZ car and the overall quality?

 

[Neal]

Good eyes Pete. My website journal seemed to miss the New Year

I've had the car six months now and estimate I'm 60% complete. I've primarily worked on weekends so things are moving quickly. I think this is a good indication of the quality of this car as I've not done any major fabrication (aside from headers) and all the components I've sourced have fit up without any issues. As was my first impression, I believe it is a great value for the dollar. To be honest, I spend more time looking at parts catalogs for the next great widget I should add than building! Ever try and build a motor from scratch? Lots of choices...

These auto-dimming welding helments are pretty cool, you can post on the web and then go strike an arc!

Practice makes perfect.

 

[Howard Jones]

I used to race two strokes. Roadrace TZ350 Yamahas and I have made several sets of pipes for many dirt bikes. The best way to weld thin wall mild steel tubing for exaust pipes is gas. You can get to a very good looking job pretty quickly if you practice. The equipment is'nt too expensive. Rent the gas tanks. CLEAN!!! everything with solvent then wirebrush the area to be welded. NO beedblast material. Do not try and use used pipe with carbon soot inside. The down side. Gas welding isn't much use for welding anything else that must maintain its strenght.Get a 6 foot piece of 2 inch muffler pipe and cut into 2 inch sections with half of the cuts at 45 degree. Weld all this back together. When you are done you will have figured out how to gas weld. It would'nt hurt to get a book from the library before you start. Have fun!! Gas welding is fun!! Oh and get a Fire extinguisher, The kind that sprays water. Wet rags. Bucket of water. Do not blowup your house! Gas water heater, fuel cans, gas in you car etc. Last thing wear cotton clothing, long sleve, no poly shirts.

 

[Neal]

Welding brings a whole new meaning to the word "tacky." One step closer...

 

[wpeter]

Don't forget to block off the ends of the pipes and bleed argon into the inside of the tubing. It will finish the weld much better and smoother on the inside. If the gap is too big between the tubes the wire will shoot through. That is why most use gas or tig.

Bill

 

[Neal]

Well, the headers are finally done. I took the higher road and had a friend TIG them after I tacked them together. Nothing like sanitary quality welding on your exhaust! Now it's off to the dyno and then the ceramic coater. Thanks for all the suggestions.

 

[Mike Dozier]

Neal

Did you bend any pipe?
Or just cut and paste?

MikeD

 

[Neal]

Cut and paste. To be honest, it would have been easier to start with flanges and bends. My total investment to date is about $200 in materials.

 

[Mike Dozier]

How many hours do you figure?

MikeD