I may resort to that if nothing else works.
Are there any recommendations out there for back flushing the system?
Are there any recommendations out there for back flushing the system?
SPF brake firmness
- Thread starter SpyderMike
- Start date
Mike, I also replaced the brake fluid on my early SPF not too long ago.
Unfortunately I'm heading out for work - so quick comments only.
To get to outer bleeding nipples I removed all four wheels to access the calipers easily.
I used a vaccum pump like this:
There are some good videos on YT e.g.
I had a certain sequenz for bleeding the calipers - I will look that up later....
Overall bleeding was not too bad and I got all the old brake fluid out easily - however, proper bleeding (getting all the air out) was more time consuming.
Hope this helps.
Unfortunately I'm heading out for work - so quick comments only.
To get to outer bleeding nipples I removed all four wheels to access the calipers easily.
I used a vaccum pump like this:
Mityvac Vacuum Pump Kit - 8000
This is the original Mityvac hand vacuum pump kit used by service professionals worldwide for performing hundreds of automotive diagnostic and mechanical tests and for one-person brake bleeding. The MV8000 kit contains the most popular Selectline hand vacuum pump with vacuum gauge and...
www.autobodytoolmart.com
Overall bleeding was not too bad and I got all the old brake fluid out easily - however, proper bleeding (getting all the air out) was more time consuming.
Hope this helps.
If the front bleeds ok and BOTH rears dont?
I would suggest that there is a blockage in the system somewhere between the master cylender and rears.
If both exhibit same problem then its not in the individual lines from the t splitter.
Get at the T splitter and loosen and REMOVE the pipe going INTO the splitter from the master line.
Its goiing to get messy but see if fluid comes pouring out here WHEN PEDAL IS PUSHED then the fault is at the t junction and onwards to wheels.
If dribbles here than its from t back to master......Possibly a pipe has been crushed ( jacking up / accedent damage....I dont know the pipe runs on this car.
When the pedal is pressed during bleeding is it going all the way to the floor or binding on the balance bar ?
Another possiblity previous mentioned was the ballance bar.
It should have some left right movement on the bar to allow the pedal to fully depress if one master cylinder is fully out and one master cylernder is fully in.
Best of luck
Jerry
I would suggest that there is a blockage in the system somewhere between the master cylender and rears.
If both exhibit same problem then its not in the individual lines from the t splitter.
Get at the T splitter and loosen and REMOVE the pipe going INTO the splitter from the master line.
Its goiing to get messy but see if fluid comes pouring out here WHEN PEDAL IS PUSHED then the fault is at the t junction and onwards to wheels.
If dribbles here than its from t back to master......Possibly a pipe has been crushed ( jacking up / accedent damage....I dont know the pipe runs on this car.
When the pedal is pressed during bleeding is it going all the way to the floor or binding on the balance bar ?
Another possiblity previous mentioned was the ballance bar.
It should have some left right movement on the bar to allow the pedal to fully depress if one master cylinder is fully out and one master cylernder is fully in.
Best of luck
Jerry
Lee Patterson
Supporter
Mike, like I said, there are TWO bleed screws. You gotta take your wheels off bro! There is no vacuum assist on these. Pull the wheels and do the outer bleeder first. then the inner. Both on top.
