SPF window screws
- Thread starter Bigblockquad
- Start date
Rich,
Consider replacing them with rivitnuts and nylon screws. It makes it far easier to remove the windows and the nylon screws will not rust. It only takes a few hours to accomplish (even for a ham fist mechanic like me) and is a nice alternative. Take a look here:
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-exterior-interior-ac-trim/34348-interior-cooling-2.html
Consider replacing them with rivitnuts and nylon screws. It makes it far easier to remove the windows and the nylon screws will not rust. It only takes a few hours to accomplish (even for a ham fist mechanic like me) and is a nice alternative. Take a look here:
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-exterior-interior-ac-trim/34348-interior-cooling-2.html
Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
We're talking about the ~15 screws that hold the side windows to the doors?
I did the whole plastic screw with rivnut thing, so have to rely on memory, but....
Flange? I could be wrong but I thought my original screws were "oval-head" as in flat-head that is a little domed. Or maybe that they were pure flat-head. Are the holes in your windows not counter-sunk for flat-head screws? If I'm right about the head and you're right about the size, McMaster has them: 95639A322.
I also thought, but again could be wrong, that mine were straight, not phillips. And furthermore, I remember them being longer than 3/8", except for a couple that were hand-shortened so a not to punch through the door frame (don't know why rather than use shorter screws, but that's different question).
I'm puzzled.
Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
Those look to me like what is normally sold as an upholstery fastener. I've never seen them in stainless even after a fairly thorough web search.
I think the McMasters equivalent would be the "Wide Washer Head Phillip" but no stainless version is listed. Interestingly (to me at least) they have a "Round Shank Screw for Brittle Plastic" which combined with a stainless washer would hve the same effecty, and from a thread perspective is probably ideal (eg 97349A200) and they have it also in flat head in case you want to use the countersink (eg 96068A153, but not in 3/8").
I can see the appeal of the flange or washer head screw; less worry about cracking the windows.
IAE I don't see anything else that's much closer.
Current side window hardware is the black pan head screw. The plex for the side glass is not currently beveled, but could be done so with a countersinking bit.
The rivnuts and either nylon or stainless machine screws is a good way to go if you anticipate removing the side windows with any regularity.
The rivnuts and either nylon or stainless machine screws is a good way to go if you anticipate removing the side windows with any regularity.
I had the same screws before I replaced them with nylon.
Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
And, for us originality obsessives, what did the originals use?
I like the original beveled screws and countersunk plexi (makes for an easily cleanable surface).
Seems like SPF went to no countersink and pan head hardware to preclude stress cracking the plexi if the screws tightened too much.
I eliminated the possibility of cracking by putting a drop of glue on the screws and tightening with my fingernail...No plexi cracking and easy to clean.
Steve P2125
Seems like SPF went to no countersink and pan head hardware to preclude stress cracking the plexi if the screws tightened too much.
I eliminated the possibility of cracking by putting a drop of glue on the screws and tightening with my fingernail...No plexi cracking and easy to clean.
Steve P2125
Jack Houpe
GT40s Supporter
I considered using those rubber expanded nut things, can't remember the name of them, they are used on motorcycle windshields. They would serve two purposes, one to secure the window and two to help with the expansion and contraction due to temperature changes which causes cracking.
Rubber well nuts. They have the steel threaded insert inside a rubber "hat". When the screw is inserted into the well nut it pulls forward and bulges the rubber thus retaining the well nut in the opening. Safir used them on the MK Vs to retain the seat backs to the bulkhead.
Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
McMaster calls them "Screwdriver-Installed Rubber-Insulated Rivet Nuts" and the smallest 6-32 version is 93495A120; requires a 5/16" hole: 93495A120
Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
Probably. I was just providing the reference in case anyone wants to use it. I still think rivnuts and nylon screws are the way to go, unless you're never going to remove your windows.
When I did that to mine I was also envisioning being upside down and wanting to be able to push the windows out for escape purposes, and feel more comfortable with nylon screws from that perspective. OTOH, the original arrangement (self-tapping in fiberglass) will probably push right out as well.
Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
You're right; in fact I used threaded inserts, not rivnuts. All covered in the Interior Cooling thread cited above.
My reasons for wanting the change are two fold. After looking at the original 1046 it looks like all the screws around the windows are a brighter metal than the black I have and I'd like not to worry about rusting again.
Rivnuts aren't a bad idea but I'm not sure how often I'd be taking the windows off/on.
Rivnuts aren't a bad idea but I'm not sure how often I'd be taking the windows off/on.
