Steve's GT-R Build Thread

Steven Lobel

Supporter
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Drove to work. 18 miles. Heater works. Railroad crossings at full lift in front still bang the heck out the front suspension on full soft. Need to go slow until you know it is ok to go over 5mph. Successful drive. Rattles much better with windows out (much louder ambient noise).
 

Steven Lobel

Supporter
Replaced clamps and hose at front of water pump and top of radiator. Simple hose clamps and rubber flex hose. Took off 10 more clamps and 5 feet of extra SS pipe and 9 degree silicone connectors. Less connectors means less leaks. Awaiting parts to redo the vented Sparco cap.
 

Joel K

Supporter
Replaced clamps and hose at front of water pump and top of radiator. Simple hose clamps and rubber flex hose. Took off 10 more clamps and 5 feet of extra SS pipe and 9 degree silicone connectors. Less connectors means less leaks. Awaiting parts to redo the vented Sparco cap.

Steve, I’m designing the cooling tubes for the engine compartment now and have been going back and forth on what to use. Sounds like you recommend fewer hoses and clamps and more welded stainless tubes? Just looking to confirm.
 

Steven Lobel

Supporter
Steve, I’m designing the cooling tubes for the engine compartment now and have been going back and forth on what to use. Sounds like you recommend fewer hoses and clamps and more welded stainless tubes? Just looking to confirm.

Welded tubes would be nice. I prefer rubber flex hose so whenever something else changes, I can just push them out of the way or reroute them.
Would use rubber until car is complete and then decide if worth going to metal. Would also recommend not running AC/brakes/cooling down the center tunnel. Maybe run some electrical in there, but that would be it.
 

Joel K

Supporter
Thanks Steve, I misread your post and didn’t see the reference to rubber flex hoses. I definitely see how they would be less prone to leaking vs. multiple silicone hoses.
 

Steven Lobel

Supporter
Going to test out the cooling system for leaks today. Hoping for some stop and go traffic and 75 degree weather.

Next up is the gas tank venting issue. When I fill up the tank and run hot, gas boils out the Sparco cap. There is the RCR supplied valve and a mild steel reducer in the factory system. There is also a separate tank vent with rollover valve that lets air in and no gas out.

Looks like this: 2.5" from Sparco to reducer. Valve inside 2" hose to tank.

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FILLER TUBECHECK VALVE.JPG Check valve was really a splash guard and low quality.

New system:

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New check valve installed in 2" fuel hose close to tank inlet.
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I put a 45 degree elbow in the middle of the 2" hose so it would not kink going to the new, non-vented gas cap.


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Just need to zip tie the vent line/roll-over valve up high and bolt in the mesh.
 
Hi Steven,
I had a similar problem with a boat years ago. I sealed it up and used check valves similar to what you have done. I did not have any leaks afterward but did not have adequate venting. The tank would pressure up pretty good. Curious, how you are venting excess pressure in the tank with this setup?

BTW - thank you for sharing this information. It sure helps others going through these same hurdles building the GT-R. My car was purchased as a partially built project. I was planning a build thread then realized it may be hard to follow because the running gear is already installed, so it would not be a complete build. I may start a few threads on specific areas, ie. GT-R ducktail, GT-R Clam shell, ect.... There certainly are not many GT-R build threads out there yet.
 

Steven Lobel

Supporter
Hi Steven,
I had a similar problem with a boat years ago. I sealed it up and used check valves similar to what you have done. I did not have any leaks afterward but did not have adequate venting. The tank would pressure up pretty good. Curious, how you are venting excess pressure in the tank with this setup?

BTW - thank you for sharing this information. It sure helps others going through these same hurdles building the GT-R. My car was purchased as a partially built project. I was planning a build thread then realized it may be hard to follow because the running gear is already installed, so it would not be a complete build. I may start a few threads on specific areas, ie. GT-R ducktail, GT-R Clam shell, ect.... There certainly are not many GT-R build threads out there yet.

The tank has a separate vent line on the front next to the fuel filler line. I have a check valve and vent in that line. It is now mounted vertically so it can suck in air upward, but downward gas in the loop closes the ball check.
 
Steven, love your build. You cut out your front hood (bonnet??) but stayed with latches instead of using a hinge. Is there a reason or just personal preference? Thanks, Jim
 

Steven Lobel

Supporter
Steven, love your build. You cut out your front hood (bonnet??) but stayed with latches instead of using a hinge. Is there a reason or just personal preference? Thanks, Jim

More work to do the hinge system. 4 latches and completely out of the way. Battery is extremely heavy and I am short. I need to be over the nose to lift it out myself. Also like the full access for things like fixing leaks at hydraulic pump, taking out the filler hose (switched to sealed gas cap and removed one way valve in filler neck- gas now goes in at normal speed), etc.

Downside is if I need to do this out of my garage I need space to lay down the hood. I keep blanket behind my seat as well as rags and a tool bag.
 

Steven Lobel

Supporter
Replaced front MC. Went with 5/8" front and 3/4" rear. Still need to adjust push rods and balance bar. I feel I can now lock the brakes with moderate to heavy pressure rather than extreme pressure. Might need to re-bleed the system to see if that is also causing problems.
 
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