Steve's GT-R Build Thread

Steven Lobel

Bronze Supporter
#1
And so it begins....
1st contact with Fran 2012 via email. Joined here in 2013. Set on SLC then, bolstered by Stacey David's Gearz. Got serious a year ago and started emailing Fran again. Visited H-Craft's shop and sat in SLC and his just arrived GT-R. Sold on GT-R over SLC at that time because cockpit was huge compared to the SLC. Ordered in March, arriving today. Plan on 16 months to build, sticking as much as I can to the base. No interior, no fancy stuff. I will reach out to the board often and have several threads saved on my computer. Disappointed most of the pictures went away with Photobucket. I am heading out for a week as soon as car gets tucked away off trailer (and photo shoot). Figuring on nothing but project management, deconstruction, and inventory for 2 weeks when I get back. Excited to get ziplock bags, sharpies, labels, etc.
 

Ron McCall

Bronze Supporter
#2
Welcome Steve! The GT-R is quite an amazing piece. I have two in the shop at the moment. If i can assist in any way,please let me know.
Ron
 

Steven Lobel

Bronze Supporter
#5
Just unwrapping the car and doing inventory. Awaiting a few items on back order including lift kit, infinity system, wiper motor. Kit comes with digital inventory for shipping purposes. Does not come with a build manual. Thank goodness for this site. Engine and trans on way.
 

Steven Lobel

Bronze Supporter
#8
5Day 3 in garage. Car fully stripped. Tank out and put on edge moulding, heat shield. Tapped fuel sender. Sender too long. Emailed Fran. Turns out it is trim to fit. Welded adapter to column. Wrapped clutch and brake hard lines under tank. Used rivnut tool in tank legs. Too tough. 3 of 4 went ok. One needed drill out and larger size. Too much pressure. Must get better tips on using tool.





 
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Steven Lobel

Bronze Supporter
#9


So that is done. #10-24 tap and 1.5" stainless screws with a drop of removable threadlock.

Looking at parking brake. If I use 2 washers, the bracket lines up perfect. Rotor is tightened down. Am I missing something? Or is it ok to add these washers so when I drill and tap the suspension arm I have good purchase and not on the edge?

Without:



With:

 

Mark Setter

Silver Supporter
#10
I had the same issue. I used washers to make sure the threads for mounting the parking caliper were in the most solid area available and there was not parking caliper pad pressure on the rotor when the parking brake was not engaged. The washers are the least compromise of all the options.
 

Steven Lobel

Bronze Supporter
#11
Taking some of the confusion out of fuel system, I brought all the supplied pieces inside and took a look at Fuel System — SL-C Wiki and Fuel System Kit — Superlite Cars

So I laid out the basic parts on an ottoman.



And then there are the rest of the fittings:



This cute little guy might go on the gas tank:



I still need to link all the parts together with the fuel line. I also have to get a fuel pickup tube, tank vent, and tank fittings for return line, and filler. Anyone got part numbers or sizes for the fittings on the tank?

Fuel Tank Pickup Tube

This part looks like the pickup and would hopefully be right size for fitting on tank.
 

Kurtiss

Silver Supporter
#13
The fuel tank return fitting is a 3/8" NPT; the supply is a 1/2" NPT. For clearance, I had to use 90 deg elbows. 3/8" and 1/2" aluminum 5052 tubing was epoxied into the fittings as shown. After the lines were fabricated and the sending unit sealed, I filled the tank with 5 gallons of solvent to leak check the fittings and flush the tank. All was good.
 

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Steven Lobel

Bronze Supporter
#15
Slow going. Just laying out any of the systems is a daunting task. Glad this forum is here.

In my kit I got a Wilwood box saying 260-10374. It contained: Wilwood Disc Brakes - MasterCylinder No: 260-13621
Trying to figure out why the supplied 90 degree elbow fits in two of the three master cylinders is infuriating. And the part itself is labelled 3/8 24 while the others are 1/8 27.
So not much progress other than buying parts and tools so I can do it right. Or as close to right as I can make it. Will order a banjo bolt or adapter to the braided line.

Any and all help greatly appreciated.
 

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Steven Lobel

Bronze Supporter
#16
Taking some of the confusion out of fuel system, I brought all the supplied pieces inside and took a look at Fuel System — SL-C Wiki and Fuel System Kit — Superlite Cars


This cute little guy might go on the gas tank:

So the Bosch 61944 fuel pump comes with an M18 on one side with M18 to -10 adapter. The little blue guy is the M10 to -6 adapter. You have to remove the banjo fitting out of the end first. I'd say 3 hours of learning and figuring out to every 15 min of labor so far. It looks like the fuel system needs two -8 to -6 adapters and comes with one. From the top of the surge tank is -8 and the gas tank outlet is -8. Am I looking at this wrong? Here is my diagram for the fuel system layout:
 

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Ian Anderson

Lifetime Premier Supporter
#17
So the Bosch 61944 fuel pump comes with an M18 on one side with M18 to -10 adapter. The little blue guy is the M10 to -6 adapter. You have to remove the banjo fitting out of the end first. I'd say 3 hours of learning and figuring out to every 15 min of labor so far. It looks like the fuel system needs two -8 to -6 adapters and comes with one. From the top of the surge tank is -8 and the gas tank outlet is -8. Am I looking at this wrong? Here is my diagram for the fuel system layout:
Hi
I think you have a "pinch point" on your system
The Fuel flow into the surge tank should probably be a lot bigger than a -6 fitting. High flow at low pressure = larger diameter pipe.
All the fuel consumed has to go through this fitting and this to my eyes would be a restriction.

Ian
 

Steven Lobel

Bronze Supporter
#18
Hi
I think you have a "pinch point" on your system
The Fuel flow into the surge tank should probably be a lot bigger than a -6 fitting. High flow at low pressure = larger diameter pipe.
All the fuel consumed has to go through this fitting and this to my eyes would be a restriction.

Ian
Thanks. This is the system that comes with the car. I just want to make sure I have it laid out in the right order before cutting hose.
 

Steven Lobel

Bronze Supporter
#20
Slowly getting a few things rolling.

Have to get seat on brackets to sit in car and figure out where shifter goes, where pedals go, etc. So first is to weld on the steering column adapter. And I'm not skilled like the folks here. I did not know the smooth piece on the end of the column was screwed on, so I welded the wrong side first, yup- the side closest to the end. Then as I was testing my weld, it unscrewed. So I welded the other end with lots of tape over the plastic.



Bottom view



As close to plastic tab I could get



Top view



Passenger side view



Not as much welding as sticking metal together ( I hope ). If it fails with steering wheel on and wheels on ground, I will take it to a pro.


Then I bought 7/16" bolts for seats to brackets. And used a drill press to open up those holes on the bracket so they would fit. Seat is loosely assembled (and bolts in backwards) to check. 7/16" x 1" with 2 flat and 1 lock washer works well. (x8)



I purchased the Astro 1442 like most of the threads suggest. McMaster Carr rivnuts work well, the rivnuts that came with the tool are junk.

Needed to get shifter placed so laid it on paper on workbench and marked holes. Then placed on location and used punch to mark and then drill.







Those 1/4 - 20 rivnuts look awfully close to the tank height. especially with the edge moulding/sliders on tank legs. But it fits. Tested it after first rivnut placed in case it didn't fit, less to fix.



 
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