"To FE or not to FE...

Ian Anderson

Lifetime Supporter
OK you want to keep it correct you need a FE engine
But then further back you need a T44 gearbox - got a spare £100k?

Ian
 

Rick Muck- Mark IV

GT40s Sponsor
Supporter
Yes,

If you want "correct" the FE/T44 is the original combo. The reason the Windsor stroker is popular is the cost/HP balance and there are tons of places today who can make 450 HP plus on the Windsor where the FE will cost more. That said, the FE is the MK II's reason for being.

Whatever floats your boat. But don't buy an SPF set for a Windsor and then expect to drop the FE in with only diffefent mounts. Invest the time to order the chassis for what you want, and save both time and money. And remember that the FE will NOT fit under the deck of a MK I as the body will not clear the bundle of snakes. You must use a MK II decklid.
 
Show some pictures. Here is a Keith Craft 427 FE side oiler. If I remember correctly 548 hp and lots of torque. It came from a NOS NASCAR block of the time. When you see the engine on the floor before it goes into the car, you ask how will that thing go into the engine bay?
 
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Steve C

Steve
GT40s Supporter
It's all in what you want.

Scott is correct that many choose LH/center shift as did I but, for me the the FE fit the MK11 that I wanted.

I also used an RBT ZF but, with specially fabricated cover replicating a T44 cover (thanks again Pedro) that was really done to put mounting ears at the cross member like the originals therby not needing the tube spacers.

Also have "rod shift" by Olthoff (not cable).

Bottom line is we are all "posers" unless it's an original and we each do according to what is "correct" for us.

Steve P2125 (happy with my choices)

PS: Getting ready to install Olthoff's F&R brake duct kits. Here again not exactly like some original pics I have seen but, then again they were all a little different here too.
 

Seymour Snerd

Lifetime Supporter
...But don't buy an SPF set for a Windsor and then expect to drop the FE in with only diffefent mounts. Invest the time to order the chassis for what you want, and save both time and money.

Rick -- Yes, I got that when you said it the first time, and I certainly appreciate the wisdom of your advice. But I simply don't have that choice, because I already HAVE the Windsor roller. So could you help me out with some details? What precisely am I going to have to do to put an FE in there?
 

Randy V

Moderator-Admin
Staff member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
Bottom line is we are all "posers" unless it's an original and we each do according to what is "correct" for us.

Steve P2125 (happy with my choices)

:thumbsup: Could not agree more... :thumbsup:
 
It's all in what you want.

Scott is correct that many choose LH/center shift as did I but, for me the the FE fit the MK11 that I wanted.

I also used an RBT ZF but, with specially fabricated cover replicating a T44 cover (thanks again Pedro) that was really done to put mounting ears at the cross member like the originals therby not needing the tube spacers.

Also have "rod shift" by Olthoff (not cable).

Bottom line is we are all "posers" unless it's an original and we each do according to what is "correct" for us.

Steve P2125 (happy with my choices)

PS: Getting ready to install Olthoff's F&R brake duct kits. Here again not exactly like some original pics I have seen but, then again they were all a little different here too.

Do I understand that you have the rod shift option in LHD/center shift configuration? I was under the impression that the rod shift linkage was only available for the RHD/right shift configuration
 

Seymour Snerd

Lifetime Supporter
"For the life of me I can't imagine why so many people have chosen to buy or build their replicas with stroker Windsors instead."

Like Left hand drive center shift cars:stunned:

and like:
  1. Alcantara
  2. Wilwood brakes
  3. Radial Tires
  4. synthetic oil
  5. a heater
  6. air conditioning (!!!)
  7. galvanized chassis
  8. et cetera....
I see the whole thing as a multi-dimensional slippery slope on which I balance the emotional value against the cost and effort for each decision. So I think going after each other for being "inconsistent" or "irrational" is itself inconsistent and irrational. The fact that I'm spending six figures on impressionistically duplicating a 5 lb/hp piece of 60's racing ephemera for street use certifies me as insane anyway. So I for one am not going to do "my insanity is less insane than your insanity." La La La La... Next time I'm in France I'll go to Sarthe and gather up some dirt to sprinkle all over my car...
 
OK you want to keep it correct you need a FE engine
But then further back you need a T44 gearbox - got a spare £100k?

Ian

A 100k GBP, Gee Whiz, a bloke could almost be tempted to replicate one for that amount:stunned:
When these cars -Superformance- were first introduced to the market the PR blurb indicated that they had a T44 in the works, what happened to that...
Also one of the very first Big Block cars ran @ Le Mans with a MK1 rear clip & several different front clips during testing , so its not beyond the realm of possibility to fit one to a MK1- probably have to 'build your own' headers & modd the tub in places if you wished to target that car as your replica of choice..
 

Rick Muck- Mark IV

GT40s Sponsor
Supporter
SPF did not do the T44, there were a couple of people working on them. They are in the works via Mike Teske and the MK IV continuation project as well as from Lee Holman. I understand it will take somewhere in the $40,000 plus range to pry one loose.

Jim (J6) has a spare but I don't think he wants to sell it!

Jac Mac- The first "MK II" had a modified MK I deck but also a lower exhaust design so it cleared. The 1966 MK II snakes will not clear a MK I deck. But with enough money and a big enough hammer anything is possible!
 

Rick Muck- Mark IV

GT40s Sponsor
Supporter
Do I understand that you have the rod shift option in LHD/center shift configuration? I was under the impression that the rod shift linkage was only available for the RHD/right shift configuration


Dennis Olthoff builds a rod system that transfers motion from the center tunnel to the right hand transmission rod tunnel via rod ends/bellcranks. I have seen it and it works well but might be a tad dear. You would need to ask Dennis what the cost is.
 

Steve C

Steve
GT40s Supporter
RJB,

Yes it is a LHD/center console rod shift with same shift plate and mechanism including reverse flip down lever...Done "expertly" by Dennis O.

See pics in SPF Forum under P2125 or by clicking Superformance Ad banner here and go to the GT40 pics (see P2125 there).

Great and robust design, positive feel and console looks great.

Steve P2125
 
while all true that we have to make sacrifices in our efforts to build a correct replica, some because of finances, some because of parts availability, some just personal preference. However, when I think of a MK11, I think of the body shape and the motor, all the other stuff(brakes,AC, heat, Transaxle) simply do not mean as much. Now my MK11 had a roush windsor, but I bought the car used and took what it had.
 
RJB,

Yes it is a LHD/center console rod shift with same shift plate and mechanism including reverse flip down lever...Done "expertly" by Dennis O.

See pics in SPF Forum under P2125 or by clicking Superformance Ad banner here and go to the GT40 pics (see P2125 there).

Great and robust design, positive feel and console looks great.

Steve P2125

I spoke with Dennis, and he said it is very unlikely that he will ever do that again. Apparently, the effort to do so was significant, and he probably couldn't bill enough for it to make sense financially.

Steve, I guess you got a "one off" effort, never to be repeated.
 

Dave Wood

Lifetime Supporter

Also, anyone know the cost of the FE parts kit? Dave at SPF didn't know and doubted that they would swap with me for the 351 kit (which is what I have). If it's all about exhaust, where else can I get an FE bundle of snakes? What about engine mounts?

You might check out some other dealers. I know with the Cobras that was a common occurance...dealers swapping out headers for another engine model type.
I'd vote for the FE, but I have a fondness for them. I know all the Windsor parts available and yada,but I've run FE's since the 60s and still like them. As a Ford guy I've tried them all,well no 351Ms or 400s, and would still go FE. We do have a 351W in our Coupe, but i would have built a 289 if there had been small main bearing 351W blocks available at the time, may still do it. Just a little attention getter, as big and bulky as the FE is...it's pretty small when set next to a Mod motor.
The car's so light you need that bulk to keep it on the ground :)
 

Dave Wood

Lifetime Supporter
Yes,

If But don't buy an SPF set for a Windsor and then expect to drop the FE in with only diffefent mounts. Invest the time to order the chassis for what you want, and save both time and money. And remember that the FE will NOT fit under the deck of a MK I as the body will not clear the bundle of snakes. You must use a MK II decklid.

I doubt that anything in the chassis is different for an SB car over an FE. The factory doesn't know ahead of time what engine will be put in to it. That is all determined at the dealer level, so the car is the same except for color choices and what other options may be available.
 

Dave Wood

Lifetime Supporter
Ford 385 series alloy big block. It can be bigger than a FE ever thought about being, cheaper, and make more power. Oh, it won't leak either as it doesn't have the funky intake/head thing the Farm Engine has. And, you'll be unique as I don't think anyone has ever done one in a GT40 before, ever.
While that is a great observation, I'm not sure that would fit. It is longer,wider,taller and I don't know that they make a set of headers for it if it does.
 
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