Thanks Bill. Don't need a fridge, trust me it's cold enough in the garage to keep some beers chilled
Trev
Tornado Build - www.gt40builder.com
- Thread starter trevorsummers
- Start date
Thanks Bill. Don't need a fridge, trust me it's cold enough in the garage to keep some beers chilled
Trev
Oh for a garage like that!! Very nice Trevor keep up the good work!
However, if you feel like you need more of a challenge, nip round the M25 and come and help me in my single garage
Brett
Thanks Brett. I don't envy you in the single garage but have to say your car is looking awesome. I was ok in my old single garage but once the big parts start arriving for the car I would have really struggled for space. Just nice to have the extra room to move the car around in and garage is also much better lit than my old garage which makes a massive difference
Trev
Hi all
First day back in the garage today and made some good progress. I had a few holes left to drill on one of the sills and the wheel arches needed tidying, removing any access aluminium/overlaps. The wheel arches are now 100% finished and ready for powder coating.
Finally, I’ve been trying to fit the footwell top panel but I noticed that the chassis side rails that support the side of the panel are angled slightly and the front chassis bar that the front of the panel sits on is flat.
The result of this is that as the rivet tries to pull the panel towards the bottom rail and you get a bow from left to right in the panel and also a twisting force front to back causing the panel to deform. You can see the bowing in this picture:
This really isn’t a big issue and it isn’t that noticeable but it’s a little thing that annoys me as the rest of the panels are nice a straight but this panel looks slightly deformed. So I’ve come up with a potential solution which is to have a aluminium support bar made at the same profile as the side rails and sandwich it between the aluminium panel and bottom rail. The rivets will then pass through this and stop the panel twisting.
I made a template of the profile today using an off cut piece of aluminium to test the angle and theory. Do you guys think this will work? Any help much appreciated.
Trev
First day back in the garage today and made some good progress. I had a few holes left to drill on one of the sills and the wheel arches needed tidying, removing any access aluminium/overlaps. The wheel arches are now 100% finished and ready for powder coating.
Finally, I’ve been trying to fit the footwell top panel but I noticed that the chassis side rails that support the side of the panel are angled slightly and the front chassis bar that the front of the panel sits on is flat.
The result of this is that as the rivet tries to pull the panel towards the bottom rail and you get a bow from left to right in the panel and also a twisting force front to back causing the panel to deform. You can see the bowing in this picture:
This really isn’t a big issue and it isn’t that noticeable but it’s a little thing that annoys me as the rest of the panels are nice a straight but this panel looks slightly deformed. So I’ve come up with a potential solution which is to have a aluminium support bar made at the same profile as the side rails and sandwich it between the aluminium panel and bottom rail. The rivets will then pass through this and stop the panel twisting.
I made a template of the profile today using an off cut piece of aluminium to test the angle and theory. Do you guys think this will work? Any help much appreciated.
Trev
Trev,
I used aluminium angle here and being reasonably thick and robust, it did not flex during rivetting and so the panel did not pull down to the bottom rail. It also gives it a nice tidy edge.
Ian
I used aluminium angle here and being reasonably thick and robust, it did not flex during rivetting and so the panel did not pull down to the bottom rail. It also gives it a nice tidy edge.
Ian
A friend of mine had a good idea to keep things simple. His idea is to place a small aluminium strip to act as a support spine on the back of the lower rail. This should stop the panel from bowing and can quickly be drilled into place. The only question is will anything else need to be drilled into the back of that chassis rail and will my spine get in the way?
Trev
Trev
Brett James-McCall
Moderator
Trevor,
Another thought. Create a lip that runs over the top and then rivet into the vertical piece where the Clecko is. That way if you do get water in there it will just run off and not into a joint.
Brett
Another thought. Create a lip that runs over the top and then rivet into the vertical piece where the Clecko is. That way if you do get water in there it will just run off and not into a joint.
Brett
Hey Brett, Do you mean to add a piece of aluminium angle at the front like Ian suggested? I guess that would make sense if I am covering both sides of the rail and won't be able to get in and remove any water.
So changing from this:
To adding the angle like this:
Brett James-McCall
Moderator
I meant, don't use the angle and then bend the end of the footwell top panel over onto the front panel to create a lip. That way it means you get no lip for any water to pool onto, plus gives a nice radius look instead of a sharp corner. Just my 0.02
Ah I see. One small problem, the panel is already cut/drilled so no excess to fold over at the front. Otherwise that's a very good idea.
Trev,
How about putting the angle underneath the two panels? If you use a thin enough piece, at worst it will leave an ever so slight line. Be sure to use some clear caulking on the rivet line.
Bill
How about putting the angle underneath the two panels? If you use a thin enough piece, at worst it will leave an ever so slight line. Be sure to use some clear caulking on the rivet line.
Bill
fuel tanks fitted
Hi all
My rivnut tool arrived yesterday so with the help of my friend Dave we spent the afternoon fitting the fuel tanks. The tanks are fitted nicely in place and my next job is to cut the holes in the sills for the fuel sender units and also to fit some access holes and replace the nuts provided by Tornado with some hex bolts. This is a little tip I got from Scott Calabro which should make removing the fuel tanks a much easier job.
Rivnut tool
Rivnuts & bolts installed
Fuel tanks fitted
Trev
Hi all
My rivnut tool arrived yesterday so with the help of my friend Dave we spent the afternoon fitting the fuel tanks. The tanks are fitted nicely in place and my next job is to cut the holes in the sills for the fuel sender units and also to fit some access holes and replace the nuts provided by Tornado with some hex bolts. This is a little tip I got from Scott Calabro which should make removing the fuel tanks a much easier job.
Rivnut tool
Rivnuts & bolts installed
Fuel tanks fitted
Trev
Trevor, glad to see your back to work. Looks good.
Bill
Bill
Hi all, time for another update
First off my fuel tanks now have some new bolts holding them in place. I replaced the hex head bolts provided with some allen cap head bolts.
This should make the tanks easier to remove once I have cut some small access holes in the top sill, which leads on nicely to a problem I have.
I am trying to work out where the fuel sender holes should be placed in my top side sill. The reason that this is an issue is that I don't plan to carpet these sills and want to make the sender covers look as 'original' as possible.
I've mocked up a diagram of how my sills could look, please could you guys give me some feedback on the general layout. I know it's not perfect as the original cars sender covers appear to be at the front centre of the sill but I am hoping this is an acceptable layout.
Any help much apreciated
Trev
First off my fuel tanks now have some new bolts holding them in place. I replaced the hex head bolts provided with some allen cap head bolts.
This should make the tanks easier to remove once I have cut some small access holes in the top sill, which leads on nicely to a problem I have.
I am trying to work out where the fuel sender holes should be placed in my top side sill. The reason that this is an issue is that I don't plan to carpet these sills and want to make the sender covers look as 'original' as possible.
I've mocked up a diagram of how my sills could look, please could you guys give me some feedback on the general layout. I know it's not perfect as the original cars sender covers appear to be at the front centre of the sill but I am hoping this is an acceptable layout.
Any help much apreciated
Trev
Trev,
I think that fits the bill. Looks great. You are giving me ideas. Does that process ever end??
Bill
I think that fits the bill. Looks great. You are giving me ideas. Does that process ever end??
Bill
Thanks Bill, what sort of ideas are you having?
Hi all
So far it’s been a busy weekend. First off, some more info on my sills. Thanks to Mick Sollis for supplying some aluminium beading, it arrived this morning and I think it’s going to look great on the car.
Next up, I’ve been in touch with a plastics company this week that sent me some sample caps to test on the access holes for the fuel tank mounting points. They also look great and should blend nicely into the sills once they have been powder coated. The caps have a small clip mechanism that allows them to snap into place and won’t rattle around.
The image below shows the caps sitting in a piece of card, they have a very small domed top but sit really well.
Next up a massive thanks goes to Andy at Tornado. I had a slight issue with my pedal box last week where the mounting holes were slightly too far forward causing them to foul the chassis rail. After a quick call to Andy I sent them back and a new pedal box arrived within 3days. Now that’s what I call customer service! The new pedals are now in the car and look great.
The final thanks goes to my good friend Dave, who had the idea of creating a lip on the inside rail of the footwell top. We made and installed the lip today and this simple solution has worked wonders on my footwell top panel. Before I had a slight bowing in the centre of the top but now it’s 100% straight and feels much stronger.
Next up is to cut the rear bulkhead for the window and then it’s all going off to be powder coated.
Trev
So far it’s been a busy weekend. First off, some more info on my sills. Thanks to Mick Sollis for supplying some aluminium beading, it arrived this morning and I think it’s going to look great on the car.
Next up, I’ve been in touch with a plastics company this week that sent me some sample caps to test on the access holes for the fuel tank mounting points. They also look great and should blend nicely into the sills once they have been powder coated. The caps have a small clip mechanism that allows them to snap into place and won’t rattle around.
The image below shows the caps sitting in a piece of card, they have a very small domed top but sit really well.
Next up a massive thanks goes to Andy at Tornado. I had a slight issue with my pedal box last week where the mounting holes were slightly too far forward causing them to foul the chassis rail. After a quick call to Andy I sent them back and a new pedal box arrived within 3days. Now that’s what I call customer service! The new pedals are now in the car and look great.
The final thanks goes to my good friend Dave, who had the idea of creating a lip on the inside rail of the footwell top. We made and installed the lip today and this simple solution has worked wonders on my footwell top panel. Before I had a slight bowing in the centre of the top but now it’s 100% straight and feels much stronger.
Next up is to cut the rear bulkhead for the window and then it’s all going off to be powder coated.
Trev
Trevor, are we having fun yet? Keep up the good work.
Bill
Bill
