what temperature is considered overheating

I have a Rousch 427R engine and it appears that it gets hot too often and the fans have to kick in after only 20 minutes of driving in 80 degree weather. What is considered too hot where I should have a concern? I have a SP Daytona Coupe with the same engine and it never gets this hot. Any comments or advise?

Thanks!
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
What kind of Car? CAV? Other information like radiator type, any air bleed lines from the engine or radiator, oil cooler, water pump type, and general information on your cooling system.

I think you could give Roush a call and see what they say. Ask for a thermostat recommendation, both temp and manufacture. Ask them about oil temp while you are at it.

A lot of us run oil coolers and I would recommend one along with a oil thermostat in the cooler circuit. 200F for the oil is fine. At least I have never had oil problems with running my oil that temp.

The engine should run at the temp that the thermostat is designed for just like your road car. In general terms most old school American V8's like the SBF will be just fine at 180F and shouldnt have any problems up to 200-205F. Many new cars are run OEM at above the normal boiling point of water and beyond. Smog concerns are the reason and it doesn't seam to hurt them. My GTD usually runs track days in the summer all day long at 190-200F no problem.

Call Roush.
 
Last edited:

Seymour Snerd

Lifetime Supporter
I have a SP Daytona Coupe with the same engine and it never gets this hot.

As Howard says, from a cooling system design perspective overheating is any extended period of operation above the thermostat temperature. When that happens it means that heat into the system exceeds its capacity. This is undesirable.

To figure out what's going on, you and we need more data.

The fact that you have the same engine in both cars is an advantage and suggests a diagnosis strategy: look for differences. How do the sizes of the two radiators compare?

One difference I think you can count on is that the GT40 cooling system is "more spread out", has more connections and has more ups and downs in the path the coolant follows. This means there are more likely to be errors and that it's harder to bleed all the air out of it; it's possible that your GT40 just needs to be "burped." There are other threads on this forum that go into cooling system bleeding techniques.

Also verify that the GT40 system is connected up properly, and that you don't have any hose collapses on the suction side. There have been other GT40s on the forum that had connections swapped that led to cooling problems. If we knew which GT40 you have the experts for that mfr. could tell you how it's supposed to be connected.

Generally speaking, with so many connections and such length it's much easier to mess up a mid-engine cars cooling system.

Back to taking advantage of the twin engines: make some comparisons under similar conditions. Before you do this make sure both cars have thermostats that are a) working and b) the same temperature rating. (One obvious experiment is to swap thermostats. If now the Daytona overheats, you have your culprit.)

For example, at a constant speed of 50 mph or more, do the cars behave the same? If the GT40 misbehaves at speeds where there is a constant and large supply of cooling air but the Daytona doesn't, the difference is probably with air flow, radiator capacity and/or air trapped in the cooling system.

What about constant or stop-and go-below 25? If the GT40 misbehaves only when there is a shortage of cooling air, look at fan size and whether all fans are working when they're supposed to.

>>> the fans have to kick in after only 20 minutes of driving in 80 degree weathe

At what speed and what kind of driving? Any hills?

Edit: I see from another post you have a CAV: there are several CAV owner/experts and vendors here. I'm sure they will chime in.
 
Last edited:
You mentioned it was @ 92° c on the other intro thread, thats 8°c below boiling in Celsius @ std pressure, depending on the pressure your cooling system is set up for ( Rad Cap rating ) it should be able to go well above that without harm, tend to think its your Daytona that has the problem...:)
 
Guys

Thanks for all of your input!!!

I do have a CAV. I am looking for an owners manual to know what is what. Car was built in 2007 and only has 110 miles on her. Any suggestions on normal maintenance based on how little miles on car. Of course I will take care of putting more miles on her.

Dino
 

Jim Craik

Lifetime Supporter
Dino,

My SPF has a Roush sbf 342R.

I recentlry had some overheating problems that were finally traced to a bad thermostat. It was a new crate motor so my first thoughts were not with the motor.

I installed a new 90c thermostat (and drilled a small hole in it), broblem fixed.
 

Randy V

Moderator-Admin
Staff member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
What temperature is considered overheating?

When the coolant boils, it is no longer able to carry away heat.

The point at which overheating occurs is when the cooling system is not able to dissipate the heat which is being made by the engine.

How many degrees is that?

Varies..

If you run a 50/50 mixture of Water and Antifreeze as most do along with a 13# radiator cap, you're probably good for something on the order of 250 degrees F (although don't quote me on the figure as I don't have my tables at the ready)..
 
After reading these posts and speaking to Jim I feel confident that my problems may be solved by running the fans on manual when driving in the city which is what I have been mostly doing since taking possession of this beast. I have yet been able to drive on the highway but will do so shortly. If that does not solve the problem then I will try replacing thermostat and go from there. Thanks Everyone!! You make me feel so welcomed to the GT40 Family!!!
 

Tim Kay

Lifetime Supporter
I am obsessed when it comes to water temp. I probably look at my temp gauge more than the road :shy:

I always figured my gauge read a bit high and my hunch was confirmed when I went to efi and ecu. When reading the ecu water temp vs the dash gauge I get a 25^f lower reading on the ecu. That was comforting to know (reading from the same location, at the thermostat).

FWIW, gauges can be inaccurate. I would not suspect a rather new one as you have but wouldn't hurt to have it checked.
 

Ian Anderson

Lifetime Supporter
Dino

When I hit any traffic I immediately put the fan on manually and leave it on till I'm back in free flowing traffic.

I believe most fans can manage to move air at about 20mph so anything above 20mph you should get better cooling from the natural air flow (Certainly at anything over 30 mph you should see your gauge dropping

Ian
 
Guys

Went out today with fan on, ac on and the car did not run hot at all with outside temperature at 90%. Thanks for all the advise. Key was to have fan on when driving in the city.
 
Hi Dino, your CAV is not overheating, they have plenty of capacity for cooling.
CAV, in their infinite wisdom, places the sensor for the fans in the coolant pipe as the coolant leaves the engine.
So the fans are on when they don't need to be.
The coolant is always hot leaving the engine so the fan sensor should be placed where the coolant is exiting the radiator, if it is still hot there then the fans need to be activated.
Dave
 
Back
Top