Audi Slave Cylinder Help
- Thread starter Wally Hunt
- Start date
Wally is it blowing the piston out the end, like its got to much stroke.
If it is you need to reduce the pedal thow or reduce the master bore size.
A smaller master bore will give a lighter pedal.
Jim
If it is you need to reduce the pedal thow or reduce the master bore size.
A smaller master bore will give a lighter pedal.
Jim
Is it the alloy 5 speed or plastic 6 speed slave cylinder??
When we could not get the alloy 5 speed slave unit Jim C modified the 6 speed plastic unit for me.Had the same issue where ran out of stroke and pushed end out of the slave.
By memory had to make a pushrod approx 5/8" longer than the Audi one.
Hope this helps.
Cheers
When we could not get the alloy 5 speed slave unit Jim C modified the 6 speed plastic unit for me.Had the same issue where ran out of stroke and pushed end out of the slave.
By memory had to make a pushrod approx 5/8" longer than the Audi one.
Hope this helps.
Cheers
Hi These are cast iron units and seam to work just fine for a while then start leaking. They have a snap ring in the end so they can't overtravel and if I were to be extending them to that point I would think the pedal would feel hard, These still work as long as I keep fluid in them, I did notice when I was in the parade yesterday that the clutch was starting to engage after about 1/2 minute of being stopped so I was shifting to neutral and staying off the clutch pedal. The first of these was the one that came in the car, May have been the original. Replaced by a BECK/ Arnley that started leaking with about 500 miles on it and was 2 weeks out of warranty. Installed a Bendix unit 2 weeks ago and it was the one that failed yesterday. I'm wondering if these are NOS and have been around longer then there shelf life. As far as changing the master I have to make sure I have this fully depressed to get it into gear as is. What modifications are need to install the plastic 6 speed unit ??? Thanks
Ian Anderson
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I am no expert but have read that certain brake fluids cause seals to swell and fail.
You may have the wrong fluid for the uit
Ian
You may have the wrong fluid for the uit
Ian
Wally
If you do go the 6 speed plastic unit they have a different mounting bolt location.
From memory I made an adaptor that was bolted to the web below the slave, then the slave bolted to that.
It was fairly basic stuff.
There is also a hose mode you will need to do.
If you can buy the fitting that clips into the slave you should buy it and adapt it to your fluid line.
I machined mine but I dont know if you have a lathe.
Ian has a good point about the fluid.
Something odd ,to many slaves in that short time.
Jim
If you do go the 6 speed plastic unit they have a different mounting bolt location.
From memory I made an adaptor that was bolted to the web below the slave, then the slave bolted to that.
It was fairly basic stuff.
There is also a hose mode you will need to do.
If you can buy the fitting that clips into the slave you should buy it and adapt it to your fluid line.
I machined mine but I dont know if you have a lathe.
Ian has a good point about the fluid.
Something odd ,to many slaves in that short time.
Jim
Wally, I would recommend finding an Ate unit - that's what was originally fitted to that box. Ate makes great stuff....personally, I'm not a fan of Beck...have had those fail prematurely.
Definitely check the throw. Even if there's a circlip so that the piston can't overextend, if you're bumping up against the circlip with a lot of pressure then that can put a lot of strain on the seals.
Do you know what clutch you have? You may have a heavier clutch which puts a greater strain on the slave than it's original design spec.
Just a couple thoughts.
Definitely check the throw. Even if there's a circlip so that the piston can't overextend, if you're bumping up against the circlip with a lot of pressure then that can put a lot of strain on the seals.
Do you know what clutch you have? You may have a heavier clutch which puts a greater strain on the slave than it's original design spec.
Just a couple thoughts.
Dave has a point with the heat.
I have rapped my pipes above the slave and heat barrier over the slave and line.
I dont have issues even on the dyno.
Do you have anything protecting it wally.
Jim
I have rapped my pipes above the slave and heat barrier over the slave and line.
I dont have issues even on the dyno.
Do you have anything protecting it wally.
Jim
Hi Thanks for the info I now have an Ate unit being sent. So I will install it once it arrives but will be storing the car soon and will not know till next year how long it will hold up. As most of this is in the bellhousing making a shield for it was easy just don't know how effective it is. Wally
Wally, can I ask how the Ate unit has been working for you? My clutch slave cylinder on my RF (Audi 016) went out/leaked last weekend for the first time. Found this thread and ordered an Ate unit per Cliff Beer's recommendation. Arrived yesterday and in a short time I swapped it out and finished bleeding the system. All is ok now and back in action but curious how you are managing.
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Hi Tim The first replacement ATE unit fail just like before. I was able to get a bore scope camera and could see that when the piston was at rest it was pushed back in the bore to where the seal was part way past the fluid feed hole. So I added a new retaining pin groove 1/2 " back on the body and also drilled and taped the end of the cylinder so if this ever moves to the point that it would leak it will contact the stop bolt instead of filling the bellhousing with fluid. I believe that the clutch wear may be changing the position of this, Now it can change 1/2 " before it becomes a problem again. I have about 1K on this since I installed the modified unit with no loss of fluid. As the adapters clutch and flywheel may be different from one application to the next, that is what I think created this issue. Wally
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