Kiwi scratchbuilt

Dave,
I hate to say it but if you look when the info on posting from Paul was posted, it was 2004. It is much easier now. You don't have to worry about resizing a pic. It can be imported and will be automatically re sized for the forum. If the person viewing wants to look at it in its original size they can click on the adjoining bar and it will be displayed in its full glory. It may take using the slider bar in the horizontal and vertical to view it though. Here is how I do it.
Go to the trouble to open a photobucket page and bookmark it, or make it one of your favorites depending on which browser you use.
You can make as many folders as you wish for the subjects you want. Import one or as many pics as you want to photobucket(they have a bulk upload tool that is pretty nifty). You can assign tags and dates etc. as you wish. If not just go back to your home page and they will be added to the end of the opening folder or somewhere in your folder depending on what tag you put on it. Then you can move them around to other folders if you wish.
When typing you post and you reach a part where you want to display a pic(you can do it right there or at the end, your choice), here is what you do.
In the upper right hand corner of the screen, click on the minimize button.
Open up a new browser window(IE or firefox or whatever you are using). click on the bookmark/favorite for photobucket. Find the pic you want to post and put your arrow/pointer over the pic. Several small action tabs will open. They will say:
EMAIL & IM
DIRECT LINK
HTML CODE
IMG CODE

Move the arrow/cursor/pointer over Direct Link, left click it. It will darken in color. Then right click it and chose COPY. On the bottom bar, right click on the GT 40.com-Reply button and the reply page will pop back up. Move the cursor over the button at the top of the reply window that has the mountain tops. It will say Insert Image. Right click it and a window will pop open and it will say "Please enter the URL of your image:". Right click in the box(you don't have to remove the darkened http://) and click on paste. Hit the OK button and the image will be added to your post right there in full living color.
If you want to add more text, hit the Enter button and your cursor should be after the pic and type away. If you want to add another pic after that bit of typing do the same as before. If you want to add two or more pics at one time just hit the Enter button after the first pic shows up in the Reply Thread Box to give you a space after your first pic, and do the procedure again. The second pic will be right after the first and so on.
To me it is better than the Thumbnails as people can see it without having to click on it and wait for it to pop open. I have DSL and it ain't the fastest at doin things. Play aroud with it on a trial post without actually posting. The image should apear in your reply thread. Hit the Preview Post button to see what it looks like. If you like the way it is laid out then hit the Submit Reply button and you are done. If it doesn't apear in the preview page then you made a mistake somewhere. Hope this helps.

Bill
 
hallo russ, hier meine getriebeschaltung für ein g50/00 porsche getriebe. alle gänge lassen sich super durchschalten auch der rückwertsgang . du solltest flugzeuggelenke nehmen und nicht die einfachen wie auf dein foto.
gruß aus germany meinolf
 

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Russ Noble

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Looks good Meinolf. Very similar system. Aircraft joints are good but the joints I am using are more than adequate for the job required, and are only a fraction of the cost. Cost, weight and effectiveness are always the main considerations with this build.

By the way, looking at the distributor in your photo. I think you've got your motor in backwards!:lol:
 
Alright Russ,and others who tolerate the 930's shift quality! I promise to post up some pics of the Albins dog gear conversion later today,but let me at least give my first impressions from this past weekend's first outing with them. I am very pleased! The ability to shift as fast as my hand could move through the gate is very nice.A far cry from the previous pause between gears and a shift feel more akin to a Mack truck! Changing the ratios to better suit the V8 made all the difference as the car is much more fun to drive with the engine in it's power band. I started the first day using the clutch to upshift and downshift,but later on as I got comfortable I started to rev-match the upshifts with just a hint of clutch dip,progressing to just a lift.The downshifts are still being done with a clutch dip and blip of throttle. For me this is the perfect solution as I just could not justify the $15k and up of a Hewland DGB.
I would like to know if there would be any interest in a build(restoration,actually) log in the racecar section of my car.A Pontiac Fiero ex-IMSA GTU tube chassis racer from the mid 80's.I re-powered it with a Corvette LS6 and 930 'box. Jac Mac,yes this is Jack Ondrack's old car!
 
Here are some pics of the Albin's dog change conversion for the 930 trans.The center case needs to be clearanced in the area of the first gear drive gear.With a taller ratio,the larger gear will contact the case,although not much material needs to be removed.
 

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Russ Noble

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Dave, I haven't had the good fortune yet to "tolerate the 930 shift quality" That's a joy that awaits me!

Interesting photos of the Albins setup..... Typical Porsche though, nothing simple....

If my memory serves me right all the dog boxes that I have seen (30 yrs ago LOL) just have the drive taken by the dogs, but in this setup it looks as though there is an additional set of splines alongside the dogs that do the actual driving. I would have thought that would have the potential to cause a baulk, but obviously not. It looks like the dogs must engage first in such a way that the splines then line up and slip in. I guess that takes some of the (un-noticable) power on/power off backlash out of the system.

Nothing like making a simple item complex/expensive!! :rolleyes:
 
Go back to the simple version Russ, those splines on the 'gear' only locate the dog ring to the gear, serve no purpose in gear engagement or backlash reduction.
 

Russ Noble

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So why have them splined? If they engage they must reduce the backlash in the dogs. Otherwise a simple shoulder/recess would suffice to locate the dog ring and gear...

And Dave, yes put up a thread for your restoration of that IMSA car. Variety is the spice of life!
 
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The reason the dogs are splined onto the gears is servicability. If I ding up a dog or two then using the threaded holes in the dog,thread bolts into them and push the dog off the gear and press a new dog on. The Albins gear ratios cost $850 each and dogs and dog rings only $100-$120 each . This is along the lines of Hewland ratios at $150 for used or $295 new,but when a dog is worn out,the pair must be thrown out.
 

Russ Noble

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Thanks Dave I didn't realise they were a two piece item. Makes sense. As a matter of interest though, do the splines on the dog engage with the splines on the gear? It looks like they may, unless the dogs don't move that far. Albins could be killing two birds with one stone here?

Years ago when budget racing with a Mk5 Hewland, and later an FT200, I used to get other guys throw away gearsets and dog rings and recondition them so I could use them by building the rounded edges of the dogs back up and dressing them off square again. Fairly common Kiwi practice.
 
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There is no relative movement between the dogs and the gears once the dog is pressed onto the gear.The slider is the only moving(sliding) part to engage the gear. The slider slides on the hub the same way Hewland does. Yes, you can re-grind the dog to make is usable,only up to the certain point before you don't have enough dog left .
 

Russ Noble

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Thanks Jac Mac. Yeah, I know they're undercut what I meant was building the rounded off face up so that it presented a flat edge again. I guess 'squared off' was a bad choice of phrase.

With regard to the other question, Dave, I know how the sliders work but we seem to be getting our wires crossed, and it was only an item of passing interest and of no great importance. I may be seeing something that's not there, so I'll throw that one in the 'too hard' basket and satisfy my curiosity later, in detail, when I get some parts in my hand!
 
Hi Russ,

I found some pictures comparing a gear set from my Hollinger and from the VGC, thought they may be of interest

Hope things are progressing

Regards

Iain
 

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Hi Russ, thanks for the info on the 930 gearbox. When do you think you will finish the car? Do you have a time frame for it, or is it only when you have spare time, you work on it?



Bye the way its good to see the ANZAC spirit is still alive. I believe a Kiwi built the power plant for the bloke who lives next door to me.

www.aussieinvader.com
 

Russ Noble

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Tim, I'm working fairly steadily on the car mainly in my spare time. Rest assured I am making as much spare time available as possible. Unfortunately the need to put bread on the table is a bit of a limitation in that respect.

I'm doing all the unspectacular stuff at present. Oil, water, fuel and brake lines, electrics, some fibreglassing inside the front and rear clips and getting everything ready for final assembly.

I've still got to do some paneling in the cockpit area and scuttle, and fabricate the steering arms plus a host of other smaller stuff. I have stopped making predictions about the finishing date, but I think it is now measured in weeks rather than months.....
 
Hi Russ, Keep up the good work there is a lot of DIY in your project and its a credit to yourself for what you have built. I have watched Rosco build 3 jet cars in his shed over the last 24 years. Like most of the guys building cars on this forum he has struggled with money etc... but he has never let go of his dream. My hat goes off to everyone building cars here, as long as when they are finished you are still young enough to enjoy what you have built.

Made my day reading the forum Russ. Was about to order a dry sump system from ASE... mite have to rethink that one.
 

Russ Noble

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Whilst I have been finishing off the electrics, Lim has been quietly working away machining the castings for the door handles and fuel caps and mounting up the door handles. There is a minor issue with microporosity which doesn't show up until the item is polished. Lim is working with the casting guy to try and get perfect castings. Lim is a perfectionist and is treating this casting process as a learning experience. He uses his 80x magnifier to check the quality. Me? I think they look good the way they are!
 

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80x magnifier for checking casting quality ? Phew, thats one item you better leave at home next time you visit me. Im working out how to apply a vacuum pump to my transaxle to prevent the leaks!!:)
 
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