Tornado Build - www.gt40builder.com
- Thread starter trevorsummers
- Start date
Thanks Keith
From what I am aware the Tornado steering assembly meets the required regs. Hopefully Andy can chip in and advise
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Trev, current IVA manual is at http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/Transport_files/124_IVA_M1_Inspection_Manual_Version_1111.pdf
As I understand it there are two things you need to worry about as a builder.
1) If you have a flat wheel you need a padded boss.
2) The steering column has to collapse. How it does this depends somewhat on the design but from looking at the pictures the Tornado has a fixed outer tube so there has to be some collapse between the end of the column and the wheel, ie a collapsible boss.
There is a third thing to worry about if you are a scratch builder (I put this just for anyone finding this through a search later) and that is that the linkage between the column and rack is such that any impact which displaces the rack will not transmit a force up the steering column. Simply put this just means that the two universal joints are at slight angles and it isn't just a straight line from rack to column.
1) If you have a flat wheel you need a padded boss.
2) The steering column has to collapse. How it does this depends somewhat on the design but from looking at the pictures the Tornado has a fixed outer tube so there has to be some collapse between the end of the column and the wheel, ie a collapsible boss.
There is a third thing to worry about if you are a scratch builder (I put this just for anyone finding this through a search later) and that is that the linkage between the column and rack is such that any impact which displaces the rack will not transmit a force up the steering column. Simply put this just means that the two universal joints are at slight angles and it isn't just a straight line from rack to column.
Trevor
All of our cars and components are designed to be fully IVA compliant.
Thanks
Andy
All of our cars and components are designed to be fully IVA compliant.
Thanks
Andy
Trev, while its not needed and never going to be seen I'd personally panel over this bit indicated in the picture below with a reasonably fairly thick piece of aluminium (eg 2mm) for a bit of added chassis stiffness, obviously with a hole cut in it for the radius arm! Preferably with flanged edges too.
I suggest it because I previously modelled a few different designs of chassis and on all of the space frame versions that's the 'weak' point of the rear end of the car due to inability to be able to add a cross brace because of the radius arms. Obviously the chassis itself can be made 'better' but at the expense of adding extra metal (either in extra or thicker beams), hence extra weight and chassis stiffness is forever a compromise between weight and stiffness.
How much difference it will actually make I don't know, its certainly not going to be an issue if you don't but its worth considering.
I suggest it because I previously modelled a few different designs of chassis and on all of the space frame versions that's the 'weak' point of the rear end of the car due to inability to be able to add a cross brace because of the radius arms. Obviously the chassis itself can be made 'better' but at the expense of adding extra metal (either in extra or thicker beams), hence extra weight and chassis stiffness is forever a compromise between weight and stiffness.
How much difference it will actually make I don't know, its certainly not going to be an issue if you don't but its worth considering.
Cheers David
Not sure where things are going to fit just yet. I won't be drilling anything into place until much later in the build so these panels will probably change as the build progresses
Ian Anderson
Lifetime Supporter
Hi all
Well despite the cold weather at the moment I braved the garage this weekend and got a good chunk of the rear panelling done. Still have a few panels to do but it's coming along nicely.
Trev
Trevor
Have you allowed for the rod gear change mechanism through that piece?
Ian
Not yet Ian, once the panels are provisionally made they will come off the car and go into storage until the car is almost finished and any additional access holes for things like the rod gear change will be added before the panels are drilled and rivetted into place.
A little more progress. I've added some panels along inside of the chassis just inside where the fuel tanks sit (blue panel). These panels mean that the whole rear end is sealed up with only the two opens for the radius arms to pass through.
It's taking extra time to panel but should make the whole chassis look really good and be nicely sealed.
It's taking extra time to panel but should make the whole chassis look really good and be nicely sealed.
The new rear panels are practically finished after a busy weekends work. Over the last two days I remade a panel I wasn't happy with then made up the last 2 panels and now everything just needs a bit more fettling. I also test fitted two panels to sit along next to the fuel tanks that would completely seal the back of the car but there isn't quite enough room for the aluminium sheet to fit so I am going to try and find a work around in the next few days. I've also marked all panels for rivet layout which won't be needed for a while yet.
The back of the car is looking really good, glad I put the time and effort as the shape is much nicer now.
The back of the car is looking really good, glad I put the time and effort as the shape is much nicer now.
Tonight I had a go at making a template to seal the rear panels off next to the fuel tanks. The original idea was to put the panel on the outside of the chassis for easy access but there isn't enough room between the tanks and the chassis frame for the aluminium panel to sit so instead I am looking at putting the panel on the inside of the chassis.
Trev, as always,great work. However, I would not close that are without thinking about an access panel, on both sides of the car. This is the area where I stored a lot of stuff, like fuel pump, Armtech Battery CutOff, Catchtank, Starter Relay and so on...Also If I would do the build again, I would use that are for blower or two to suck air from underneath the chassis, using a NACA Duct and a tube blower like this one
ISA-Racing Online Shop - Turbo 3000 Blower 3399-40
and blow it into the engine compartment, using a temp switch.
and an Escape NACA Duct on the Rearwindow like this one
http://www.isa-racing.com/product_info.php/info/p6232{159}2275_NACA-Air-Duct-mit-Abri-kante.html
in transparent.....It makes miracles to the overall climate under the hood....if you are in a traffic jam, and if you are driving it pressures so much air into the compartment you can't imagine ...
The escape duct I used from day one and it was great ...
Just my 2cn't.
Cheers
(C)arlos
ISA-Racing Online Shop - Turbo 3000 Blower 3399-40
and blow it into the engine compartment, using a temp switch.
and an Escape NACA Duct on the Rearwindow like this one
http://www.isa-racing.com/product_info.php/info/p6232{159}2275_NACA-Air-Duct-mit-Abri-kante.html
in transparent.....It makes miracles to the overall climate under the hood....if you are in a traffic jam, and if you are driving it pressures so much air into the compartment you can't imagine ...
The escape duct I used from day one and it was great ...
Just my 2cn't.
Cheers
(C)arlos
![DSCN3853 [640x480].JPG](/data/attachments/45/45962-488613fe52deb1f735b7de64a504d37b.jpg)
I have been trying to think about access which is why I wanted to put that panel on the outside and possibly add a removable cover. I'll take another look and see what's possible. The plan isn't to drill any of these panels until later in the build so once more parts start going on the car it should be clearer where I need access
