ditto-great thread and very nice build.
Ken's SLC build thread
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ditto-great thread and very nice build.
As do I. I am subscribed to your thread and am impressed with every addition.
Incoorporating a stock IP really brings a "production car" feel. I modified a C5 IP for my build.
Ken Roberts
Supporter
Both humps were cut out of the dash. A bracket has been made to mount the cluster at the correct angle and distance from the bulkhead. The bracket was bolted to the bulkhead using rivetnuts.
Now on to mounting the heads up display in front of the cluster.
Now on to mounting the heads up display in front of the cluster.
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Ken Roberts
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For safety reasons (foot interference) I completely removed both the tilt and telescopic motors from the steering column. I found the telescopic feature to be useless anyways as I want it extended out as far as it can go. The tilt feature will still be used .....I will just build a small wheel for the cable to adjust it up or down manually.
Ken Roberts
Supporter
I was amazed at how our builds are similar Vidal. Your website build log is inspiring!
I see you cut the drivers side Aircon vent away too. Guess it won't fit without doing that. What's the plan for the vents? Interesting...
Like to see that bracket as well. Idea's are popping, damn! Just finished making a solid back fiberglass window that fits flush, thinking about what I'll do with it now.
Like to see that bracket as well. Idea's are popping, damn! Just finished making a solid back fiberglass window that fits flush, thinking about what I'll do with it now.
Ken Roberts
Supporter
I just posted a picture of the bracket Jack in post #303. I think I'll attempt to move the A/C vents to the center location. The remaining vent location on the passenger side might house my fuel pressure gauge. It actually matches the Corvette gauges in appearance.
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Ken, its been awhile since I read your entire build site, so I don't remember if you cut off the useless Cadillac rectangular housing that surrounds the steering column. The tilt & telescopic drive motors are mounted to the bottom of this housing and makes them hang very low, to the point my toes would hit when on the pedals. I assume that is the safety issue you are referring to.
I cut the housing of and made a mounting plate that I fastened to the top of the steering column and mounted the motors to the plate. This gave me plenty of clearance for my size 9.5's. I you want to gain an additional 3/4”, you can mount the motors without a mounting plate to the ceiling of the foot well; however, I believe that you have to lengthen the wire loom to accomplish that.
Just my 2 cents worth! Nice job on customizing your dash....as a matter of fact nice job on the entire build:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Jim (build #145)
Ken Roberts
Supporter
Many thanks for the compliment Jim. I did end up cutting off the aluminum frame from the front of the steering column.
Be careful mounting the telescopic motor though. It has to move forward/backward when the column moves forward/backward. That's why it's mounted to that long plastic leg.
Be careful mounting the telescopic motor though. It has to move forward/backward when the column moves forward/backward. That's why it's mounted to that long plastic leg.
Ken Roberts
Supporter
It's important to mention the fact that the C6 Corvette gauge cluster can only be used if you are using a BCM (body control module). I didn't purchase the ISIS wiring harness. My wiring is basically taken from a C6 Vette. All the "not used" features are depinned from the harness. I built the engine harness the same way.
Ken- On the gauge cluster. Are you concerned about how high it sits on top of the column? The reason I say this is that when I sat in seat that was low I could not see a car right in front of the stock cluster height, now I am short at 5-6, but still. Just thinking when you put the cover on top and sitting there will you be able to see good? I plan on making a custom dash myself and this is something I am concerned with, but will be using the Koso, just not sure if I will mount it a little offset to get it as low as I can.
Ken Roberts
Supporter
I'm 6'1" Troy and my seat is not as reclined as some others. The new dash height at the top of the gauges might be about an inch taller. It looks deceiving.
Ken,
As is your build thread. Your markers were the answer to a long search for the right markers. Thank you.
Body / Body Work - GEN2 GTM Supercar BUILD
My feet didn't hit the motors but, just like you I found the fore/aft adjustment useless. I also am doing the same for the tilt ajustment - putting it on a wheel. Bye, Bye motors. BTW if one is using ISIS, eliminating the motors that drive the tilt feature also allows one to eliminate the somewhat bulky H bridge component from the loom.
Nice work on that dash Ken, that's going to be cool.
Ken Roberts
Supporter
Here's some pictures and description of how I mounted the center console arm rest.
I purchased from McMaster Carr a stainless steel piano hinge (#1582A274) and stainless steel grab catch (#1659A7). I marked off the hinge in the first picture to show you how it was cut up. It's important to mention that you must space your mounting screws for the hinge in such a way that the bottom screws don't line up with the top hinge screws when closed.
I purchased from McMaster Carr a stainless steel piano hinge (#1582A274) and stainless steel grab catch (#1659A7). I marked off the hinge in the first picture to show you how it was cut up. It's important to mention that you must space your mounting screws for the hinge in such a way that the bottom screws don't line up with the top hinge screws when closed.
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Ken Roberts
Supporter
Next up was how to securely keep the arm rest closed. The forward part of the lid couldn't be used due to a lack of mounting space so I chose to mount the "grab catch" in the middle. A small rubber bumper will be installed later at the front.
Here is a picture showing the male part of the grab catch from the bottom of the console with the arm rest in the closed position. The rectangular block is made slightly smaller than the hole. It adds strength in case of a side blow/hit.
Here is a picture showing the male part of the grab catch from the bottom of the console with the arm rest in the closed position. The rectangular block is made slightly smaller than the hole. It adds strength in case of a side blow/hit.
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