SLC Hubs/ race worthy

[Ken Roberts]

Ya I know I have been thinking about that. More when there is a solution.

Possibly a spacer/adapter could be machined (chromoly) that would bolt to the original upright and then the C6 hub could be clocked differently and then bolted to the adapter/spacer.

The cost of the adapters made from chromoly would probably be getting close to just having a new upright center section machined.

 

[Howard Jones]

Thinkin the same thing as a friend of mine, That's why it's a good thing that the C6 is "shorter" than the C4. The problem is the second gen. upright with the ribbing isn't flat. My early one is flat however and I think that might work.

As it turns out the difference in hub height is right at .31 or 3/16ish. 3/16X 6 inch steel plate is available so its just a matter of drilling a center hub big hole and two sets of 3 mount holes at difference radius clocked opposite each other. I'm thinking that the adapter plate needs to be pined to the upright, maybe with roll pins.

Then just mount the X tracker hub with 3 bolts as before, sandwiching the adapter between it and the upright.

The last question is does this effect the length of the stub shaft. Gonna have to think some more on that.

 

[Ken Roberts]

What will you do with the stubshaft? I'm sure a custom set will be needed. That will really hurt the pocket book. An off the shelf 33 spline stub shaft from a C6 Corvette will not fit. The "My Race Shop" may be able to help us but their stub shafts are for a thinner OEM Corvette upright.

 

[Jac Mac]

0.31" is ~5/16" Howard, not 3.

 

[Howard Jones]

Thanks for the typo check, Jac. By the way how would you locate the 5/16 steel spacer to the aluminum upright. I was thinking spring pins using the original three holes no longer needed for the new hub and then three new bolts to fasten the new hub to the upright using three new holes to match the new hubs bolt pattern.

Ken, new stub shafts are required unless you stay with the original C4 hubs. They won't work for me so new correct splined stub shafts will be necessary. I have a couple of ideas but until one of them firms up I don't want to say more for now. Maybe next week.

 

[Ken Roberts]

I must have the second gen of the upright. My hub sits on a machined mound that sticks out from the upright.
Howard I would even suggest just going to a top of the line C4 hub for a year and see what happens. The SKF or Timken are known as premium quality.

 

[Jac Mac]

Thanks for the typo check, Jac. By the way how would you locate the 5/16 steel spacer to the aluminum upright. I was thinking spring pins using the original three holes no longer needed for the new hub and then three new bolts to fasten the new hub to the upright using three new holes to match the new hubs bolt pattern.

Being in Kiwi Land my options would not be as wide as yours, but really are there any 'factory' options from other vehicles that would stand the forces yours and other combos like it are experiencing. .. I would find a rear wheel bearing kit of suitable bearing size ( probably from full floating hub on light delivery truck etc ) and machine up a steel bearing hub, ( probably enlarge the current bearing carrier hole in the alloy upright to accomodate and use 4 or more bolts ) and use the C4 wheel flange as drive only ( no weight bearing ). Your failure is likely due to wide tire and outboard offset exceeding strength of splined shaft limits and slightly stretching that shaft, relaxing effective bolt torque and your on your way to failure.
You could also look into some of the full floating hub kits sold for Nascar etc.

 

[HCF - John]

Here's an example of an upright we recently made for a race car (attached).

Producing a solution for the SLC would be easy, with only replacements for the upright and stub axle needed... each designed to work with the X-tracker bearing assembly. Axles made from 300M and uprights likely mil spec 7075 aluminum.

If we could deliver that for about $1500 per side, would there be interest?
Shoot me an email or PM if you'd rather not post in the thread.
Best,
John

 

[Ken Roberts]

I'd be interested.

 

[Ed Davis]

I posted pictures of a race hub that Raver uses on there car. FB Superlite builders

 

[Howard Jones]

Ed can you post a link to the pictures you referenced. If I google "FB superlight builders" I get nothing useful.

 

[Ken Roberts]

You have to be on facebook and then invited to join their group to see the posts.

 

[Ed Davis]

I will post on my FB Edwin Davis Fairfax Va

 

[Howard Jones]

Jac........like this only with a flange on the end to bolt on the upright?

http://www.raceproducts.net/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/1500-Steel_Floater_Kit_Info-_Sheet2.pdf

 

[Ed Davis]

Will it work with a independent rear?

 

[Howard Jones]

Here's another idea. This one uses a tapered bearing and has a flange to bolt to the upright. A new stub shaft would be required. Idea would be to use only the separate hub without the axle or brake parts.

http://www.cachassisworks.com/Attachments/DataSheets/CamaroFloater_DS_WEB.pdf

I am trying to work through the different concepts on this thread with the idea to publicly enlist additional solutions.

 

[Brian Kissel]

Howard,
There is updated info on Chris's site. Your brochure was revised in 2012. This one is from 2017. Page 3 in this one shows the HD bearing with a Forgeline nut available also.


https://www.cachassisworks.com/Attachments/DataSheets/85XX-XXX_floateraxle_DS_WEB.pdf

Here are some details that might help also.

https://www.cachassisworks.com/Attachments/Instructions/7951-8531.pdf

Looking forward to your end result.
Regards Brian

 

[Howard Jones]

Looking at that big hub again I see it has a very large diameter wheel center. It won't work on corvette wheels unless they make other versions.

 

[Ron McCall]

Here's an example of an upright we recently made for a race car (attached).

Producing a solution for the SLC would be easy, with only replacements for the upright and stub axle needed... each designed to work with the X-tracker bearing assembly. Axles made from 300M and uprights likely mil spec 7075 aluminum.

If we could deliver that for about $1500 per side, would there be interest?
Shoot me an email or PM if you'd rather not post in the thread.
Best,
John

Interested.

Ron

 

[Howard Jones]

Jac thought it would be worthwhile to add pictures of my rear hub failure. For more detailed information please see my build thread. It is important to remember this is a race use on big ass slicks, failure. I would not expect this to happen on a street use street tire car.

However any up grade solution I come up with would have a dual use street/track day application.