Aaron's SL-C build...
- Thread starter Aaron Hamilton
- Start date
Ken Roberts
Supporter
Aaron by mounting the fan shroud close to the rad core you I'm afraid you have accidently decreased it's efficiency. The air coming in from the nose at speed will hit the non cut out areas of the shroud and act like a blanking plate. It looks like you've lost 25% of the rad core area.
OEM always box their fan shrouds a few inches away from the core. Then some use rubber flaps for the areas that aren't cut out.
OEM always box their fan shrouds a few inches away from the core. Then some use rubber flaps for the areas that aren't cut out.
My splitter is already nicked and dinged up, don't take much, anything in the road will get it, especially dead animals, might clear a squirrels, let alone pulling into any driveway, yours looks good, Ill probably get another one for next year along with the side rails, maybe Im just to ruff on stuff, but I drive mine every day and hit 100 and spin the wheels at least one time with it each journey that's what its for right?
Make sure your fans have some CFM to them, the cheapy ones are in the low 2000 cfm, get around 3000 cfm and they get up to around 2-300 bucks a pair, but I have found out that the cfm is what makes it keep cool. Just my FYI from building hot rods for 35 years.
Keep up the good work Aaron. Another few weeks and Ill be taking mine apart to finish it up.
Make sure your fans have some CFM to them, the cheapy ones are in the low 2000 cfm, get around 3000 cfm and they get up to around 2-300 bucks a pair, but I have found out that the cfm is what makes it keep cool. Just my FYI from building hot rods for 35 years.
Keep up the good work Aaron. Another few weeks and Ill be taking mine apart to finish it up.
Actually we don't supply the clamps shown in your pictures at all, they must have come from the previous owner of your kit
The only clamps we use are rubber cushion p clips
The only clamps we use are rubber cushion p clips
Depending on how you are using those, couldn't you get something like this and mount the insulation between it and the other surface? I suppose your concept does similar or could do both with a phenolic, nylon or resin spacer/gasket at bracket/frame interface.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lng-22757/overview/
Heat transfer rates of Materials for thinking outside the box. As we move the water through convection to the radiator we are concerned with conduction to frame rail. So both the material and the surface area of contact play a factor here. Keep contact points small and insulate metal transfer surfaces.
Aluminum 237
Brass 110
Cellulose 0.039
Copper 398
Glass wool 0.040
Gold 315
Cast Iron 55
Sheep's wool 0.038
Lead 35.2
Cellulose 0.039
Silver 427
Expanded Polystyrene 0.03
Zinc 113
Wood 0.13
Polyethylene (HDPE) 0.5
Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) 0.19
Water 0.58
Dense Brick 1.6
Air 0.024
Concrete (Low Density) 0.2
Concrete (High Density) 1.5
Ice 2.18
Porcelain (s) 1.05
Thermal Conductivity of some common Materials and Gases
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lng-22757/overview/
Heat transfer rates of Materials for thinking outside the box. As we move the water through convection to the radiator we are concerned with conduction to frame rail. So both the material and the surface area of contact play a factor here. Keep contact points small and insulate metal transfer surfaces.
Aluminum 237
Brass 110
Cellulose 0.039
Copper 398
Glass wool 0.040
Gold 315
Cast Iron 55
Sheep's wool 0.038
Lead 35.2
Cellulose 0.039
Silver 427
Expanded Polystyrene 0.03
Zinc 113
Wood 0.13
Polyethylene (HDPE) 0.5
Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) 0.19
Water 0.58
Dense Brick 1.6
Air 0.024
Concrete (Low Density) 0.2
Concrete (High Density) 1.5
Ice 2.18
Porcelain (s) 1.05
Thermal Conductivity of some common Materials and Gases
We do not include clamps because everyone has their own opinions about what they want to use....much like the previous owner chose to use the ones you have over rubber cushion P clamps that I much prefer to use
Yes and yes and its my personal preference..much easier to package in tighter locations to.
For what it's worth...I think I'm the one who's guilty of introducing those clamps to Jim. They're really nice and robust, but can only be used on the sides of the chassis under the body. Like Fran says...packaging is tight so you'll still need the insulated P clamps for everywhere else that the coolant pipes need to be secured. Probably don't need anything more than the P clamps.
I think those roll bar clamps are a result of my pre-kit buying spree! :thumbsup:
I think those roll bar clamps are a result of my pre-kit buying spree! :thumbsup:
Yos, you're correct, I first saw the roll bar clamps on your build and thought that the side coolant supply/return lines would be a perfect application for a rigid clamp. IMO; they are classier and much sturdier than cheap P-clamps and eliminate the possibility of the pipes banging against the chassis. Foam pipe insulation fits perfectly in the 1-3/4” clamp and not only acts as a heat insulator but also eliminates any squeaks and rattles!
Jim
