Ive been working on thickening the front portion of doors as well as the door locking mechanism area. Door sub-assembly of the left-hand door is in process. The fiberglass thickness at the J hinge mounting area was only 1/16” thick and the area was flimsy.
Reviving this thread, I dug through it again. Any pointers to how you changed the OMP logo on the steering wheel? I was going to make a vinyl inlay, but I think I may use the inverse of the vinyl as a stencil and paint it, but curious what you did.
Howard had some recent brake issues he thought might be attributed to uneven cooling of his front rotors. I think Ken mentioned something about best practices with regard to directing the cooling airflow (into the vanes between the inboard/outboard rotor faces as opposed to right on the inboard face). If you're planning to track your car you might want to look into fabricating some ducts at the hose exit to avoid the condition Howard experienced.
This past weekend I completed the following items:
1) Fabricated diagonal wing bracing (prevent lateral sway).
2) Created the buck for my overhead console.
3) Studying the air box fit the rear clamshell.
4) Created the pattern for my wing end plates.
Last night I fitted up the airbox and measured clearance to the rear clamshell. I need to cut down the airbox approximately 2 1/2 inches and then weld up the risers with dzus fasteners to connect it to the spider frame extensions that I've created. I plan to create a fiberglass enclosure that connects the air inlet ducts on the rear clamshell and funnels air into the airbox.