Brake Light Switch

[Mitch Krause]

Hello,

Does anyone have some pictures (search can't find any), or recommendations for a brake light switch. I am inclined to go with a manual switch based on various reading. Thought about microswitch, that would maybe have some clearance issues and be in the way on the floor mounted pedals (wires coming out towards the driver), looked at the arm type, looked at the spring activated ones, just not sure what might work well and best.

Anyone have advice (and especially some pictures).

 

[Tim Terry]

Hi, Mitch. Many people use a brake pressure switch, which closes when it senses pressure increase in the line. They been around for a long time. Example: Speedway Brake Line Port Pressure Switch, 1/8 NPT

 

[Tom]

Mitch,
I was under the impression that the hydraulic switch came with the kit. I have one of these (Painless?) hydraulic brake switch connected to a brake Tee fitting. Simple and works great.

As for a microswitch, I have one mounted to the back of the pedal assy (clutch pedal) so you have to depress the clutch to start the motor.

 

[Walter Williams]

Mine is a pressure switch and it works fine

 

[Mitch Krause]

I was under the impression that one should steer away from the pressure switches as they were unreliable and then having to re-bleed the system to change them out. Maybe they are not as bad as I was reading about.

I don't think one came with my system (or I have not found it), of course this one was a early version, so maybe not.

Tom, I can see how the clutch micro-switch might work easily on the floor mount (depress to close the switch), I was thinking about more problems with the brake where you really want it to open when the brake is depressed, with means it has to be on the side towards the driver, unless you have some complicated arrangement of springs. Having it towards the driver then seemed clumsy.

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

Use a genuine Ford switch and you will have no issues! C1AZ-13480-A or Motorcraft SW-24. These handle pressure

 

[Bill Kearley]

Or incorporate an old style mechanical, external switch used on late sixties and early seventies Ford cars and trucks. I goes on the end of the push rod.

 

[Howard Jones]

I used one like this. I mounted it on a little bracket on the peddle box so that when your foot in off the brake peddle the switch is held off. As you press the peddle the switch is moved to the normally closed position and lights the lights.

Two reasons I like these, first you don't need to open the brake fluid system to change it, and second it can be replaced without effecting any other parts. I have a couple extras, one in the glove box of my two vehicle in case the brake light go out at the track.

If you use a micro switch or a slightly bigger one like this one, check the current rating. As you can see this one is 15 amp @ 115 volts. It will last just about forever at 12vdc and less than a half of a amp with LED brake lights.

I think it meant to be used as a crane limit switch inside the motor controller.

Really a fool proof way to do it, if you make your bracket nice a robust.

OMRON Snap Switch,15A,SPDT,Hinge Lever - 6X284'|'Z-15GW-B7-K - Grainger

 

[Mitch Krause]

Howard,

Very ingenious arrangement to get the switch to work. Thanks loads for the picture, that certainly helped me to picture how one might make things work without having stuff in front of the pedal.

Mitch