Build Diary - RCR Lola T70 Spider
- Thread starter Ron Earp
- Start date
Ron Earp
Admin
Here is the hp/tq plots. Not bad. from 2600 to 5000 RPM we have over 250 ft lbs of wheel torque available. And, that torque converts to 200+ hp from 3800 to 5800 RPM. All in all I'd say a very tractable and drivable curve.
Previously, we only tested with about 200-210 rwhp available so I hope the added hp pays off with decreased lap times. We're into the upper end of how much hp we'd like to have going into the preps for the 13 hr. Too much hp drinks too much gas.
Previously, we only tested with about 200-210 rwhp available so I hope the added hp pays off with decreased lap times. We're into the upper end of how much hp we'd like to have going into the preps for the 13 hr. Too much hp drinks too much gas.
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Ron Earp
Admin
We have made great progress since Friday - two days with 28 man hours of time in will do that!
We now have the car re-aligned to specs that we think will improve performance of the car. As most of you guys know, aligning these sorts of cars at home with all the possible adjustments you can make takes a lot of time. It is no wonder that race shops will routinely charge four figure sums for setup and alignment. Here is what we're rolling with for the next test session:
Ride Height:
4 5/8" Rear, 4 1/4" front
Camber:
-1/2 degree rear (down from -1.5), -3/4 degree front (down from -1.5)
Caster:
6.4 degrees rear, 5.5/5.2 degrees Lfront, Rfront (not quite equal, but up at least 1 degree per side)
Total Toe:
0.10" rear; 0.050" each side
0.0625" front
Besides the alignment we installed the oil cooler fan, a switch to turn off the transaxle pump, a rear louver for heat removal, relocated the pedal box for driver comfort, and a few other odds and ends. Very productive and quite efficient.
Here are a few pictures of the progress.
OH! And we found out that the throttle wasn't 100% open on the dyno runs from Friday, more like 80% open. So back to the dyno.
We now have the car re-aligned to specs that we think will improve performance of the car. As most of you guys know, aligning these sorts of cars at home with all the possible adjustments you can make takes a lot of time. It is no wonder that race shops will routinely charge four figure sums for setup and alignment. Here is what we're rolling with for the next test session:
Ride Height:
4 5/8" Rear, 4 1/4" front
Camber:
-1/2 degree rear (down from -1.5), -3/4 degree front (down from -1.5)
Caster:
6.4 degrees rear, 5.5/5.2 degrees Lfront, Rfront (not quite equal, but up at least 1 degree per side)
Total Toe:
0.10" rear; 0.050" each side
0.0625" front
Besides the alignment we installed the oil cooler fan, a switch to turn off the transaxle pump, a rear louver for heat removal, relocated the pedal box for driver comfort, and a few other odds and ends. Very productive and quite efficient.
Here are a few pictures of the progress.
OH! And we found out that the throttle wasn't 100% open on the dyno runs from Friday, more like 80% open. So back to the dyno.
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OK. We are now taking bets on the revised HP, torque.
that seems a lot of caster Ron, do you run a lot for a specific reason?
i set my own up with a lot of help from my friend who understands it a lot better than i do, very very time consuming but also good fun to learn. my settings are very similar to yours in ride height, camber, toe etc but i have only got about 4.5 degrees of caster in there if i remember. what is the advantage to more caster (self centering or turn in?)
regards
chris
i set my own up with a lot of help from my friend who understands it a lot better than i do, very very time consuming but also good fun to learn. my settings are very similar to yours in ride height, camber, toe etc but i have only got about 4.5 degrees of caster in there if i remember. what is the advantage to more caster (self centering or turn in?)
regards
chris
Ron Earp
Admin
Hey Chris,
As far as I know that is correct, more self centering and more straight line stability. You can do that in excess and then get the steering feel too heavy, but after driving the car this morning I think the change was right on. Straight line stability is, in my opinion, improved and that is a welcome change. We're trying to make the car easy on the drivers because the enduro driving stints are long and hard on the drivers. Steering feel is extremely good so if we made it heavier I can't tell the difference.
Speaking of which, Jeff came by and spent some time in the car and we've ordered up a new seat for it. The car is just not that comfortable and we have known for quite some time that we needed to do something about that. As Carol Smith said, "If your race car isn't the most comfortable car you drive then someone is doing it wrong". We don't want to be doing it wrong. The basic issue is that the lower part of our current seat doesn't grip your thighs and offers no support under the knee. Hopefully we can address the problems with a new seat and improve driver comfort.
R
As far as I know that is correct, more self centering and more straight line stability. You can do that in excess and then get the steering feel too heavy, but after driving the car this morning I think the change was right on. Straight line stability is, in my opinion, improved and that is a welcome change. We're trying to make the car easy on the drivers because the enduro driving stints are long and hard on the drivers. Steering feel is extremely good so if we made it heavier I can't tell the difference.
Speaking of which, Jeff came by and spent some time in the car and we've ordered up a new seat for it. The car is just not that comfortable and we have known for quite some time that we needed to do something about that. As Carol Smith said, "If your race car isn't the most comfortable car you drive then someone is doing it wrong". We don't want to be doing it wrong. The basic issue is that the lower part of our current seat doesn't grip your thighs and offers no support under the knee. Hopefully we can address the problems with a new seat and improve driver comfort.
R
Totally go with your driver comfort thing Ron. I have been playing around a lot with my current build to get this right. As the group of likely drivers for my car here is quite diverse in shape I am thinking that whilst the seat back is ideal for virtually all, the bum and leg support is individual so planning on making individual seat cushions from moulding foam which will give the right support to each driver and takes seconds to put in and out in driver swaps. I was once told that getting the legs to pedals bit right is more important than the steering position for the arms (but not that getting the steering position right is unimportant!).
When is 13 hours this year? And did you get affected by the hurricane recently? It was reported on our news here that NC was to get walloped by it.
When is 13 hours this year? And did you get affected by the hurricane recently? It was reported on our news here that NC was to get walloped by it.
Jeff Young
GT40s Supporter
Car drives a lot better, and is much more comfortable -- other than the seat, which we are fixing.
Malcolm, good ot hear from you. 13 Hours is always the last weekend in October.
Hurricane mostly missed us, fortunately....
Malcolm, good ot hear from you. 13 Hours is always the last weekend in October.
Hurricane mostly missed us, fortunately....
Hi Jeff
Every decision I make on my build also has to get by "will this be allowed by SCCA?" as I am sorely tempted to bring it over and chase you guys about for a bit! I miss not coming over.....
Was talking to Paul today about your car and we agree it is coming on nicely. Bit heavy but nice.
Glad hurricane missed you guys.
Every decision I make on my build also has to get by "will this be allowed by SCCA?" as I am sorely tempted to bring it over and chase you guys about for a bit! I miss not coming over.....
Was talking to Paul today about your car and we agree it is coming on nicely. Bit heavy but nice.
Glad hurricane missed you guys.
Ron Earp
Admin
Hey Malcolm,
You’ve got to bring that light weight Miata over for 2011. You’ve done a nice job with it. I bet your car should be very fast and quite capable of winning the 13 hour, very capable indeed. BTW, how is it coming along, do you have recent pictures? Post them up. I remember paint pictures, and Glenn said that it is bright, is the engine in yet?
Thanks for the kudos. Our T70 comes in at 2154 lbs without the driver but full fuel at 24-25 gallons. We could easily shave 200+ lbs off the car: aluminum wheels, aluminum block, light flywheel, remove one fire system, remove 2nd complete ignition system, fewer gauges, smaller cell, cage backing plates, and those are the easy “big” things. If we put as much attention to detail as you have done with the Miata I bet we could knock off another 40-60 lbs with thinner access panels, light weight body work, cutting bits off bolts, using lighter hardware, and so on. I suspect a 1900 lb car is possible, but she is coming along well as is so we’ll stick with what we have.
R
You’ve got to bring that light weight Miata over for 2011. You’ve done a nice job with it. I bet your car should be very fast and quite capable of winning the 13 hour, very capable indeed. BTW, how is it coming along, do you have recent pictures? Post them up. I remember paint pictures, and Glenn said that it is bright, is the engine in yet?
Thanks for the kudos. Our T70 comes in at 2154 lbs without the driver but full fuel at 24-25 gallons. We could easily shave 200+ lbs off the car: aluminum wheels, aluminum block, light flywheel, remove one fire system, remove 2nd complete ignition system, fewer gauges, smaller cell, cage backing plates, and those are the easy “big” things. If we put as much attention to detail as you have done with the Miata I bet we could knock off another 40-60 lbs with thinner access panels, light weight body work, cutting bits off bolts, using lighter hardware, and so on. I suspect a 1900 lb car is possible, but she is coming along well as is so we’ll stick with what we have.
R
Ron Earp
Admin
In between Sydney's soccer, lunch, gym, and some shooting I managed to install this access panel in the firewall. The timing was impossible to check due to access and simple checks with hoses and the belt were extremely difficult as well. This little access panel is sold under a variety of names and is well done for the price, around $25-28. I mounted it so the panel will fold down and the access to the front of the engine is fantastic. You could make one with scraps for nothing, but it was convenient to get the package.
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Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
...and the most important question of all: where do I get one?
Ron Earp
Admin
Hey Alan,
I used this one on the external hatch on the rear clip:
SMALL ACCESS DOOR KIT - C73-490 at The Chassis Shop
It is very well done and extremely high quality.
The timing door you can get from Jegs, Summit and so on. I bought it a few years ago and had it sitting around. Here it is but it has gone up in price:
Moroso 85700 Moroso Access Door
It isn't as high a quality but is large and works well. Surface mount all the way on this one, while the Chassis Shop piece is meant to sandwich your firewall or body. Chassis shop piece looks a lot better if that means anything.
I used this one on the external hatch on the rear clip:
SMALL ACCESS DOOR KIT - C73-490 at The Chassis Shop
It is very well done and extremely high quality.
The timing door you can get from Jegs, Summit and so on. I bought it a few years ago and had it sitting around. Here it is but it has gone up in price:
Moroso 85700 Moroso Access Door
It isn't as high a quality but is large and works well. Surface mount all the way on this one, while the Chassis Shop piece is meant to sandwich your firewall or body. Chassis shop piece looks a lot better if that means anything.
Keith, are you retired by any chance? Lots of time on your hands?
Keith, mate, I'm sorry that you have to trail an oxygen bottle around. At least you have your dark sense of humour.
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