Building a RCR GT40
- Thread starter Chet Zerlin
- Start date
They do build a quality engine, I had a stroked FE built by Keith when he still owned it. Hope it all works out.
Chet Zerlin
Supporter
Kyle, I think I’ll be involved with this build for a minimum of a year….probably more.
I should add that I’m usually an optimist.
Jim, yes they have an excellent reputation which is why I’m ok with the wait.
Chet
I should add that I’m usually an optimist.
Jim, yes they have an excellent reputation which is why I’m ok with the wait.
Chet
Nope. Ford, GM, Mopar, ricer, etc. All are short on major parts to build engines. Look at it like this, if you sell steel cam blanks do you supply a custom cam grinder that buys 500 a year or an OEM that buys 500,000?
Chet Zerlin
Supporter
Today I was able to get the front and rear clips upstairs for storage. I then began the process of removing the doors which turned out to be a lot tougher than I had thought. RCR had hung both doors for me but had put the bottom bolts in head down (meaning after removing the lock nut from the inside of the door I could not get the bottom bolt out).
I ended up having the remove the hinges from the chassis with the door attached and then I was able to remove that lower bolt and free the doors from the hinges. Many thanks to Chuck for his suggestion that I outline the hinges as much as possible with a sharpie before removing them so I was able to reattach them very close to where they were originally. All in all what should have been a 1/2 job turned into about a two hour "experience".
With the bodywork (except for the spyder) removed, I took the chassis off the rolling wheel dollies and put it onto jack stands. I then removed the tires/wheels in preparation for the next stage of the build (those rear tires are BIG!). Despite the frustration of the door removal I continue to be very impressed with the quality of the chassis. The welds are beautiful and the strength of the chassis is amazing.
I bought a Porsche G50/03 transaxle from Fran when I ordered the car and it came mounted in the chassis.
I'm not very familiar with this transmission so I'm beginning a steep learning curve while I'm waiting for the engine. I'm told that California Motorsports, Inc. (apparently located in Arizona...) is a good place to start asking questions.
Meanwhile, is there anyone on this forum that has this same transmission? If so I'd love to hear from you.
To be continued.....
Chet
I ended up having the remove the hinges from the chassis with the door attached and then I was able to remove that lower bolt and free the doors from the hinges. Many thanks to Chuck for his suggestion that I outline the hinges as much as possible with a sharpie before removing them so I was able to reattach them very close to where they were originally. All in all what should have been a 1/2 job turned into about a two hour "experience".
With the bodywork (except for the spyder) removed, I took the chassis off the rolling wheel dollies and put it onto jack stands. I then removed the tires/wheels in preparation for the next stage of the build (those rear tires are BIG!). Despite the frustration of the door removal I continue to be very impressed with the quality of the chassis. The welds are beautiful and the strength of the chassis is amazing.
I bought a Porsche G50/03 transaxle from Fran when I ordered the car and it came mounted in the chassis.
I'm not very familiar with this transmission so I'm beginning a steep learning curve while I'm waiting for the engine. I'm told that California Motorsports, Inc. (apparently located in Arizona...
) is a good place to start asking questions.Meanwhile, is there anyone on this forum that has this same transmission? If so I'd love to hear from you.
To be continued.....
Chet
Neil
Supporter
Chet, I run a Porsche G50-01 in my car (not a GT40). You're right that California Motorsports is located in AZ- in Lake Havasu City. They are, in my opinion, the best source of information, parts, and service on Porsche transaxles.
californiamotorsports.net
PORSCHE G50 5 SPEED TRANSAXLE SPECIFICATIONS
Type: G50/00, G50/01, G50/02 Original equipment for: Porsche 911 Carrera 1987-1989 Description: H Pattern 5 speed manual transaxle with Borg Warner single cone synchromesh and synchronized reverse Limited Slip Differential: 40% LSD optional equipment Weight (approx): 146lbs Oil Capacity...
californiamotorsports.net
Davidmgbv8
Supporter
Took 3 months to get my Comp cam for my 302 build, ordered beginning of may and got 2 weeks ago
Chet Zerlin
Supporter
Perfect solution. Also recommended by Chuck in his excellent build details. Definitely will do when reinstalling them!
Chet Zerlin
Supporter
My car came with the fuel tanks located inside the side pods with a cover already tapped and threaded. Lots of time and work saved as a result! (Thanks Fran!)
I began the process of removing the front suspension to get the tanks out to begin their installation. Started on the driver's side and had a little difficulty freeing up the bottom ball joint but a little penetrating oil quickly solved that issue. Very impressed with the quality of the RCR suspension pieces!
Driver's side suspension mostly removed and fuel tank ready to take out. I'll remove the lower control arm next.
I unpacked the box with the brake and clutch plumbing. Comparing it to the picture in the online manual revealed that I was missing one small pipe and one long one (I think it's for the clutch).
I've got an email into Bill @ RCR for him to send me whatever I'm missing. He's been incredibly helpful (and patient) with me!
Hopefully the two long ones that I do have are correct for the rear brake lines so I can begin the install process while waiting for the missing items. Certainly don't need the clutch lines right now since I don't have an engine yet!
Planning on calling California Motorsports today to gain some knowledge about my G50/03 transmission.
Chet
I began the process of removing the front suspension to get the tanks out to begin their installation. Started on the driver's side and had a little difficulty freeing up the bottom ball joint but a little penetrating oil quickly solved that issue. Very impressed with the quality of the RCR suspension pieces!
Driver's side suspension mostly removed and fuel tank ready to take out. I'll remove the lower control arm next.
I unpacked the box with the brake and clutch plumbing. Comparing it to the picture in the online manual revealed that I was missing one small pipe and one long one (I think it's for the clutch).
I've got an email into Bill @ RCR for him to send me whatever I'm missing. He's been incredibly helpful (and patient) with me!
Hopefully the two long ones that I do have are correct for the rear brake lines so I can begin the install process while waiting for the missing items. Certainly don't need the clutch lines right now since I don't have an engine yet!
Planning on calling California Motorsports today to gain some knowledge about my G50/03 transmission.
Chet
I should have gone this route alsa.
I guess they put some large-radius 180 bends in them so they would fit inside the car for shipping and they just need to be straightened.
Chet Zerlin
Supporter
Bryan you are exactly correct - they put those bends in them to fit in to the box (even comes with two labels telling me where to bend them to straighten them out. However I am missing one of the long lines that goes to the rear brakes and one very short line that goes to the brake light switch. Bill will take care of getting them to me.
Chet Zerlin
Supporter
Removing the right front suspension was going great until I ran into a stuck lower ball joint. Could not get a clean "hit" on the top of the ball joint due to the way it is positioned. No matter what I tried I could not get it out. Fortunately a quick call to RCR got me to Butch who told me to position a small ball jack in between the upper and lower control arms and put them under pressure. Then a small tap on the lower control arm would free it. Following his advice I was able to free it - sure helps to know what you are doing! I'm ordering new ball joints as replacements since my "efforts" pretty much mangled the threads and top of the ball joint.
With that adventure behind me the removal of the right front suspension proceeded without incident.
Next up was removing the rack and pinion. At first I was a little stumped on how to get it off. However with help from Bryanf on this forum the solution was actually very easy. For others that might run into this here's how it is done.
First pull off the rubber boot covering the driver's side tie rod which reveals this:
Placing an open-ended wrench on it and unscrewing it will remove the tie rod from the shaft. There is an identical one on the passenger's side. Removing that one shortens the assembly enough so that after the 6 support bolts and spacers are removed it can easily be taken out of the chassis.
Next up will be the prep work on the fuel tanks. I had to shave a little off of the openings cut by RCR to make sure it was easy to push the tanks in and take them out. Once I install the fuel sender, vent and fuel pick up I might have to shave some more off just to make sure it will easily clear that opening. To secure the fuel tank once installed I'm leaning toward the rubber squares used by Chuck and Ryan in their build - in fact I had already ordered the exact material they used from McMaster-Carr several months ago in preparation.
I returned my fuel senders to Centroid Products to be shortened to 5.5" (tank depth is 6") and recalibrated to read 240/33 ohms to match the default settings on my Speedhut fuel gauges instead of 100/0. Hopefully I will get them back soon as I need them to continue the fuel tank install process.
Bryanf's build log contained the measurements for the fuel tanks and I verified that my tanks match his measurements exactly. Just another verification of the tolerances Fran and his crew achieve with their aluminum expertise.
Using those measurements I'm now considering how to cut an opening to provide access to the sender, vent and fuel pickup (with a suitable screw on cover). There's not a lot of room back there but having gone through what is necessary to remove the fuel tank (i.e. complete removal of the front suspension) I really don't want to have to do that should there be an issue with the fuel sender or a leak either from the fuel pickup or the vent. Adding to that difficulty would be having at least some fuel in the tank and making it heaver.
At this point I am considering two small round openings (over the vent and fuel pick up) and one large round opening to match the outside dimensions of the fuel sender.
This will take a lot of measurements (and re-measurements) to figure out - especially since there is no way to actually SEE through the aluminum and know exactly where those openings are in the fuel tank.
X ray vision would be really helpful right about now!
With that adventure behind me the removal of the right front suspension proceeded without incident.
Next up was removing the rack and pinion. At first I was a little stumped on how to get it off. However with help from Bryanf on this forum the solution was actually very easy. For others that might run into this here's how it is done.
First pull off the rubber boot covering the driver's side tie rod which reveals this:
Placing an open-ended wrench on it and unscrewing it will remove the tie rod from the shaft. There is an identical one on the passenger's side. Removing that one shortens the assembly enough so that after the 6 support bolts and spacers are removed it can easily be taken out of the chassis.
Next up will be the prep work on the fuel tanks. I had to shave a little off of the openings cut by RCR to make sure it was easy to push the tanks in and take them out. Once I install the fuel sender, vent and fuel pick up I might have to shave some more off just to make sure it will easily clear that opening. To secure the fuel tank once installed I'm leaning toward the rubber squares used by Chuck and Ryan in their build - in fact I had already ordered the exact material they used from McMaster-Carr several months ago in preparation.
I returned my fuel senders to Centroid Products to be shortened to 5.5" (tank depth is 6") and recalibrated to read 240/33 ohms to match the default settings on my Speedhut fuel gauges instead of 100/0. Hopefully I will get them back soon as I need them to continue the fuel tank install process.
Bryanf's build log contained the measurements for the fuel tanks and I verified that my tanks match his measurements exactly. Just another verification of the tolerances Fran and his crew achieve with their aluminum expertise.
Using those measurements I'm now considering how to cut an opening to provide access to the sender, vent and fuel pickup (with a suitable screw on cover). There's not a lot of room back there but having gone through what is necessary to remove the fuel tank (i.e. complete removal of the front suspension) I really don't want to have to do that should there be an issue with the fuel sender or a leak either from the fuel pickup or the vent. Adding to that difficulty would be having at least some fuel in the tank and making it heaver.
At this point I am considering two small round openings (over the vent and fuel pick up) and one large round opening to match the outside dimensions of the fuel sender.
This will take a lot of measurements (and re-measurements) to figure out - especially since there is no way to actually SEE through the aluminum and know exactly where those openings are in the fuel tank.
X ray vision would be really helpful right about now!
You'll need one of those frogs in your toolbox. It makes live so much easyer.
The one as show in the pic as its fully adjustable, works on any... It will throw ball joints in seconds without damage.
I never ever use a hammer on ball joints.
The one as show in the pic as its fully adjustable, works on any... It will throw ball joints in seconds without damage.
I never ever use a hammer on ball joints.
Darn. I'm too late.
No need to remove the ball joints on the front suspension.
Just removed the brake rotor and the shock. Then remove the four bolts holding the upper and lower control arm and take that suspension off as a unit. That will give you access to the fuel tank front panels.
Sorry
Chuck
No need to remove the ball joints on the front suspension.
Just removed the brake rotor and the shock. Then remove the four bolts holding the upper and lower control arm and take that suspension off as a unit. That will give you access to the fuel tank front panels.
Sorry
Chuck
Regarding covering the fuel tank access points fore and aft, consider cutting square openings in the chassis over the fuel filler on the front and fuel pick up / gauge sender on the rear. Make them big enough to provide good access and another location where tank tie downs can be secured. Then cover the openings with a piece of thin aluminum or fiberglass (my preference) with small holes to clear the lines passing through. Details on my build blog post oh so many years ago.
Consider adding more bolts to the front securing the plate in front of the fuel tank. In a front end impact that plate is the last thing holding the tank inside the car. Tapping and threading is straight forward, or use nutserts. If doing it today I would consider nut plates but that may be a bit over the top.
Consider adding more bolts to the front securing the plate in front of the fuel tank. In a front end impact that plate is the last thing holding the tank inside the car. Tapping and threading is straight forward, or use nutserts. If doing it today I would consider nut plates but that may be a bit over the top.
Chet Zerlin
Supporter
Good ideas - thanks Chuck!
