Cam change

Hmm, what kind of 'eads and induction?

Might that be a classic BOSS 302?

Anyway, impressive but must 'ave 'ad big 'eads and a reely strong valve set up.

Sorry, but my Sahf London accent keeps on slippin' aht.

Twas a 302 with 11.5 comp on worked AFR 185 heads with a silly cam and on ITB`s , probably not the best street engine but more than usable for a mix of track day and street.

Bob
 
Hay Jack looks like things are moving along. One thing I found that makes what I have more livable (for me) was keeping the compression ratio around 10:1 and hyd lifters. The first lets you run on pump gas and the other thing allows you to keep you hearing. Don't get me wrong I used to run a 260 in a 65 Falcon on the street with 5.14 gears and it would pull hard to 8K rpm. Exciting but I'm not 19 years old. I built the engine in my Shelby as if I was and as you know I didn't drive it.

What amazes me is that with only 331ci and a 680cfm carb my motor makes almost 450HP and has enough torque to keep life interesting.

What was that Jack I didn't hear you. Did I ever tell you about a Falcon I used to drag race.......lol. I didn't say I was trying to keep my own hearing, a fuel dragster took that from me years ago.
 
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Jack Houpe

GT40s Supporter
Hey buddy, this has been a real brain teaser for me, I hate to tear down a perfectly good motor and start over, its like cutting the toes off an Olympic runner, this would be great motor for show car or 4000 lb street rod or truck. I really like the all aluminum, sure is pretty to look at.

Well your motor is smooth as silk and just what I am looking for your finial gear makes a big difference also.
 
A well built 302 will never have to shy away from a gunfight. Bench racing doesn't win you any races but Traction will and keeping your foot on the floor with 400-450 HP will keep your attention and allow you to focus on your driving skills instead of your tire budget. This is a 289 soon to be replaced with a long rod (5.40) and a Boss 302 crank. Looking for about 7400 max RPM and about 450 HP. LOts of nice pieces on tap.
P8090244.JPG
 

Jack Houpe

GT40s Supporter
A well built 302 will never have to shy away from a gunfight. Bench racing doesn't win you any races but Traction will and keeping your foot on the floor with 400-450 HP will keep your attention and allow you to focus on your driving skills instead of your tire budget. This is a 289 soon to be replaced with a long rod (5.40) and a Boss 302 crank. Looking for about 7400 max RPM and about 450 HP. LOts of nice pieces on tap.
P8090244.JPG

No truer words have been spoken.
 

Jack Houpe

GT40s Supporter
My wife and I are going to drive a 575 Maranello and the 612 scag, if they don't ring my bell, I'm coming home and swapping engines to small block and change out that pressure plate to the correct one, Richard from Idaho said he would fly in and help, Olthoff has the headers. Driving the above 2 cars will be my final decision.
 

Mike

Lifetime Supporter
Jack, I grow restless with cars as quick as anyone I know. My experience has been that as my eyes wonder, I always find myself back in the garage with the GT40 and concluding that there are few cars out there that can match the simplicity in design, the raw beauty, and the way you feel when you slide in behind the wheel. Go out and have your fling with whatever you think has caught your eye. Then start looking under the covers and you'll realize I predict the grass is rarely greener on the other side of the fence :)
 
Now I may have to make good on my promise? Did I mention my shiping, setup and delivery fees? lol Whatever works for you. In any case you'll have plenty of people to support your habit.
 
Jack, I grow restless with cars as quick as anyone I know. My experience has been that as my eyes wonder, I always find myself back in the garage with the GT40 and concluding that there are few cars out there that can match the simplicity in design, the raw beauty, and the way you feel when you slide in behind the wheel. Go out and have your fling with whatever you think has caught your eye. Then start looking under the covers and you'll realize I predict the grass is rarely greener on the other side of the fence :)

Truth!
 
Jack, I just don't get it. You've got a perfectly good motor and you want to tone it down an bit. So as mentioned, it's easy and cheap!

1) Throttle linkages. Make them more progressive and limit the throttle opening! That will limit power and torque right away and is easy and free! My car was very difficult to drive with the original non-progressive throttle linkage. Much better now with progresive D type cable drum.
Even better, consider adapting an electronic instead of cable throttle. Then you can program whatever throttle curve you like into it. More throttle, opening more aggressively in the higher gears if you like. It's just simple electronics and you won't have to change a thing about your car and perfectly good motor!
2) Play with the tune in the ECU. Simple to retard the timing a bit here and there to knock out some torque. OEM ecu's do this all the time as part of knock mitigation and traction control strategies.
3) Smaller cam if you want. So put cam with 220 - 230 duration and a lot less lift, somewhere around 500 thou lift and maybe hydraulic roller since you don't rev it. That will tone it down (less lift will kill off your torque, despite the lesser duration). I've just put a cam very similar to yours in my 347. Solid roller, 668 thou lift and 257/265 duration at 50 thou. Similar induction setup to yours (DC&O throttle bodies). I wanted more power (racing). Went 443 RWHP at 6800 on Dynojet. Happy with that, but it does not have the monster torque that your 427 does of course.

But really - go with option 2 first (simple) then option 1 (little more complicated -unless you go a simple adjustable throttle stop - I have one under my accel pedal) before spending a lot of time and efffort to change something that ain't broke! Its' easy to go slower...wish it were easy to go faster!
 

Jack Houpe

GT40s Supporter
Jack, I just don't get it. You've got a perfectly good motor and you want to tone it down an bit. So as mentioned, it's easy and cheap!

1) Throttle linkages. Make them more progressive and limit the throttle opening! That will limit power and torque right away and is easy and free! My car was very difficult to drive with the original non-progressive throttle linkage. Much better now with progresive D type cable drum.
Even better, consider adapting an electronic instead of cable throttle. Then you can program whatever throttle curve you like into it. More throttle, opening more aggressively in the higher gears if you like. It's just simple electronics and you won't have to change a thing about your car and perfectly good motor!
2) Play with the tune in the ECU. Simple to retard the timing a bit here and there to knock out some torque. OEM ecu's do this all the time as part of knock mitigation and traction control strategies.
3) Smaller cam if you want. So put cam with 220 - 230 duration and a lot less lift, somewhere around 500 thou lift and maybe hydraulic roller since you don't rev it. That will tone it down (less lift will kill off your torque, despite the lesser duration). I've just put a cam very similar to yours in my 347. Solid roller, 668 thou lift and 257/265 duration at 50 thou. Similar induction setup to yours (DC&O throttle bodies). I wanted more power (racing). Went 443 RWHP at 6800 on Dynojet. Happy with that, but it does not have the monster torque that your 427 does of course.

But really - go with option 2 first (simple) then option 1 (little more complicated -unless you go a simple adjustable throttle stop - I have one under my accel pedal) before spending a lot of time and efffort to change something that ain't broke! Its' easy to go slower...wish it were easy to go faster!
I've tried detuning the engine, even at 14 degrees timing across the chart it still has to much grunt at 2800 rpm. As for throttle restrictor plates or backing off on the foot feed cable, I think that would be pretty difficult to come up with a happy medium where your not to much restricted, remember there are 8 throttle plates, very little movement cause a lot of air flow, with one throttle plate that might be possible. If I still have the car this summer, the motor is coming out and a 302 in going in, right now I think ready for a change to a 575 or a 612 Ferrari. The long and short of it is to many cubic inches = to much torque with a 4:22 ring and pinion for such a light car, add 1000 lbs it might be tolerable.

One of my oldest friends here in AR is a attorney and been my attorney for 30 years, he and his wife came over this last weekend for a dollar ride as I told him I was going to sell it and they wanted a ride before it was gone. After his ride he told me in his attorney voice "sell the f----- thing before you kill yourself, we are to old for this sh--" I sort of chuckled, as I knew it was coming.
 
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One of my oldest friends here in AR is a attorney and been my attorney for 30 years, he and his wife came over this last weekend for a dollar ride as I told him I was going to sell it and they wanted a ride before it was gone. After his ride he told me in his attorney voice "sell the f----- thing before you kill yourself, we are to old for this sh--" I sort of chuckled, as I knew it was coming.[/QUOTE]

Jack, I think you just found your advertisment for its (possible) upcoming sale!! We all know people who are looking for this exact effect and ride. I got a chuckle reading it. Thanks.
 
One of my oldest friends here in AR is a attorney and been my attorney for 30 years, he and his wife came over this last weekend for a dollar ride as I told him I was going to sell it and they wanted a ride before it was gone. After his ride he told me in his attorney voice "sell the f----- thing before you kill yourself, we are to old for this sh--" I sort of chuckled, as I knew it was coming.

Jack, I think you just found your advertisment for its (possible) upcoming sale!! We all know people who are looking for this exact effect and ride. I got a chuckle reading it. Thanks.
 

Jack Houpe

GT40s Supporter
Jack, I think you just found your advertisment for its (possible) upcoming sale!! We all know people who are looking for this exact effect and ride. I got a chuckle reading it. Thanks.

Jimmy he also asked me after his rather direct comment "when was the last time we updated your trust?" Makes a guy start thinking......:shocked:
 
Wow, that's a big freakin' cam. I'm surprised a cam was spec'd with lobe separation that low for a Weber setup. Webers usually need 110 degrees at least. Did it spit like crazy? That cam is actually for oval course 1/2 mile racing with an RPM range of 5800-7800. If you're rev limiting at 6500 you're barely getting into the area where this cam works. Since your power is dropping off at 6k I will bet the heads aren't built for high flow at high rpm but rather more for torque (you have a broad torque curve that comes in very low). This probably means your heads and cam are a poor match. I think you're right that you can do far better with just a cam change. It might be worth talking with a comp cams camshaft specialist to spec a cam for exactly what you're looking for. When I spec'd mine they requested gearing, weight, use (some road course but still streetable for me), as well as all of the details about the engine. You should be able to knock 100hp and nearly that much torque off, keep a broad torque range as long as your valves/runners aren't too big. Based on the fact your power drops off before the cam gets into it's power range I'd bet your heads aren't too big and this can be accomplished along with improved idle and streetability.

If that doesn't work, next up would be the gearing...

+1....


Steve is right on here! That cam should be a nightmare on the street. Go with a mild cam with 112 lobe sep or there about with .570ish lift and hydro rockers and you will have a much better experience on the road and it will still be a blast on the track. Any good tuner can knock a bit of torque out down low with timing but I don't think that's your problem. That is as racing cam and not designed for the street.


If it's still jumpy on the street look at your throttle motion ratio and consider putting a cam on it to temper off idle throttle.

David
 
I've read some of the knowledgeable engine builders say with the itb's like the webers one can use a 'bigger' cam, the cylinders are isolated so the reversion doesn't come into play as with a common plenum.
 
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