CANAMSA - SA stratch build
- Thread starter Fred W B
- Start date
Hi guys, thanks for responses.
Greg, red car looks nice! Is that the same car that was running in the "Walls" white with red strips livery, or another one? I might look you guys up when the time comes to source proper wheels for my car, if I may?
Molleur, what you suggest would have been easier than what I did.
Cheers
Fred W B
Greg, red car looks nice! Is that the same car that was running in the "Walls" white with red strips livery, or another one? I might look you guys up when the time comes to source proper wheels for my car, if I may?
Molleur, what you suggest would have been easier than what I did.
Cheers
Fred W B
So after yet more polishing (the lead light is in order to see wax streaks left on the surface), tailoring of matt pieces and the consumption of yet another 25 kg bucket of resin the LH and RH sides of the tail mold are up to full thickness, and I can now get on with the transom panel section.
Cheers
Fred W B
Cheers
Fred W B
Looking good Fred, nearly there!!!!!
Thanks for the comments guys. Hugh we have been in touch, good luck with your project.
I have now completed the transom panel mould section. Also added bracing to it and to the side sections.
I have now completed the transom panel mould section. Also added bracing to it and to the side sections.
and released the first side section. It came off easily enough.
I have to take these off now to get the parting fences off, before I put them back on and can carry on with the final piece of the tail mould, the top section.
Cheers
Fred W B
I have to take these off now to get the parting fences off, before I put them back on and can carry on with the final piece of the tail mould, the top section.
Cheers
Fred W B
Hello
I read twice your built thread and have to congratulate for your extrem skill in master and molding ; if I may give some advise ( after 40 years of doing tons of these moulds !) your molds are really superb and green gelcoat surface seems to be so neat !! but be aware in using wood as you did for rinforces ,
after some months you will watch on the surface mold at each level of these wood rinforces some slight deformations so parts molded in will copy these !
From what I can watch of the thickness you laminated ( 7 may be 8 mm ?) you are luky this will not occur ! in lighter mold say 5 mm rinforces are done in foam and bonded with epoxy stuff not to impact gelcoat finish of mold .
Otherwise you are doing a superb project and I just have to congratulate again and say ;
Bravo et bon courage !!
I read twice your built thread and have to congratulate for your extrem skill in master and molding ; if I may give some advise ( after 40 years of doing tons of these moulds !) your molds are really superb and green gelcoat surface seems to be so neat !! but be aware in using wood as you did for rinforces ,
after some months you will watch on the surface mold at each level of these wood rinforces some slight deformations so parts molded in will copy these !
From what I can watch of the thickness you laminated ( 7 may be 8 mm ?) you are luky this will not occur ! in lighter mold say 5 mm rinforces are done in foam and bonded with epoxy stuff not to impact gelcoat finish of mold .
Otherwise you are doing a superb project and I just have to congratulate again and say ;
Bravo et bon courage !!
Hi Mic
Thanks for your comment and the kind compliments.
As for the bracing I am hoping that as:
- I built the mould thicknesses up over a period of weeks before putting the wood on later
- The wood is bonded on with a single layer of matt
- The mould thicknesses are 6 to 7 mm
- I don't plan to make many parts
I will get away without "print through".
Certainly the door moulds I made over a year ago seem to look fine so far.
Without the bracing I am nervous to put the big mould sections down so that only a few points are taking the load of the whole mould. The bracing does make it easier to handle the moulds, and makes them sit stable to work with them.
Cheers
Fred W B
Thanks for your comment and the kind compliments.
As for the bracing I am hoping that as:
- I built the mould thicknesses up over a period of weeks before putting the wood on later
- The wood is bonded on with a single layer of matt
- The mould thicknesses are 6 to 7 mm
- I don't plan to make many parts
I will get away without "print through".
Certainly the door moulds I made over a year ago seem to look fine so far.
Without the bracing I am nervous to put the big mould sections down so that only a few points are taking the load of the whole mould. The bracing does make it easier to handle the moulds, and makes them sit stable to work with them.
Cheers
Fred W B
Last edited:
I think the thickness you did is salvatory and you will not have any impact at all ; seems you did molds like a factory ! thick and strong so they could start in production run ( LOL)
Another point we never did when doing our mods in various prototype is to un mold any part before to have molded the whole master ( we where always afraid not to be able to apply correctly molds to the master and get some resin or gelcoat leaks in !!!
In your case I understand why you proceed like that and anyway you will have many molds to bolt again together so they will probably press well on the master ; be carefull otherwise to wax them in case of any bad leak in beetwen !!
Will follow now every update of your built
keep on updating !!! Thnaks !
Another point we never did when doing our mods in various prototype is to un mold any part before to have molded the whole master ( we where always afraid not to be able to apply correctly molds to the master and get some resin or gelcoat leaks in !!!
In your case I understand why you proceed like that and anyway you will have many molds to bolt again together so they will probably press well on the master ; be carefull otherwise to wax them in case of any bad leak in beetwen !!
Will follow now every update of your built
keep on updating !!! Thnaks !
Looking good Fred. In building boat molds it is common practice to "float" the wood structure a 1/2" or so off the mold shell joining wood to mold with an air gap bridged with fiberglass strips. This way there is no hard edge to print through or distort the mold but still gives plenty of support.
best regards, Doug
best regards, Doug
Thanks for the comment Doug and Mic
It's also been suggested that that can be done by using a strip of closed cell foam between the wood and the mold surface. I may well try that when it comes to putting bracing on the upper surface, it's a very big, almost flat area.
Cheers
Fred W B
It's also been suggested that that can be done by using a strip of closed cell foam between the wood and the mold surface. I may well try that when it comes to putting bracing on the upper surface, it's a very big, almost flat area.
Cheers
Fred W B
Thanks Mic
Knocked up an elevated walkway around the tail to make it easier to work on the upper surface.
Cheers
Fred W B
Knocked up an elevated walkway around the tail to make it easier to work on the upper surface.
Cheers
Fred W B
Yep !!
Very good idea !
when doing such molds in the past I noticed that it was much more convenient to spend some time in prep all stuff and working area ( all fiberglass ply ready cut , cups or resin allready calculated and with hardener measured in small glasscups etc etc)
Then when I started laminating I was only concerned on cathcing as many air bubble as possible !!!!!!and not hurying from the mold to table prepartion for more resin or anyelse !!
How is the weather now for you to laminate polyester ? There in France it's starting to be too "humid !!!
Very good idea !
when doing such molds in the past I noticed that it was much more convenient to spend some time in prep all stuff and working area ( all fiberglass ply ready cut , cups or resin allready calculated and with hardener measured in small glasscups etc etc)
Then when I started laminating I was only concerned on cathcing as many air bubble as possible !!!!!!and not hurying from the mold to table prepartion for more resin or anyelse !!
How is the weather now for you to laminate polyester ? There in France it's starting to be too "humid !!!
Hi Mic
Yes, I do carefully tailor and cut out all the matt pieces and have the correct amount of resin measured out in a series of containers before I start laying up a section. I weigh the resin and use a syringe to measure out the hardener, working with one "pot" at a time.
I could not do it singlehanded otherwise. I do have a friend who comes round to help on the biggest bits.
As for the weather, its supposed to be spring here but we have been having some cold (15 to 20 deg C) and much rain lately. It will soon be hot though (25 deg +). I go down to 0.75 percent hardener when it is.
Cheers
Fred W B
Yes, I do carefully tailor and cut out all the matt pieces and have the correct amount of resin measured out in a series of containers before I start laying up a section. I weigh the resin and use a syringe to measure out the hardener, working with one "pot" at a time.
I could not do it singlehanded otherwise. I do have a friend who comes round to help on the biggest bits.
As for the weather, its supposed to be spring here but we have been having some cold (15 to 20 deg C) and much rain lately. It will soon be hot though (25 deg +). I go down to 0.75 percent hardener when it is.
Cheers
Fred W B
Sounds ok for the weather !!
If you do not want to add more wood rinforces on that so big flat area you can use "Coremat " it is like a carpet 5 mm thick and gives you like acore after laminating 5 ply of matt 450 gr you apply this in stripes of 400 mm large ( 3 needed o your surfaces and then cover again with 2 matt 450 gr .
I have used also on flat areas garden rubber hose to simulate many "omegas" ( one each 200 mm) covered with 4 ply of 450 or even 600 matt
This is much more rigid than any wood rinforce !
Otherwise good luck on your laminating ; canwait to see that beautifull mold un molded !!
If you do not want to add more wood rinforces on that so big flat area you can use "Coremat " it is like a carpet 5 mm thick and gives you like acore after laminating 5 ply of matt 450 gr you apply this in stripes of 400 mm large ( 3 needed o your surfaces and then cover again with 2 matt 450 gr .
I have used also on flat areas garden rubber hose to simulate many "omegas" ( one each 200 mm) covered with 4 ply of 450 or even 600 matt
This is much more rigid than any wood rinforce !
Otherwise good luck on your laminating ; canwait to see that beautifull mold un molded !!
Hey Fred, how are things getting along?
I have hope for good news soon!
Grtz thomas
I have hope for good news soon!
Grtz thomas
